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Sourcing Journal
Spring/Summer 2025 Men’s Denim Report
The Spring/Summer 2025 collections presented at men’s fashion weeks reveal signs of more playful and decorated denim ahead.Denim Street Style at Milan Men's Fashion Week While brands like Ami, Jacob Cohen and Nili Lotan kept it versatile and classic with monochromatic double denim looks, clean washes and timeless silhouettes, numerous other labels were reaching for extremes. Attention was being paid to the waist and hem of jeans. Belts—a big story in Resort 2025 collections—popped up again in numbers. Lemaire added belts with chains to its raw denim jeans. Metal ornaments and thin belts with chains decorated the sides of Amiri’s retro blue jeans. 3.Paradis...
Meeting Escalating Disclosure Requirements Demands Physical Proof
“Show, don’t tell” may be a best practice for fiction authors, but it is also becoming sage advice for supply chain transparency.How Traceability Takes Cotton Supply Chains from Opaque to Transparent Everyone from consumers to downstream supply chain partners are seeking out specifics on products’ origins and sustainability profiles. This includes raw material sourcing, labor conditions and environmental impact. “It’s important for companies to not only communicate what they know but to also provide robust evidence and proof to build trust and credibility,” said Monica Jonas, chief operating officer at Oritain. “Brands must go beyond compliance to embrace full disclosure and proactive...
Inditex Backs US Agricultural Innovator Galy’s Lab-Grown Cotton
Zara parent Inditex has made an investment in sustainable agriculture, but some environmental activists say the fashion giant needs to do more to reduce its carbon footprint.How Traceability Takes Cotton Supply Chains from Opaque to Transparent Madrid-based Inditex—which also owns fashion brands such as Pull&Bear, Massimo Dutti, Bershka, Stradivarius and Oysho—announced at its annual general meeting this week that it has invested in Boston-based sustainable agricultural startup Galy. “Today, we are disclosing that we have entered the capital of Galy, a startup founded in 2019 in the U.S., which is developing an innovative process to produce cotton in laboratories from plant cells,”...
US Denim Bridges Cotton’s Supply-Demand Gap with Hemp
Climate change is impacting all areas of life, but it’s also having an effect on the fashion industry, as droughts, floods and other extreme weather events alter cotton crop viability and supply. G-Star Raw's Greenhouse-Grown Cotton: Study Results and Next Steps “What we have observed over the years is disruption in production of crops, resulting in a serious and significant gap in the demand and supply, including cotton,” said Irfan Nazir Ahmad, CEO of the fabrics vertical at US Group. The Lahore, Pakistan-based mill is adjusting and adapting to the new agricultural normal by exploring new plants—namely hemp. Since 2021, the manufacturer...
How Traceability Takes Cotton Supply Chains from Opaque to Transparent
Cotton supply chains have traditionally been highly opaque, but this is changing as companies adapt to a growing demand for transparency.Meeting Escalating Disclosure Requirements Demands Physical Proof The historic lack of visibility stems from the cotton supply chain’s complexity, as the fiber changes hands multiple times from field to final product. Add the incentive to chase lower costs and the pressure of quick manufacturing turnarounds, and it creates a ripe environment for substitutions to occur as companies either accidentally or knowingly try to pass off one type of cotton for another, explained executives from Oritain and Supima during Sourcing Journal’s “Is...
Court Overturns FMC Ruling on Late D&D Fees—A Win for Ocean Carriers
As the Federal Maritime Commission (FMC) keeps pressure on ocean carriers over their enforcement of detention and demurrage (D&D) fees, one container shipping line saw a rare win for the industry that could set a precedent in how these cases play out going forward.US Ports See 'Strongest Surge in Volume' Since August 2022 On Friday, Evergreen won an appeal in the U.S. Court of Appeals in Washington, D.C. in its case against the agency regarding the application of these late fees. As part of its ruling, the court ordered the FMC to review a prior decision that waived $510 in charges...
Material World: Kraig Expands Spider Silk Scope, Swedish Stockings Turns Tights Into Tables
Material World is a weekly roundup of innovations and ideas within the materials sector, covering news from emerging biomaterials and alternative leathers to sustainable substitutes and future-proof fibers.Inditex Backs US Agricultural Innovator Galy's Lab-Grown Cotton Kraig Biocraft Laboratories Kraig Biocraft Laboratories announced it hit full capacity at its current production center, which aligns with the biotech company’s expansion plans for the first half of 2024. The spider silk producers are now moving forward with planned investments into additional facilities. Kraig Labs said it began planning for this factory expansion during the spring trials after observing the “strong growth and robustness” of its new...
