How This Balinese Surfing Village Became a Go-To Destination

Rain is pounding the open central courtyard of a Balinese home as a traditional breakfast of shredded chicken, chicken satay, rice, pickles, and sambal, along with coffee and a pandan and coconut crepe, is served to a small group of travelers huddled underneath an awning. They discuss the food, the layout of the home, and how religious practices differ in Ungasan, a district at the southernmost point of Bali neighboring Uluwatu.

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It’s the type of firsthand look at local life that most visitors to Bali never get and was arranged as an exclusive offering in conjunction with the nearby Umana Bali (from, $1,097), an LXR resort on Bali’s south-western tip.

“This isn’t the ‘beautiful’ Bali, it’s just a real village,” says Agus Wirawan, a guide and cultural liaison who works in hotel operations for Umana. The home belongs to another staff member who opens up the doors to her residence as a means of cultural exchange. “We try to share what we have, that is our philosophy and culture here, and even if it’s just the first time meeting you, we try to share with our guests,” he says.

Those authentic cultural glimpses, however, are increasingly difficult to catch in packed-to-the-gills Bali. The number of foreign tourists coming directly to Bali rose to 625,665 in July, from 520,898 the month prior, which was an increase of 20.11 percent, according to a report from the provincial government. Meanwhile, the island’s entire population is estimated at just 739,198. Occupancy in starred hotels leapt 63.6 percent in July from the same month the previous year. And thanks to badly behaved tourists , a glut of western restaurants, and the destruction of quiet village life and rice paddies, the government now plans to ban new construction of hotels and villas in the coming weeks.

Even Ubud , the spiritual center of the island, is now dangerously lacking in namaste vibes thanks to an endless string of traffic, whisking throngs of influencers to their prearranged photo shoots at “hidden gem” waterfalls and temples. Along the packed beaches of Canggu and Seminyak, overpriced, stereotypical tourist shops rule the day.

That doesn’t mean you should give Bali a pass. But perhaps more than any other destination today, it pays to know where to go.

The villages of Uluwatu and Ungasan, located on the high cliffs of the Bukit Peninsula, have benefited from a more sensible approach to increased development.

“It is essential to approach this growth with a balanced perspective, in line with Balinese philosophy that life is a harmony between god, human beings, and nature,” says Serpil Guney, the general manager of Umana, referring to the concept of Tri Hita Karana—the “three causes of well-being.”

What that meant at Umana, which opened at the end of 2023, was 72 enormous villas (think 3,100-square-foot one bedrooms with 441-square-foot private pools) spread across 25-acres—all positioned atop the striking cliffs that rise over the crashing waves of Melasti Beach so that the crowds couldn’t flock there even if they tried.

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But it’s not the only resort hoping to anchor itself with this special slice of Bali.

In 2022, the Jumeirah Bali (from $813) debuted with 123 one and two-bedroom villas, incorporating architecture and design inspired by the concept of a royal Javanese water palace. Along with Umana, the two added to an already-strong luxury lineup in Bali’s southernmost districts: the Bulgari Resort Bali (from $1,400), with 59 villas in addition to five enormous “mansions;” the Alila Villas Uluwatu (from $1,000), with 67 sleek, contemporary villas ranging from one to four bedrooms in size; and the Six Senses Uluwatu (from $701), which includes a collection of 28 suites in addition to its 75 pool villas.

The area is also known for its private rentals, and Uluwatu Surf Villas (from $700) successfully bridges the gap between the realms of rental and resort. The name indicates the type of crowd Uluwatu has long attracted, even if now the area has allure for those looking to find serenity amid Bali’s crowds and clamor.

“Traditionally, Uluwatu was primarily known as a destination for surfers, but it has since become more mainstream,” says Anthony Smekens, general manager of the Bulgari Resort Bali. “New boutique hotels, trendy restaurants, spas, and nightclubs have brought new life to the area, making it one of the most exciting destinations in Bali. It’s cool, sophisticated, and very international while retaining its character and Balinese essence.”

Beyond a visit to a local village, take in an evening Melasti Kecak dance performance on the beach. Or head to the towering Garuda Wisnu Kencana statue, which at 400-feet tall looms over the entire southern portion of the island.

“For those looking to explore the cultural side of Bali, Uluwatu is home to the iconic Uluwatu Temple, where visitors can experience traditional Balinese rituals,” says Morgan Martinello, general manager of Alila Villas Uluwatu. The cliff top temple is one of the most significant Balinese Hindu temples, while elsewhere, smaller, lesser known temples await, such as Batu Pageh, little more than an ancient shrine in a bat-filled, oceanfront cave.

“Sometimes development can bring a new perspective,” Wirawan says. “It has to be coming from the heart, and that’s the concept we try to apply: guests as family. It’s a very powerful word in Bali, helping or ‘ yadnya .’ It’s like offerings, meaning you give something of yourself to someone, and it’s purely coming from your heart.”

Good luck finding that in Seminyak or Canggu.

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