5 Rules for Wearing Wide-Leg Pleated Pants as a Petite, According to a 5’ 1” Editor and a Stylist

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I’ve never really been a pants person. As a short gal, the whole hemming thing has always been a hassle, and, to be honest, I just prefer the throw-on-and-go ease of a dress. But even I can’t resist the timeless appeal of a good pleated trouser. In fact, I’d say the drapey, wide-leg bottoms have become something of a cool-girl marker these days. They’re undeniably polished and professional, but they also give off the impression of looking totally effortless—which is why they can also easily be worn well beyond the office . My only dilemma as someone who’s 5’1”? Figuring out how to style them without looking like a kid playing dress-up in mom’s ‘80s power suit.

Luckily, it’s easier done than stressed about. Thanks to brands like Abercrombie & Fitch and Madewell offering petite sizing, finding pleated pants I don’t drown in has become less of a quest. And after amassing a small collection in my capsule wardrobe , I’ve learned a thing or two about how to make them work for my height. But I’ve also enlisted the advice of Angela Foster , a stylist who specializes in dressing shorter frames, to map out the styling rules of wearing wide, pleated trousers as a shortie. “Petites can (and some absolutely should) wear pleated pants. Like any pants, it’s all about finding the ones best for your body shape,” says Foster.

Meet the Expert

Angela Foster is a petite style coach and personal shopper who has over 20 years of experience as an executive in the fashion and beauty industry. She specializes in helping high-achieving, short-statured women look and feel their best in clothing that works for them.

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1. Opt for a Longer Length

Edward Berthelot/Getty Images

It may sound counterintuitive for the vertically challenged, but being sure that the inseam is long enough on your pleated pants is crucial, since it can actually help our legs look longer. As Foster explains, “Shorter lengths, like ankle length, chop us off prematurely and make us look shorter and wider—definitely not the look most of us are shooting for.” She recommends wearing hems that skim the tops/toes of your shoes for the best look.

2. The Higher the Rise, the Better

Marissa Wu

In the same vein, higher-waist styles can also contribute to elongating your lower half. “The most flattering silhouettes will be high-rise (which hits at your natural waist/belly button) or high-waist (which lands anywhere from above your waist to the bottom of your rib cage),” Foster says. “Both inseams help create the illusion of longer legs.” She doesn’t have to tell me twice. Indeed, high-waist styles, like the Sloane tailored pants ($90) from Abercrombie & Fitch, are my short-gal go-tos when it comes to looking more leggy.

3. Pay Attention to Proportions

Karwai Tang/WireImage/Getty

Striking the right proportions with your look is essential for any and all body types, but for petites it’s especially important. Since our shorter statures can easily get lost in the volume of too much fabric, finding balance is key. As such, both Foster and I agree that the best way to contrast the wider cut of a pleated pant is by pairing it with a more form-fitting or tailored piece up top. Even better, apply the Rule of Thirds by tucking a slimmer shirt into a high-waist pair or donning a crop top à la petite fashion icon Florence Pugh above. Not only does this create a more visually interesting ensemble, it also helps to balance your silhouette. As Foster notes, “Two less-structured pieces is a lot of material, [which] can easily overwhelm short girls.”

4. Try a Monochrome Moment

One of my favorite hacks for making the most of my 5’1” height? Going monochrome. It looks chic for certain, but the real reason I love keeping my outfits to one color is because it turns my body into one sleek, continuous line; the less you break up your short frame, the longer you look. This trick really comes in handy when you’re working with more voluminous pieces, as it counteracts the wider silhouette..

5. Make Sure the Pleats Lay Flat

This is what Foster says is her most critical piece of advice, and, after a bit of trial and error working with this style, I can totally see why. “When [the pleats] pucker out and pull apart, they make us look like we’re carrying more around our middle than we actually are,” she says. Speaking from firsthand experience, this tends to happen when the pants are a bit too tight at the waist. Therefore, to keep those pleats looking polished (and flattering), I’ve adopted Foster’s rule of thumb: “If necessary, be okay with ordering a size up for the most flattering fit.” Even if you need to throw on a belt, going up a size will ensure you get the cool, slouchy look that makes these pants so stylish.

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