With ‘Brat,’ Charli XCX Becomes Fashion’s Summer Muse
In addition to providing the songs of the summer, Charli XCX’s already-iconic lime green album cover has ignited a fashion revolution.Can Skinny Jeans Reclaim Their Style Status? The 31-year-old British avant-pop and electronic superstar released her sixth studio album, “Brat,” a follow-up to her 2022 album “Crash,” last month. The 15-track album features her hit Y2K-inspired single “Von Dutch” with influencer Addison Rae, along with “Brb,” “Sympathy is a Knife,” “Club Classics,” and “360,” which features It Girl and Rivet 50 honoree Julia Fox in its music video. With its release, “Brat” made an immediate impact, debuting with 77,000 equivalent album units...
How Abercrombie Unlocked a Bigger and Brighter Future
This article was published in Rivet’s winter issue. Click here to read more. Denim Riding Momentum as Back-to-School Season Approaches Abercrombie & Fitch has undergone a significant transformation over the past several years. The former teen retailer has shifted its focus to an older customer, targeting women and men in their mid-20s and up, but the denim category remains a mainstay of the company. Although there are fewer stores today than at the peak—the company has closed some 130 units, accounting for around 1 million square feet, since the pandemic—the fleet is still substantial, numbering some 200 worldwide. Here, Corey Robinson, chief...
Port Houston Reopens in Aftermath of Hurricane Beryl
Port Houston resumed operations Wednesday after being closed for two days due to the arrival of Hurricane Beryl.US Ports See 'Strongest Surge in Volume' Since August 2022 The port is the largest in Texas and the fifth largest by annual container traffic in the U.S., and handles 73 percent of U.S. Gulf Coast container traffic. In a notice, the port also indicated that it will offer extended gate hours at its container terminals. On Wednesday and Thursday, the gates will remain open from 6 a.m. to 8 a.m. Central Time, with the ingate set to close at 7 p.m. On Friday, terminal...
Walmart Faces Class Action Alleging ‘Bait-and-Switch’ Pricing Practices
A federal appeals court has ruled that Walmart will be required to face a class-action lawsuit alleging that it charges consumers higher prices at the register than advertised on the shelf. Nike Shareholder Files Class Action Over Brand's Lackluster DTC Sales Strategy Yoram Kahn first filed the lawsuit in 2022, alleging that “Walmart’s shelf pricing frequently misrepresents the prices consumers are charged at the point of sale. As a result, consumers fall victim to a classic ‘bait and switch,’ and unknowingly overpay Walmart a higher price for the falsely advertised merchandise at checkout.” But in 2023, the Illinois district court where Kahn...
Manufacturers See Low Success Rates for Early Gen AI Initiatives
Last year, manufacturers went full steam ahead on generative AI. This year, many lack the same enthusiasm. How Etsy Approaches AI--Both Internally and Externally Just one in every five generative AI initiatives have been successfully deployed by manufacturers, according to new data from Lucidworks. That’s lower than other industries, wherein one in every four generative AI initiatives has been deployed with some success. About half—48 percent—of manufacturers using generative AI have reported higher cost savings because of those technology-led initiatives, the research shows. That’s just higher than the industry-agnostic average, which shows 42 percent of organizations have seen significant benefits from...
Two Years After UFLPA Rollout, DHS Official Reflects on Enforcement Efforts
The “opaqueness” of the global supply chain remains a significant challenge as lawmakers and enforcement officers continue to contend with the elevated threat of forced labor, according to U.S. Secretary of Homeland Security Alejandro Mayorkas.Legal Perspective: What's Next for Trade, Tariffs And Customs Compliance At an event in Washington, D.C. on Tuesday hosted by the Center for Strategic and International Studies, the DHS head said the other pivotal consideration is “[making] sure that we do not in any way impair or infringe upon legitimate trade” while trying to halt bad actors. Two years after implementing the Uyghur Forced Labor Prevention Act (UFLPA),...
