India’s Diverse Regional Cuisine Gets A Classy Makeover

Diverse Indian cuisine in world-class settings

Indian restaurants in America tend to be very casual. Most have functional seating with service that leaves a lot to be desired. But when we visit the homeland, the restaurants there are lightyears ahead of ours. Unique, high-quality food and beverage experiences are the norm. Many of the newer places have crafted experiences; the tasting menus, presentation and service are top notch. So, in an era where Indian food in the U.S. is synonymous with butter chicken, two tech entrepreneurs-turned-restaurateurs, Vikram and Anu Bhambri, decided to change that and established the Good Times Restaurants group. They envisioned restaurants with opulent seating, world-class service, and food that showcased the rich diversity of Indian cuisine, spanning from Mumbai, Goa, Hyderabad, Gujarat and Kashmir.

“Our journey into the restaurant industry was born out of a shared passion for food and culture. Traveling around the world, we were constantly inspired by the diverse culinary experiences we encountered,” says Anu Bhambri. “We realized that we wanted to create something that would allow us to share the richness of Indian cuisine with a broader audience. The transition from tech to the restaurant world felt like a natural progression for us—a way to channel our love for innovation into a different realm, where we could make an impact by introducing new flavors and experiences,” she said. This is where they leverage their experience working for Microsoft; their websites are a work of art, with alluring food photos and customer testimonials, and deep dives into KPI’s and data on which dishes do well and which are poor performers that need replacing.

ROOH SF (and Palo Alto)

Their first venture was Rooh , which means “spirit” or “soul” in Hindi, and lives up to its name by capturing the essence of Indian cooking. It went on to earn a Michelin Guide recommended status in 2021, under chef Pujan Sarkar (who has now moved to Tiya ). The restaurant’s concept revolves around combining familiar Indian flavors with California’s fresh, seasonal ingredients to create innovative dishes.

Valice Francis, who worked at Indian Accent restaurants in New York and New Delhi, is now the new Executive Chef. This Purani Dilli boy has not forgotten his roots and his dadima’s soft melt- in-your-mouth kebabs are sublime. The small plates are exotic while retaining the flavor profile, which is reminiscent of home. We had the Garlic Chilli Crab, Masala Jackfruit tacos, and Andhra Kohlrabi. His chaats are super yummy too. ROOH’s craft cocktails are inspired by the Ayurvedic rasas of taste (sour, bitter, astringent, pungent, sweet). They offer a menu pinwheel that guides diners to choose flavor profiles that they love and pick their drinks accordingly. I gravitate towards sweet and had the Kumoan Swizzle (vodka, dom benedictine, lime, orange juice, fig jam).

FITOOR (Santana Row)

The Bhambri’s latest venture is Fitoor in Santana Row with a cool, clubby vibe. Divided into three sections, it transports you into three different realms: the front of the house with its inviting open-air façade, a slat ceiling and rippled waves of wood, the sultry Gold Room with gilded gold accents, and the quieter, elegant Green Room with velvet chairs and white accents. On Friday and Saturday nights the front lounge features a live DJ and a fire dancer twirling flames as she sways to the music. Sunday brunch is served with a side of Bollywood tunes. The energy level is high, throbbing in tune with an Ibiza vibe, so it can get very loud, and you won’t get much talking done.

Executive Chef Vaibhav Sawant, comes from the famed Mumbai restaurant, Masala Library, and here he showcases a fusion menu. The Chaats of India: tomato and mozzarella samosas, deconstructed bhel bar of crisp puffed rice cakes topped with tamarind and mint chutneys; and crunchy dahi puri topped with chutney “caviar” balls, and the assorted Kulchas are guest favorites. The grill section has the very exotic Charred Jaffna Lobster Tail, and the small plates had the Maryland Soft Shell Crab and a Duck Ghee Roast served on top of a idli. The popular desserts were the 72-hour vodka panna cotta (which didn’t taste too boozy). My favorite was the Malai Choux Bun, crackly-topped cream puffs filled with a milk custard garnished with caramel, served with a side of ice cream flavored with peppery betel leaf and rose.

