Record number of cider producers join showcase at Gravenstein Apple Fair

Long before California’s infatuation with the wine grape, apples were king in Sonoma County, which was once considered among the top apple-growing regions in the world.

It all began with the Gravenstein, a versatile, early-ripening variety that likely arrived in Sonoma County in the early 1800s. Although opinions differ on who introduced the apple to the area, there is widespread agreement it’s a superstar cultivar and former engine — along with hops and dairy products — of the region’s thriving agricultural economy.

These days, however, you’re more likely to see a grapevine than a Gravenstein in the Russian River Valley, a region now prized for its superlative (and highly profitable) Pinot Noir.

While nearly 15,000 acres of apple trees stretched across the region in the 1940s, only 2,067 total acres remained in 2022, including 633 acres of Gravensteins. Vineyards, in comparison, covered approximately 60,000 of Sonoma County’s roughly 1 million acres.

But while Sonoma County has been busy replacing its orchards with wine grapes, the hard apple cider market has seen exponential growth. In 2022, more than $530 million was spent on hard cider in the United States, according to data research firm NielsenIQ, with regional/local brands capturing a whopping 54% of total hard cider sales.

At an upcoming showcase of the region’s apple heritage, the 51st annual Gravenstein Apple Fair in Sebastopol on Aug. 10-11, organizers report a record number of 18 participating cider brands. That’s a significant increase since the cider tent debuted a decade ago, when only five producers participated.

“It’s really a testament to the popularity of hard cider,” said Dana Glei, chair of the fair’s Craft Cider Tent. “We’re thrilled to see this growth.”

In order to qualify for the fair, a cider must include apples grown within 100 miles of Ragle Ranch Park, where the fair is held. Even if a cidery isn’t within the 100-mile mark, their cider can qualify if it features local fruit.

New at this year’s lineup is Lassen Cider from Chico, cider from Hobo Wine Co. in Santa Rosa and Onirique Cider from Sebastopol. Returning favorites include Tilted Shed, Eric Sussman’s Eye Cyder, Golden State Cider and more.

“I don’t think there are many places in the country where you can get cider from so many producers using local apples,” said Glei. “What’s really astonishing is how the ciders vary in taste — even those made from the same variety of apples.”

Ellen Cavelli, co-founder of Tilted Shed Cider in Sebastopol, said the local cider industry has played a key role, stretching back at least a decade, in preserving the heritage of the Gravenstein apple and supporting the last remaining apple farmers.

“The increase in local cider producers using Gravensteins has helped consumers develop a deeper appreciation of the variety,” said Cavelli. “Local Gravensteins have incredible, unique flavors and aromas that contribute to expressive cider. Like wine grapes, I believe there is a case to be made that our local Gravensteins possess terroir — and that’s worth saving.”

You can reach Staff Writer Sarah Doyle at 707-521-5478 or sarah.doyle@pressdemocrat.com. On Instagram @whiskymuse.