Pangaia Announces New Linen Collection, Reinforcing Environmental Commitment
Pangaia is furthering its commitment to a more sustainable fashion industry with the release of its latest collection.G-Star Raw's Greenhouse-Grown Cotton: Study Results and Next Steps This week, the London-based apparel label announced its new linen collection, featuring five different lightweight, breathable 100-percent linen silhouettes like shorts and button-up shirts in five color ways. Linen is sourced from flax plants, a natural fiber that requires minimal irrigation, pesticides and fertilizers. According to Maria Srivastava, chief impact officer at Pangaia, by diversifying its fiber sources, Pangaia aims to reduce dependence on single crops and promote more sustainable agricultural practices. Additionally, this eco-friendly approach enables...
Vicunha’s VSA Project Reduces Water Use by 90%, Strengthening Sustainability Efforts
The denim industry is a major consumer of water, with production for a single pair of jeans using up to 4,000 liters, according to the research paper “Sustainability in Denim” in The Textile Institute Book Series. Meeting Escalating Disclosure Requirements Demands Physical Proof This high water usage comes from the cotton used as raw material, along with the dyeing, finishing and washing processes. Adding fuel to the fire, the wastewater generated by these processes can be highly polluting, containing large amounts of dyestuffs and alkaline chemicals. To address this issue and reinforce its commitment to responsible water consumption, Vicunha Services, a subsidiary of...
Authentic-Simon Joint Venture SPARC on CEO Hunt
SPARC Group LLC, the joint venture composed of brand management firm Authentic Brands Group (Authentic) and mall operator Simon Property Group, is on the hunt for a new CEO.Shuffle Board: Target Shakes Up C-Suite, Worldly Bolsters Exec Team “SPARC is searching for a dynamic leader who will drive brand growth, enhance operational efficiency, and deliver long-term performance,” an individual familiar with the process told Sourcing Journal. SPARC, the acronym for Simon Properties Authentic Retail Concepts, provides a second life to formerly distressed brands. Sources said former CEO Marc Miller left the company about five months ago. Miller could not be reached...
JD.com, Alibaba In Reported Bidding War for UK Parcel Delivery Firm
Chinese e-commerce giants JD.com and Alibaba are said to be vying for the services of British parcel delivery company Evri.Hurricane Beryl's Potential Fallout: Extended Wait Times at Texas Ports According to various reports earlier this year, Evri’s majority owner, private equity firm Advent International, has been working with advisers on strategic alternatives for the delivery company, including a potential sale of the business. The company is said to be valued at around 2 billion pounds ($2.56 billion) including debt. Both Chinese tech titans operate their own individual logistics units to fortify their massive e-commerce operations, with Alibaba managing the Cainiao segment and...
The Next-Gen Material Innovation Revolution is Now
Despite increases in secondhand shopping, consumers will never completely forego buying new garments, so the solution to a more sustainable fashion industry must come from better fibers. Material scientists have amped up their efforts in response, developing next-gen biomaterials with new zeal and knowledge, plus more novel textile-to-textile recycling methods.Inditex Backs US Agricultural Innovator Galy's Lab-Grown Cotton “Every year that goes by, we see more innovators entering the space and they are constantly getting smarter about what is needed, what works and what doesn’t.” These words, spoken by Suzanne Lee, CEO and founder of biomaterials consultancy and design firm Biofabricate in...
On the Ground at Milano Unica: Luxury Textile Fair Kicks Off With 18% Exhibitor Attendance Spike
Italian textile trade show Milano Unica kicked off its 39th edition Tuesday with 18 percent more exhibitors than last year’s event, and 22 percent more than its pre-Covid 2019 show.Dior Subsidiary Under Administration After Italian Labor Probe The three-day event has relocated to a larger location with the Fiera Milano Rho exhibition center on the outskirts of the fashion capital, which provides just under 25 percent more space to accommodate the growing interest. With 700 exhibitors—569 of which are participating in the show’s three exhibitions: Ideabiella, Moda In and Shirt Avenue, and the remainder divided between the special areas and the...
Back to School Starts Early This Year as Parents Plan to Spend More
Parents are already on the hunt for back-to-school (BTS) gear, and they’ll be spending an average of 21.8 percent more than they did in 2023.A Visit With J.Jill CEO Claire Spofford A back-to-school survey from commercial real estate firm JLL found that parents with annual income over $50,000 do not plan to cut back on their BTS budgets, while those with higher incomes said they plan to allocate a larger share of their budgets to discretionary purchases rather than school-required items. Parents also said they plan to shop earlier than usual, with 75 percent noting they expect to have already started...
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