PIPPAL (Emeryville)

Named for the sacred fig trees that can be found in every village in India serving as a gathering place for neighborhood conversations, food and drinks. This fast casual restaurant is on the second floor of an open air mall in Emeryville and has the same neighborly vibe. When we went on a Wednesday evening, we found it alive with locals, in a very warm, fun setting. The bar, helmed by beverage director Isler Thomas, is the focal point. It is large, featuring a striking chevron tile pattern in a double formation. Across from it is a covered terrace allowing for al fresco dining.

Chef Munish Kumar Rana’s focus here is on regional cuisine– Bihari Litti Chokha, Mutton Laal Maas, Gongura Chicken, Rajmah Galuti, Goan Chorizo Pulao –the taste is familiar and authentic. I loved the vegetarian dishes as well, the Baigna Bharta had crispy peas for a surprising crunch, and the Vada Pav and Sarson Saag were spot on.

What sets Pippal apart are the drinks. When the manager, Arvind, asked me which spirits I preferred, I told him anything except whiskey. He returns with a whiskey concoction called Jantar Mantar (bourbon whiskey, creme de banana, papaya, lime, honey, egg whites) and I tepidly try it. I would highly recommend it. What a wonderfully balanced flavor profile! But my all-time favorite was the rasam forward Kerala Backwater (vodka, honey, rasam, lime).

“The true reward comes from seeing guests fully enjoy the experience we’ve crafted—from the food to the ambiance. Every detail is infused with thought and creativity, making all the effort worthwhile,” adds Vikram Bhambri.

Learn fast, fail fast and adapt to change are all lessons learned from their time working in tech, Anu says. “We’re always experimenting, whether it’s introducing new ingredients or reinterpreting classic dishes in a modern way. We also pay close attention to global food trends and try to incorporate elements that we think will resonate with our diners.”

Chef Valice Francis shares a couple of his favorite recipes:

Pulled Jackfruit Tacos with Lime Cream and Salsa

Serves 15

Ingredients:

• Jackfruit mix: 450 g
• Chopped onion: 60 g
• Chopped tomatoes: 60 g
• Chopped coriander: 5 g
• Salt: To taste
• Lemon juice: 5 ml
• Tomato pickle chutney: 40 g
• Lime cream: 40 g
• Watermelon radish: 30 g
• Red cabbage: 30 g
• Corn tacos: 30

For Jackfruit Mix: 4.5 kg

• Jackfruit: 8 kg
• Refined oil: For frying
• Ginger garlic paste: 150 g
• Gram flour: 400 g
• Corn flour: 350 g
• Turmeric powder: 30 g
• Degi mirch (red chili powder): 30 g
• Ajwain (carom seeds): 10 g
• White vinegar: 100 ml
• Salt: 15 g
• Chaat masala: 25 g

Method:

For Phulka (Corn Bread):

1. Combine the ingredients to form a soft dough and let it rest for 30 minutes.

2. Divide the dough into 60 g portions. Dust the work surface with flour and roll out each

portion into a thin circle. Use a cutter to shape the dough into 4-inch rounds.

3. Heat a tawa (griddle) and cook each round on medium heat until both sides are lightly

browned.

4. Place a wire mesh over an open flame and puff up the corn bread. Apply ghee if

desired.

For Jackfruit Mix:

1. Peel and cut the jackfruit into pieces suitable for frying.

2. Marinate the jackfruit with ginger garlic paste, gram flour, corn flour, deggi mirch,

turmeric powder, ajwain, salt, chaat masala, and white vinegar.

3. Deep fry the marinated jackfruit in hot oil until golden brown and crispy.

For Salsa:

1. In a bowl, combine chopped tomatoes, chopped coriander, and chopped onion.

Season with salt and lemon juice.

