Skiing in Japan: The Ultimate Guide

Skiing in Japan is synonymous with bottomless powder, delicious food, hot springs, and full immersion in a culture unlike anything else on the planet. With somewhere north of 400 ski resorts and countless backcountry skiing zones in the country, it can be pretty overwhelming to figure out where to go, when to do it, and how to make it all happen. But, in reality, it’s not that hard to pull off, so here are a few things to keep in mind before you book your flight to Tokyo and get your fill of Japow.

If you’re as excited about skiing bottomless powder snow as we are here at POWDER , then Japan should without a doubt be on your bucket list. Thanks to prevailing northwesterly winds that create weather patterns crossing over the frigid Sea of Japan in the winter months, the western coast of the country typically gets slammed with massive amounts of powder snow in January and February. Hence, the islands get Japanu buried during Japanuary.

Speaking of, Japan is actually split into 14,125 islands, but the only two you have to worry about for skiing are Honshu (the large main island) and Hokkaido (its smaller northern neighbor). Luckily, the western side of Honshu is home to a chain of tall mountains (the Japanese Alps) that, along with perfectly conical volcanoes further inland and up north on Hokkaido, catch all the snowfall to create unforgettable ski conditions.

The most popular skiing can be split into two main areas: Nagano/Hakuba (main island), and the various ski resorts around Sapporo like Niseko and Rusutsu (on Hokkaido). Of course, there are dozens of other smaller ski resorts and backcountry zones equally worth exploring outside these two main areas, including Myoko Kogen, Nozawa Onsen, Furano, Lotte Arai, and many more.

Let’s begin with some basic logistics. Tokyo, the capital city, is smack in the middle of Honshu and is the entry point for most foreign tourists. If you’re coming from the United States, you will most likely have to fly into one of Tokyo’s two very large international airports. There’s not much of a difference between Haneda and Narita airports from a logistics point of view, so pick whatever makes sense for you. From there, you’ll have to get up into the mountains, but don’t skip over Tokyo–it’s one of the busiest and most fascinating cities on Earth and well worth at least a few days of exploration.

Traveling into the mountains can happen in a number of ways, and your exact destination will determine the best way to get there. It’s possible to get to many resorts by public transportation thanks to Japan’s extensive high-speed rail (Shinkansen) and well-developed bus systems. If you’re heading straight to Hokkaido, it’s possible to connect from Tokyo to Sapporo via a short flight. For backcountry ski access, it can be a good idea to rent a car or van, but be ready to drive on the left side of the road and make sure you have a valid international driver’s license.

What's the skiing in Japan actually like?

Japanese skiing is absolutely one of a kind. It’s a pretty cool feeling to do something you are probably very familiar with (skiing) in a completely foreign place. Many ski resorts feel very quirky, with funny signage, bizarre lifts and gondolas, and customs you won’t see anywhere else in the world. There’s everything from ski-through cafes and slopeside ramen to gondolas that require little “hats” for your skis to protect the tips and mandatory armbands for backcountry access.

In all honesty, Japanese skiing is not always about riding deep powder, in fact, it’s really fun to cruise around on groomers when the sun is shining and it hasn’t snowed in a few days–many of the bigger resorts do an excellent job with grooming their inbounds terrain.

However, when it’s deep, it becomes REALLY deep, so get ready. The snow quality has a lot to do with temperature, and a few degrees will make a huge difference in how light and blower it feels, and that can change quickly. On those days, big skis are you friend.

When is the best time of year to ski in Japan?

Japan's peak ski season tends to run from mid-January to the end of February. That's when you'll usually find the deepest snow, best conditions, and best atmosphere in mountain towns.

Is skiing in Japan expensive?

Generally, lift tickets in Japan cost far less than they do at bigger resorts in the United States. The local currency is the Japanese Yen, and many tickets can be purchased online. It’s possible to buy multi-resort passes like the Hakuba Valley Pass to grant access to multiple resorts in the same area.

Lodging and food are similarly priced to most North American mountain towns, but it’s definitely possible to find places slightly off the beaten path to save a few bucks. Many mountain towns have local Izakayas (pubs) that offer great food, booze, and a fun local atmosphere for cheap. There are also lots of fancy sushi spots, traditional ramen restaurants, and other options. Don't forget your karaoke budget.

Travel within the country can add up, especially if you are taking a taxi or bus to a more remote area. High-speed rail travel via the Shinkansen is the most efficient way to get into the mountains near Hakuba or Myoko, and also the best way to get to and from the airport.

Can I use my Ikon or Epic Pass?

Yes. More and more resorts are joining popular North American passes like the Ikon Pass and Epic Pass . Currently, Niseko and Lotte Arai are on the Ikon Pass, and Hakuba and Rusutsu are on the Epic Pass.

Related: Bucket List Trips: Japan Gear Guide

Can I backcountry ski in Japan?

Yes, and it’s absolutely incredible. Even if you’re an experienced backcountry skier, consider hiring a local guide for a day or two to show you around–it’s worth it and will lead you to find the deepest untracked snow. Much of the backcountry skiing is stunningly beautiful tree skiing through deciduous forests, but more technical options and some high-alpine-style freeriding zones are also accessible.

Many of the resorts have strict backcountry access policies, so inquire locally about what’s cool or not when it comes to accessing out-of-bounds terrain from the resort. For example, the two main Hakuba Valley resorts (Happo-One and Hakuba 47) have dedicated access gates off the summits, while other areas have more lax policies about leaving the resort boundary. Much of the sidecountry skiing still requires ski touring gear to exit, so be prepared, and always carry avalanche safety gear and know how to use it.

