American Ski Alpinist Michael Gardner Dies in Nepal

Tragic news comes out of Nepal today after pioneering big-mountain skier and climber Michael Gardner is reported to have died in a climbing accident. Details of the accident are still emerging, but the mountaineering news site Explorers Web reports that Gardner fell while attempting a new route on unclimbed 7468-meter Jannu East.

Gardner was on the cutting edge of technical ski alpinism, combining his skills as one of the boldest climbers of recent years with his skills as a big-mountain skier. He balanced his career as a professional skier and climber with his role as a mountain guide and educator in the Tetons and Alaska, and personal interests in skijoring, skateboarding, and writing. At just 33, his list of accomplishments in the mountains was already too long to list, but recent highlights include the second ski descent of the South Face of Denali, many first ascents and descents in the Alaska Range, Himalaya, Tetons and other ranges. He was a proponent of climbing and skiing in the fast and light style, relying mostly on his skill set, training and boldness to complete huge objectives.

Gardner and his close friend and frequent mountain partner Sam Hennessey were attempting to climb a new route up the North Face of Jannu East, one of the most remote and technical peaks left unclimbed in Nepal. The two had already attempted to climb their intended route in 2023, but were forced to turn back due to bad weather. Hennessey had received a grant from the American Alpine Club for this expedition.

Born in the small mountain town of Ridgway, Colorado, Gardner moved to Jackson, Wyoming, where he followed in his late father’s footsteps as a mountain guide for the famed Exum Mountain Guides.

Above all, Gardner was a beacon of light in the mountain community, inspiring countless friends, clients, and strangers alike by his infectious energy and bottomless passion for his sport and life. Whether you met him on the skin track, the chairlift, the climbing gym, the skate park, or somewhere on a remote summit halfway around the world, Gardner had a smile on his face, ready to share his excitement with those around him.

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