Despite recent closures, mom-and-pop markets still have an edge in rural Maine

The closure of two locations of Tozier’s Family Markets has been a tough development for some shoppers in the region — particularly those in more rural Searsport, where the decades-old institution saved many residents a 40-minute round trip to the next closest food markets in Bucksport or Belfast.

But while they weren’t the first mom-and-pop markets to close their doors in recent years, it’s not clear that their demise should be interpreted as a troubling signal about the larger health of independent grocers, either.

Family-owned markets do have their share of difficulties, including the inflation and hiring troubles that have bedeviled many industries since the pandemic. More uniquely, they also face competition from a growing array of chain supermarkets, dollar stores and online retailers that have an easier time cutting prices and offering more variety. (Tozier’s owners have not responded to requests for comment about their own circumstances.)

However, while there’s no comprehensive data, those independent stores still appear to maintain a large presence across rural Maine. They can serve smaller communities that have trouble attracting those bigger supermarkets, while more easily adjusting their inventories to what’s in demand and developing a loyal customer base.

Independent grocers have been losing ground to bigger chains in increasingly developed and populated southern Maine, where national supermarkets such as Costco and Market Basket have moved in recent years, according to what limited data is available. But the smaller places still have a strong presence almost everywhere else.

About two-thirds of the $881 million in sales in 2020 by Maine’s independent community grocers — generally considered to have fewer than four locations — were in the more vast and rural 2nd Congressional District, according to the National Grocers Association .

An older analysis from the federal government found that between 2005 and 2015, the share of grocery stores that were independently owned fell in Maine’s southernmost counties — York and Cumberland — while rising across much of the rest of the state.

Despite Maine’s geographic and demographic variety, it has had a “stable” grocery store industry, according to Christine Cummings, executive director of the Maine Grocers and Food Producers Association.

Chain retailers command more name recognition and can carry private label goods — which allows them to more easily lower prices, according to Cummings. But, she noted, independents have more operational flexibility to offer what their customers want.

“It’s really good to see the balance between the larger stores and some of the independents in the community,” she said.

Just down the road from Searsport, in Belfast, the owners of two small markets made some of the same arguments. They have struggled with rising costs due to inflation, but still appear to play a vital role in the market.

“Everything goes up. My light bill was $2,000 the first month,” said Travis Benjamin, who along with his sister bought Jack’s Grocery earlier this year. “People don’t think of that stuff. It’s not easy.”

At Belfast Variety, owner Sam Irfan said there’s been a big increase in monthly costs for electricity, exacerbated by the fact that it’s powering older, less efficient systems.

“We have an accountant that pays our bills, but it’s definitely a big number,” he said. “Some equipment, like this lighting is not LED, it’s still old-style compressors, and it drains a lot of electricity. It’s already too much to pay.”

Outside of the bills adding up from outdated equipment, Irfan said he has experienced a few minor staffing issues. Belfast Variety is open seven days a week from 5 a.m. to 10 p.m., and employs at least 20 people.

But Irfan, who has also worked for bigger grocery chains, said that so far, the rising costs have not been enough to seriously dent his sales.

“The financial aspect isn’t so difficult, because this is a high volume store,” he said.

BDN writer Charles Eichacker contributed reporting.