Some cat and heli-skiing operations exist on Hokkaido, including the popular Hokkaido Backcountry Club guide service. There are plenty of more remote ski touring opportunities all around the islands, particularly on Hokkaido. Popular peaks include Mt. Yotei, a large volcano with excellent high-alpine skiing.

Avalanche forecasts can be hard to find, but the Japan Avalanche Network publishes forecasts for many popular areas. Those forecasts can be found here .

What kind of skis should I bring to Japan?

It might be tempting to bring your absolute fattest skis to Japan, but unless you’re exclusively skiing in the backcountry or know there’s a week-long storm coming, you might be better served with a more versatile setup. If you have the space and plan on ski touring and riding resorts, bring two sets—a powder touring setup (110-120mm underfoot), and a ~110mm underfoot resort ski.

What’s the best thing to eat in Japan?

Anything and everything. Japanese food is a whole lot more than just sushi and ramen–but those are two great options! Traditional food in the mountains includes lots of noodle dishes like Soba, Ramen, and Udon or hotpot meals like Sukiyaki or Yosenabe. There’s also plenty of delicious street food like grilled Yakitori skewers, fried Gyoza dumplings, and Okonomiyaki, a grilled pancake topped with cabbage, seafood, or meat. Most ski areas have on-mountain cafeterias that serve delicious ramen, curry, or other traditional dishes.

Most resort towns have a few excellent high-end sushi joints and traditional pubs called Izakayas that offer smaller plates and endless sake. If you’re craving a more familiar taste, it’s possible to find very good Mexican food and burger joints in towns like Hakuba and Niseko.

One tip for when you're going out, get reservations for restaurants. It's customary, and it can be very hard to find a spot to eat without them. Your hotel front desk will be more than happy to help make these for you.

What about Japanese convenience stores like 7-Eleven?

Of course, you can't miss the experience of eating to-go meals from Japanese convenience stores (konbini) like Lawson’s, 7-Eleven, or Family Mart. This is the place to stock up on ski snacks like Onigiri (rice balls), all kinds of Japanese candies, pizza buns, fully-packed to-go meals like Katsu Curry, and a full assortment of fun canned drinks. Don’t skip out on the vending machines, either. They have warm tea!

Related: The Skier’s Guide to Snacks in Japan

What’s the difference between Honshu and Hokkaido’s skiing?

Japan’s main island, Honshu, has a wider variety of ski destinations and, in general, has bigger mountains. It’s home to the Hakuba Valley, the Myoko area, and hundreds of tiny mom-and-pop resorts tucked away elsewhere.

Hakuba is where you’ll find Japan’s biggest and baddest backcountry skiing lines, with peaks and runs that can rival what you’d find in Alaska or the Alps. It’s gnarly, it’s steep, and it’s no wonder that the Freeride World Tour has hosted events here for many years. It’s home to 10 resorts, an Olympic village, excellent hot springs, and a fun local culture. However, since it’s further south, it typically doesn't get nearly as much snow as Hokkaido, and is less of a purely powder skiing destination.

The area surrounding Mount Myoko is home to resorts like Myoko Kogen, Lotte Arai, and Seki Onsen and offers an excellent mix of terrain for both resort skiing and backcountry ski touring. There’s everything from world-class tree skiing, endless groomers to cruise, all surrounded by a small but bustling mountain community. Snow quality is similar to what you’ll find in Hakuba, but it can often be colder and drier.

Hokkaido, on the other hand, is where you’ll consistently find the deepest, fluffiest snow. The mountains and ski resorts are less tall, closer to the ocean, and generally colder than what you’ll find on Honshu. Niseko and Rusutsu are the two most popular ski resorts here, both about an hour and a half southwest of Sapporo. These feel very Western but offer incredibly unique terrain, deep snow, and stunning views of Mt. Yotei.

What are some of the best small resorts in Japan?

In both the Hakuba and Hokkaido regions, some of the best skiing can be found at the smaller, less popular resorts. Two great places to explore are neighboring Hakuba Cortina and the Norikura Onsen ski resorts, which have excellent backcountry access and really fun inbounds skiing when it snows a lot. A short drive northeast will take you to the Myoko region, where Seki Onsen and others are a fun day trip. On Hokkaido, head north out of Sapporo towards Furano or Asahidake resorts for a similar experience.

How much time should I spend in Tokyo on a ski trip?

Since you’ll most likely have to travel via Tokyo anyway, it’s well worth your while to tack on at least a few days of exploring the city. There are temples, museums, anime culture, food, nightlife, and absolutely everything in between. It’s one of the biggest cities in the world, and it’s wildly fascinating. Go get lost and enjoy yourself!

Japan has an excellent network of luggage forwarding services between airports, hotels, and resorts, so it’s possible to drop your ski bags at the airport and not have to deal with them until you get to where you’re skiing. Trust us, bringing a ski bag and other gear into the Tokyo underground metro system is only funny once.

Are there hot springs?

Japan is home to the traditional onsen, which come in many forms. In fact, many of the smaller ski areas will have an onsen at the base area hotel, and it’s a truly relaxing experience after skiing hard all day. Some are natural outdoor pools, while others are indoor affairs. Customs and traditions vary depending on the exact onsen (many will only allow entry to Japanese locals, and many still frown upon anyone with visible tattoos entering).

Do I need to rent a car in Japan?

No, but it can be very helpful to get around, especially in the mountains. Trains and buses will get you most places, but it’s great to have the ability to explore, especially on rest days or if the snow conditions turn bad. It’s probably not the best idea to rent a car in Tokyo, but it’s pretty easy to rent a vehicle once you leave the city.