A Journey Through Black Hair Care: From Traditional Practices to Modern Innovations

Digital creator @tanita.dee recently shared an insightful video on the history and evolution of Black hair care, responding to a request for a rundown of the products and practices used by Black women before the modern hair care industry took shape.

In her video, she traces the journey from traditional African methods to contemporary innovations, detailing the resilience and ingenuity that have defined Black hair care over the centuries!

Reflecting on her own routine, @tanita.dee noted how the wide variety of conditioners, oils, and styling products available today is a far cry from the natural ingredients used by African women in the past.

She explains how various tribes across the African continent developed their own hair care practices, utilizing resources readily available in their environments.

For instance, shea butter, derived from the nuts of the shea tree in West Africa, has long been used to protect hair and skin from the harsh sun and to treat ailments like arthritis.

In Central Africa, women used seeds from the chebe plant, blending them into a fine powder to retain moisture in their hair.

Moving eastward, butter made from fermented milk was a staple for keeping hair soft and shiny, while up north, rhassoul clay served as a natural cleanser for both hair and body.

In southern Africa, the bark of the albap tree was mixed with fat to nourish the hair.

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These hair care rituals were more than just maintenance; they were a cherished part of community life, symbolizing both beauty and femininity.

Tragically, the transatlantic slave trade disrupted these traditions, stripping enslaved Africans of their cultural practices, including their hair care routines. The heads of enslaved people were often shaved as a way to sever their connection to their heritage, and afro-textured hair was dehumanized, labeled as “bad hair.”

Despite these dehumanizing practices, enslaved Africans found ways to adapt. They repurposed wool carding tools to detangle their hair, used kerosene and cornmeal to cleanse their scalps, conditioned their hair with eggs, and moisturized it with bacon grease.

To protect their hair from the elements, they fashioned headscarves from unwanted fabrics and threaded sections of their hair with cotton to prevent knotting, even though these practices were later vilified by the colonial institutions.

The stigma surrounding afro-textured hair persisted long after the abolition of slavery. During the post-slavery era, straight hair became a marker of respectability and opportunity, leading many Black Americans to use hot combs and other methods to straighten their hair temporarily.

However, Black women continued to innovate, concocting their own hair care products at home.

The early 1900s marked a significant turning point with the emergence of Black-owned hair care brands. Annie Turnbo Malone launched a successful haircare line, paving the way for the legendary Madame CJ Walker, the first female self-made millionaire in America. Walker’s products, which prominently featured Vaseline as a key ingredient, revolutionized Black hair care and laid the foundation for the industry.

As the 20th century progressed, brands like Johnson Products, Dark and Lovely, Pink Hair Care, Carol’s Daughter, Just For Me, and Miss Jessie’s began to dominate the market, offering a range of products tailored specifically for afro-textured hair.

These brands were particularly influential during the Black Power movement, which celebrated natural Black beauty and helped shift public perception of afro-textured hair.

Today, the natural hair movement has brought about a renaissance in Black hair care, with a multitude of products available to cater to every curl pattern and texture.

While there is still work to be done in terms of acceptance and representation, the resilience and creativity of Black women have reclaimed and redefined the beauty of their hair.

@tanita.dee’s video reminds all us about the deep cultural significance of Black hair and the incredible journey it has undergone. From traditional African practices to modern-day innovations, the story of Black hair care is one of perseverance, adaptation, and ultimately, triumph!