Vada Pav (Indian Potato Fritter Sandwich)

These starchy sliders are a popular beachside snack in Mumbai. In this vada pav recipe adapted from one served at the late chef Floyd Cardoz’s now-shuttered New York City restaurant, Paowalla, fluffy Goan-style white rolls are filled with a crispy fried potato patty, sweet and hot chutneys, and a garlicky chile-coconut condiment.

Flavorful chutneys are an essential component of Indian cuisine, far from a mere condiment. Cardoz was particularly masterful in how he used homemade chutneys to amplify the flavor of any dish. Three distinct chutneys complement our take on his crispy vada pav—a fresh mint-cilantro version; a crunchy “dry chutney” of toasted garlic, peanuts, and coconut; and a sweet and tangy tamarind chutney laced with cumin and red chile powder.

• 8 medium yellow potatoes (4 lb.)
• ½ cup chopped cilantro
• 2 Tbsp. mustard oil
• 2 tsp. cumin seeds
• 2 tsp. mustard seeds
• 1½ tsp. ground turmeric, divided
• 1 tsp. ground coriander
• Pinch asafoetida (hing)
• 12 curry leaves
• 4–6 green bird’s eye chiles, thinly sliced
• 1 small onion, finely chopped (1 cup)
• Kosher salt
• 3 cups chickpea flour
• 1 tsp. baking soda
• Vegetable oil, for frying
• 12 small, soft white rolls, homemade or store-bought
• Mint chutney, tamarind chutney, and dry garlic chutney, for serving

Instructions

1. To a large pot, add the potatoes and enough cold water to cover. Bring to a boil, and cook until tender, 35–40 minutes. Drain, set aside to cool slightly, then use a kitchen towel to remove and discard the skins. Pass the potatoes through a ricer into a medium bowl (alternatively, place the potatoes in a medium bowl and mash gently with a fork), then gently fold in the cilantro.
2. To a large skillet over high heat, add the mustard oil. When it’s smoking, add the cumin and mustard seeds, and cook until they begin to pop. Stir in 1 teaspoon of the turmeric, the coriander, and the asafoetida, and cook a few seconds more, then add the curry leaves and cook until they blister and turn bright and glossy, 5–10 seconds. Add the chiles and onion, then turn the heat to medium and continue cooking, stirring occasionally, until the onions are translucent but not yet browned, 5–7 minutes more. Transfer to the bowl with the potatoes, season to taste with salt, and stir gently to combine, then set aside until cool enough to handle.
3. Shape the cooled potato mixture into 12 even patties, about 4 ounces each or ½ cup of mixture per patty. Place on a plate and transfer, uncovered, to the freezer to firm slightly.
4. Prepare the batter: In a medium bowl, whisk together the chickpea flour, baking soda, and the remaining ½ teaspoon of turmeric. Season to taste with salt, then whisk in 1½ cups of cool water to make a smooth, thick but pourable batter. Set aside to rest for 15 minutes.
5. Fry the patties: Into a large heavy-bottomed pot fitted with a deep-fry thermometer, pour the oil to a depth of 2 inches. Remove the potato patties from the freezer and dredge them in the batter to coat. Turn the heat to medium-high and when the temperature reads 350°F, working in batches so as not to overcrowd the pan, carefully drop the patties into the oil. Stir immediately to prevent them from sticking to the pan or each other, then cook, turning once, until evenly golden, crispy, and warmed through, 4–5 minutes per batch. Remove with a spider skimmer or slotted spoon and drain on a paper towel-lined baking sheet while you finish frying the rest of the patties.
6. Slice the buns in half, smear the tops with green chutney and place the potato patties on the bottoms. Spread the patties with sweet tamarind chutney and sprinkle generously with dry garlic chutney. Replace the top buns and serve hot.