Cathy Thomas Makes Chef Michael Campbell’s Yellowtail Ceviche

I knew I was in for a treat when Michael Campbell muscled a humongous head-to-tail yellowtail into my kitchen. Campbell is the executive chef-owner of Capas at Stanton’s food hall, Rodeo 39. He also has a location opening in August at River Street Marketplace in San Juan Capistrano. He was ready to show me the secrets of his irresistible yellowtail ceviche. Without question, it is the best ceviche I’ve ever tasted.

The fish sat in an enormous tub of ice, yet it exceeded the length of the container, requiring its noble head to protrude over the side. An eye looked at the ceiling, clear and shiny, the pupil jet black—all telltale signs of freshness. Campbell explained that the delightfully fresh fish was purchased at Pelican Fish Market in Oceanside. It had been caught about 50 miles off the coast.

Of course, that freshness would pay off in taste and texture. But it was Campbell’s talent for building layers of flavor that put the dish over the top. The name of his eateries, Capas, is Spanish for layers. And his talent for finding prefect balances of ingredients is evident in his ceviche as well as his salsas and smoked-meat tacos.

The yellowtail teamed with leche de tigre (tiger’s milk), a Peruvian-inspired mix with a base of fresh lime juice and coconut milk. He augmented the concoction with mashed avocado. Another flavor layer and texture contrast arrived with the addition of zucchini de gallo , a concoction made of small, diced zucchini marinated in a mix of spices, vinegar, honey, and onion.

It was served accompanied by made-in-house tortilla chips. These crisp beauties weren’t the average restaurant rendition. They were sprinkled, fresh from the fryer, with a mix of seasoning salt, smoked paprika, sugar, and lime powder. Delicious. Dip one of these luscious chips into Chef Campbell’s yellowtail mix. Scoop up some fish along with its scrumptious ceviche ingredient partners. Savor the layered splendor. Repeat.

And repeat again.

Favorite hangout: The chef meet-ups at The Ecology Center with interesting discussions often about how the industry is progressing

Secret talent: I love woodworking, making platters for catering.

Best culinary influencer: First job out of culinary school was at Wildwood in Portland with Chef Cory Schreiber. He taught me the integrity of cooking and the mindfulness involved.

First interest in cooking: I was a hungry kid, and I was encouraged to experiment in the kitchen from a young age. I started making dinners for my family when I was 12. Some were less than edible.

Biggest luxury: A break after lunch to surf. If I can take five waves, that’s great. I’m quick at slipping into that wetsuit.

Childhood hero: Cal Ripken, the baseball player on the Baltimore Orioles. He stressed that you just don’t miss a day at work. He never sat out. I’m excited to be at work and look forward to it. Spin the wheel of the restaurant world and solve any problems.

Collections: Knives and surfboards

Drink of choice: Tepache—it’s earthy, bright, fresh and caffeinated.

YELLOWTAIL CEVICHE WITH TIGRE DE LECHE AND PICKLED ZUCCHINI

Yield: 6 servings

INGREDIENTS

Zucchini de gallo: 1 small zucchini (cut into small dice), 1/2 cup cider vinegar, 2 tablespoons honey, 2 tablespoons sugar, 1/2 white onion (cut into small dice), 1 teaspoon ground turmeric, 1 teaspoon mustard powder, 1 teaspoon toasted mustard seeds, 2 tablespoons salt

24 ounces sushi grade yellowtail fillet, skin removed, cut into thin crosswise slices

1 cup fresh lime juice

2 tablespoons honey

1/2 white onion, cut into small dice

1/3 cup zucchini de gallo

1 large clove garlic, thinly sliced crosswise

1/2 medium jalapeno, sliced crosswise

8 ounces coconut milk

1/2 avocado

Salt to taste

Last-minute add: about 3 tablespoons finely sliced (chiffonade) cilantro

Garnish: a spoonful or two of zucchini de gallo

For serving: tortilla chips

INSTRUCTIONS

1. Prepare the zucchini de gallo: In a nonreactive bowl, combine zucchini, vinegar, honey, sugar, onion, turmeric, mustard powder, mustard seeds, and salt. Toss to combine. Cover and refrigerate overnight. Drain before use.

2. Place the yellowtail slices in a large bowl. Add juice, honey, and onion. Gently toss. Add 1/3 cup zucchini de gallo, garlic, and jalapeno; gently toss. Stir in coconut milk. Add avocado and mash it, pressing it against the side of the bowl with a large spoon. Add salt to taste.

3. Just before serving, stir in cilantro. Spoon into serving bowls. Garnish each serving with a little zucchini de gallo. Accompany with tortilla chips.

Source: Michael Campbell, executive chef-owner of Capas, Rodeo 39 food hall, Stanton and San Juan Capistrano, River Street Marketplace

Cathy Thomas is an award-winning food writer and has authored three cookbooks: “50 Best Plants on the Planet,” “Melissa’s Great Book of Produce,” and “Melissa’s Everyday Cooking with Organic Produce.” For more than 30 years, she has written about cooking, chefs, and food trends. She was the first newspaper food journalist to pioneer taping how-to culinary videos for the web. cathythomascooks.com