For Assembling Tacos:

1. Place a corn taco on a work surface.

2. Add one or two pieces of watermelon radish.

3. Spoon a portion of the jackfruit mix on top.

4. Pipe lime cream and tomato pickle chutney over the jackfruit mix.

5. Add a spoonful of salsa on top.

6. Garnish with a few strands of red cabbage pickle.

7. Fold the taco halfway and place it in a taco stand.

Punjabi Saag and Burrata

Ingredients for Serving:

• Punjabi Saag: 200 g
• Burrata (4 oz): 1 piece
• Whole Garlic Confit: 10 g
• Chili Threads: 2 g

Method:

1. Reheat the Punjabi Saag and place it on a plate.

2. Position the Burrata cheese in the center of the plate.

3. Drizzle the slow-cooked garlic confit over the Burrata and garnish with chili threads.

Punjabi Saag Preparation (Yields: 5 kg)

Ingredients:

• Fresh Spinach: 2 kg
• Mustard Leaves: 6 kg
• Fresh Fenugreek Leaves: 0.5 kg
• Desi Ghee: 1 kg
• Cumin Seeds: 30 g
• Whole Red Chili: 15 g
• Chopped Garlic: 60 g
• Chopped Ginger: 30 g
• Chopped Green Chili: 80 g
• Corn Flour: 1 kg
• Chopped Onion: 1 kg
• Chopped Tomato: 1 kg

Method:

1. Cut the spinach, mustard leaves, and fenugreek leaves into fine julienne strips.

2. Place them in a pot with water and boil until tender.

3. In a separate pan, prepare a tempering by heating ghee and adding cumin seeds,

ginger, garlic, whole red chili, onion, and tomato.

4. Once the leaves are boiled, add corn flour to the pot and incorporate the tempering

mixture.

5. Blend everything together using an electric blender until smooth.

Kerala Backwater

My favorite beverage recipe. It’s very unusual and tasty

Ingredients:

Rasam, Vodka, Honey, Lime

Rasam:

Ingredients:

2 tbsp pepper

2 tbsp cumin

6 cloves garlic

2 tomato, chopped

1 cup tamarind extract

2 chili

2 tbsp oil

1 tsp mustard

1 tsp cumin

1 dried red chili

pinch asafoetida

few curry leaves

½ tsp turmeric

1 tsp salt

4 cup water

1 cup cooked split pigeon peas

2 tbsp coriander, chopped

Method to make Rasam:

1. Firstly, in a mortar pestle, take 2 tbsp pepper, 2 tbsp cumin and 6 cloves

garlic.

2. Pound coarsely, making sure everything is coarsely crushed.

3. In a large bowl take 2 tomatoes, 1 cup tamarind extract and 2 chili.

4. Squeeze the tomatoes until they turn mushy. keep aside.

5. In a large pan 2 tbsp oil. Add 1 tsp mustard, 1 tsp cumin, 1 dried red chili,

pinch asafoetida and a few curry leaves. Splutter the tempering.

6. Now add squeezed tomato tamarind mixture, ½ tsp turmeric and 1 tsp salt.

7. Cover and boil for 5 minutes or until the raw smell disappears.

Furthermore, add 4 cups water and adjust the consistency.

8. Once the water comes to a boil, add 1 cup cooked split pigeon peas and mix

well adjusting the consistency.

9. Add in pepper garlic masala and mix well.

10. Boil for 2 minutes, or until the rasam turns aromatic.

11. Finally, add 2 tbsp chopped coriander

Method To Make Cocktail:

1. Take mixing glass, add 2 ounce of vodka

2. Add 1 1/2 ounce of room temperature strained Rasam

3. Add 1 ounce lime

4. Add 1 ounce Honey syrup

5. Fill it with ice and give a good stir

6. In big old-fashioned glass with a big block of ice fine strain the

drink made in the glass

7. Garnish with some fried curry leaves and enjoy the drink

The post India’s Diverse Regional Cuisine Gets A Classy Makeover appeared first on India Currents .