Burberry presents spring styles in pastel hues against brutalist backdrop

By Helen Reid

LONDON (Reuters) - Burberry creative director Daniel Lee deconstructed the classic trenchcoat for the British brand's Spring/Summer 2025 collection, with models draped in baby blue capes with feather trim walking a lilac-carpeted catwalk at London's National Theatre on Monday.

Powder pink, blue and purple hues stood out amid a palette of off-white, beige and grey, while sequins in gold, lilac, and brown also featured on several dresses and tops.

Cropped jackets were made of light materials like silk poplin and linen, while trenchcoat elements like capes, epaulettes, and buckles were superimposed onto silk dresses with open backs. Men wore structured jackets with high collars in teal and Burberry check.

It was Burberry's first show since Joshua Schulman took over as CEO in July, with the brand under pressure to turn its performance around after sales lagged behind rivals.

The catwalk was lined with green canvas sheets perforated with rectangles and circles, tied up with blue industrial rope.

Created by artist Gary Hume, the hangings mirrored the grey grid of concrete squares that make up the ceiling of the theatre, one of London's best-known examples of brutalist architecture.

The Burberry show is a cornerstone of London Fashion Week, a biannual event in which designers and brands present new creations at catwalk shows across the city. It ends on Tuesday.

(Reporting by Helen Reid; Editing by Tomasz Janowski)