Craft burgers, 'not dogs' and more: New Choo-Chew dining car on a roll in Somerset

SOMERSET — There's a new restaurant satisfying locals' cravings for creative comfort food in Somerset.

Things are chugging along at the recently opened Choo-Chew , which has brought new life to the iconic Route 6 railroad car following the closure of Missing Link BBQ in early August.

Choo-Chew owner Tom Lyon was one half of the former Missing Link team. After that partnership parted ways this summer, Lyon, a seasoned chef, took the driver's seat at the unique 938 Lees River Ave. restaurant space.

"I wanted to stay and I really enjoy the location," said Lyon, who served as pitmaster and creative force behind the food at the former Missing Link. "Everyone seemed to respond well to the product and seemed to like what I was doing, so I decided to jump off the dock with my own feet and see what I can do."

After what Lyon describes as a solid debut Sept. 4, it's full steam ahead as the "100% scratch" craft kitchen looks to make its own mark on the SouthCoast.

"I want it to be part of the community. I'd like it to be somewhere people know they can always go and get good, quality food that isn't over-processed and makes you feel good about yourself," Lyon said.

Lyon shared his vision for the train's next chapter, from what awaits folks who hop aboard now, to some exciting plans down the line.

'An unforgettable culinary journey': Somerset train sees new life as Choo-Chew craft kitchen. What to know.

What's new at the Somerset food train

As far as the interior, not too much has changed.

The train underwent a full months-long rebuild before Missing Link opened for dining aboard the train last fall, so Choo-Chew required only minor aesthetic changes — new curtains, decor, light fixtures to "bring a more industrial vibe to it" and soon a new exterior sign calling all local foodies.

"Before, it had the vibe of a roadhouse, now it feels more like a dining car," Lyon said.

There are six booths on the train, which accommodates roughly 32 diners. One noticeable change to the interior is the addition of a big communal table in the front of the train where "everyone can come together and meet your neighbor," Lyon said.

The patio remains open for dining for all who would like to eat outdoors, but is not currently full-service.

As far as food goes, Lyon's new craft kitchen concept allows him to mix things up a bit menu-wise.

"One thing I like about not being a barbecue place by name is I have a little bit more freedom. I'm not pigeonholed into one flavor profile," he said.

Choo-Chew still has a lot of the fan-favorite southern fare you could find at the former Missing Link, and more — a lot more.

"I just love cooking and I love barbecue. I think classic American barbecue and cooking very low and slow over wood is something that makes food taste dramatically different, dramatically better than any other way of cooking," he said.

Even though he's not doing all the barbecue he was doing before — stepping away from certain items such as ribs, half-chicken and sliced brisket and "leaning more into really quality craft burgers" — Lyon noted there is still a heavy smoked element to all of the dishes.

So far, Choo-Chew's unique craft burgers, made of 100% brisket meat that's ground in-house, have been a popular pick for patrons.

End of the line: Somerset's Missing Link BBQ closed its doors. Here's what to know.

People have also gravitated toward chicken wraps, such as their jerk chicken wrap that was a carryover from Missing Link, and his curious creations dubbed "Not Dogs."

"I take pulled pork, season it and dress it up, and it ends up tasting pretty darn close to a hot dog," Lyon said. Big buns are stuffed with Lyon's own spin on different flavors of hot dogs from around the country.

He also emphasized that Choo-Chew's fare is 100% scratch-made. "Other than the bread and the pasta, we're making everything here."

What's coming at Choo-Chew down the line

As Choo-Chew picks up steam, Lyon has plans to expand their operation down the road. That starts with the return of breakfast.

"Breakfast has a good following ... and this town is breakfast bananas, they love it, so I'm definitely working my tail off to bring breakfast back," Lyon said.

He's set a target date of Columbus Day, but hopes to introduce morning fare to the menu before then because, simply put, "I really want some pancakes," Lyon said.

By next spring and summer, he's also hoping to bring "full-blown barbecue" back with much-missed ribs, chicken and brisket offerings.

Other anticipated additions include meatballs, their own house-made sausage, and the eventual launch of a Tuesday Night Supper Club.

While Lyon is still ironing out how that would work, he envisions a prix fixe multi-course menu, serving up a "weekly mystery of whatever is gonna hit you — but it'll all be good and it'll all be filling and it'll all be fresh."

Catering will continue to be offered at the new restaurant, so folks who miss certain Missing Link  barbecue classics can find them on Choo-Chew's catering menu.

When can we visit Choo Chew?

Choo Chew serves lunch and dinner Wednesday through Sunday. Hours are 11 a.m. to 8 p.m. Wednesday through Saturday, and 11 a.m. to 6 p.m. on Sunday.

Lyon said he is excited for the train's new beginning.

"I want to grow this little train to be something special," he said. "I think this is a great location, and I think with the family fun center that's moving in down the street, this will give people more of an option while they're out and about."

This article originally appeared on The Herald News: Craft burgers, 'not dogs' and more: New Choo-Chew dining car on a roll in Somerset