3 Distinctive Young Brands Proving Cookie-Cutter Custom Suits Are on the Way Out

When made-to-measure tailors began proliferating in city centers in the late 2000s, they had a certain cookie-cutter quality. Mandated to suit up for a new job in finance or a wedding? Here are your cloths, your customizations, and anything else you might want; see you in 4-6 weeks.

What they lacked were any points of distinction, whether expressed through the construction of the garments themselves or the curation of the materials. This was by design, as the intent was to serve all possible customers, no matter if they fancied a structured English shoulder or a barely there Neapolitan build. Call it tailoring by way of the Chipotle assembly line.

Well, the shine seems to have worn off of these operations, as dress codes have relaxed further, and office towers stand empty. If a man—or a woman—wears tailoring today, it’s increasingly by choice, and a manifestation of their own sense of style. Lucky then that a new generation of made-to-measure and made-to-order tailors have sprung up globally, and they’re offering what those have-it-your-way makers never could: a point of view.

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A Maximilian Mogg suit, for instance, can be identified from a mile away. The eponymous Berlin tailor—who offers made-to-measure alongside full bespoke and plans to open a Manhattan branch early next year—is conscious that his angular, strong-shouldered cut inspired by Savile Row, Art Deco, and the drama of the 1970s isn’t for everyone, and that’s OK.

“We have no problem directing clients to experts when they ask for specific Italian shoulders, because we strongly believe that we are experts in what we do and can do it best,” he tells Robb Report .

What’s more, the tailoring nerdery that fires Mogg up is shared by his clients, too. “Mostly enthusiasts,” he says, describing his customer base. “Nobody really needs to wear a suit these days; it’s a conscious decision to opt for one. This is where we come into play. Our house style communicates, ‘I love classic menswear.'”

On the more contemporary side of the ledger is Toronto newcomer Sartoria Wynona . Founder Robert Yarish has sought to distinguish his fledgling MTM business by offering four distinct models—a soft-shouldered Type 01, the slightly more structured Type 02, a double-breasted Type 03, and the soon-to-launch Type 04 tuxedo. Complementing each is an unabashedly tactile fabric selection, proposing slubby dupioni silks and peached cottons for summertime, and heavyweight Scottish tweeds and brushed cashmeres come fall.

“I draw a lot of inspiration from womenswear, exploring different silhouettes and materials. It helps me understand the broader shifts in the industry,” Yarish says. “I look to early Celine, Dior, and other designers where pattern-making and construction were truly an art form. It allows me to bring a fresh perspective to menswear tailoring that feels both classic and forward-thinking.”

Few brands in the tailoring space have done more to advance a coherent look than Husbands . Since its inception in 2012, the Parisian label has advanced a sexed-up silhouette typified by big shoulder pads, slim belts, and wide, high-waisted trousers with flare.

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“What we attract is creative people the most. From graphic designers to artistic directors to architects and photographers,” says Husbands founder Nicolas Gabard. “They can use what we are doing to create their own message.”

The Husbands look is so strong that when the maker debuted a custom option , it was made-to-order rather than made-to-measure. While customers have their pick of cloth and minor considerations such as linings and pockets, the offering’s purposefully limited customizations preserve what Husbands does best: styling.

“What we really want to make is a Husbands suit. So, it has to be Husbands,” Gabard adds. “If you push MTM too far, you lose a little part of your identity.”

At a time when tailoring has gone from a prescribed uniform to a tool of self-expression, the irony may be that buying into a tailor’s house style is what expresses the most.

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