Springtime in Salem: Enjoying the Infamously Spooky City Outside of Halloween

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I'm a lifelong lover of all things gothic, dark, and spooky, and without rambling on ad infinitum about my interests, I'll just say I'm the kind of person you'd expect to make at least one pilgrimage to Salem, Massachusetts for Halloween- if not every Halloween. Every autumn I'd consider it, and every October, I'd see the Samhain crowds sardine-packed into Essex Street and balk. I don't like contributing to overtourism when I can avoid it, and I hate being crowded. However, after I was invited to attend a wedding in Salem this May, I finally decided to try something different and see what Salem was like outside of its most iconic season!

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Perfect Weather for Esoteric Explorations

New England weather varies throughout the spring, but my late May visit was balmy, comfortably warm, and mostly sunny. This was perfect, because Salem is a very walkable city, and the lovely spring weather combined with the lack of seasonal crowds made exploring the town a pleasure. All the usual tourist attractions that people flock to in Halloween are open year-round, so you'll be able to check off most, if not all, of your bucket list stops in an off-season visit. Don't be afraid to explore some of the less obvious attractions, too! These were some of my faves:

Essex Street

This is arguably Salem's most iconic street. The wide cobblestone avenue is lined with unique museums and spooky shops , including the iconic "Witch City Mall." What can I I say: if you want the quintessential "touristy" Salem experience, Essex Street is a must.

The Salem Witch House

The former home of the infamous Witch Trials magistrate Jonathan Corwin is transformed into a grim time capsule of the 17th century, demonstrating not only how the settlers lived at that time, but also the contemporary cultural mores and paranoias that led to the deadly Witch Trials hysteria. Fun fact: despite being relocated by several yards in the 1940s to avoid demolition, the Witch House is still roughly 80% composed of its original material from the 17th century.

The Peabody Essex Museum

For something less campy and witchy, check out the sprawling and innovative Peabody Essex Museum on Essex Street. My fiance and I participated in an interactive art piece, saw live bats in an exhibition, perused historic Japanese and Ethiopian art, and controlled amorphous avatars in an augmented reality exhibit... and that only scratches the surface of our visit!

Salem Maritime National Historic Site

This was a great place to check out when we wanted a respite from the typical tourist traps. Unfortunately, we were a couple weeks too early to board the Friendship of Salem (a docked 18th-century vessel that's open to the public in summer), but it was still worth a walk down to the end of the old wharf to look out across Salem Harbor, busy with boaters enjoying their Labor Day weekend.

The Salem Witch Trials Memorial

Though the Witch Trials have almost been turned into a punch line over the years, the real event claimed the lives of 25 innocent people. Those people are commemorated at the solemn Witch Trials Memorial next to the Charter Street Cemetery.

I will keep their names anonymous for privacy's sake, but while at the memorial, I saw a note left on one of the victim's markers. The note was from her "great-great-great-great-great-great-great-great-great-grandson," who mourned his predecessor's death but praised her inspiring courage in the face of persecution. As I read it, past and present felt indistinguishable in a bittersweet moment that is impossible to describe. Despite everything, the legacies of the Witch Trials' victims literally live on.

Food and Fashion

Obviously, Salem is a haven for spooky shoppers and trinket-loving tourists, and its famously weird shops are just as fun and inviting in the spring! If you're looking for some fun souvenirs or fashionable fits, start at Essex Street and work your way out. I liked:

Blackcraft

This popular goth brand is already big online, but their Salem storefront is built inside of an old bank and is absolutely breathtaking just to step inside of. Plus, they have their own haunted house and a coffee shop in the back. What's not to love?

Die With Your Boots On/ The Ossuary

Die With Your Boots On (recommended to me by my Airbnb host ) is a fun neon-splashed alternative boutique with tons of punk, goth, emo, and metal fits for wonderful weirdos of all stripes. Their sister store on Wharf Street, The Ossuary, sells gothic formal wear fit for a vampire masquerade ball!

L'Appel Du Vide

Close to the waterfront on Derby Street, L'Appel Du Vide is one of Salem's many fantastic witch shops, but this place stood out to me for combining its witchy appeal with a more modern gothic edge. It's worth a visit just for their molded candles alone.

I'd love to wax poetic on my favorite Salem eateries, but we'd be here all day. I will shout out my top three, though. For breakfast, Gulu-Gulu Cafe offers amazing lattes, toothsome bagels, and outstanding service. For lunch, grab a bowl of New England Clam Chowder at the intimate Lobster Shack in Derby Square (and if you're a really daring drinker, challenge yourself with a Lobstertini). And finally, after a long day of exploring, nothing hit the spot for me quite like some hearty Irish pub grub and cold pints at the Olde Main Street Pub.

Salem in Spring - Yes or No?

If you go to Salem in the spring, the foliage will be green and the Halloween decorations lacking. But the city doesn't lose any of its weird and wonderful edge in its "off-season." Its dark and complex history is ever-present, and the beloved goth shops, witchy boutiques, campy wax museums, and solemn historical sites that entice visitors every Halloween stay open after the fall, save a few minor exceptions. This will be obvious to Salem locals, but I think it bears repeating for the tourist crowd.

Not only did I not feel robbed of a "stereotypical" Salem experience, but because I wasn't battling massive seasonal crowds, I felt more free to explore. I could meander and take my time without worrying about closing windows of opportunity, the locals were friendly and laid-back, and the spring weather made it all the more pleasant. If you're looking for an excuse to skip Salem in the fall and visit during the off-season, here's your sign!

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