State College was once a natural foods mecca. Here’s where vegans and vegetarians can go now

In our Uniquely stories, CDT journalists celebrate what we love most about Centre County, its history & culture. Read more. Story idea? cdtnewstips@centredaily.com.

Summer is the perfect time to visit central PA. We live in a big playground set in paradise. Timing a visit to the area requires keeping track of events that swallow up the town — the Ironman competition, Arts Fest, and the return of the student body before the thunder of football season. Savvy people who like to take a trip down Memory Lane plan their return to the region in the “off” times so they can touch base with their former selves.

In the ‘70s, State College was a natural foods mecca with Dandelion Market, New Morning Market and Café, and Sunseed Café offering vegetarian and vegan menus. “Moosewood Cookbook,” published in 1974, and “The Vegetarian Epicure,” published in 1972, were bibles that introduced a whole generation to natural foods that were tasty and nutritious.

It wasn’t always so. Before the ‘70s the State College food scene, except for the old guard like the Allen Room and the Tavern, revolved around stickies at the counter of the Diner, a grilled cheese from the lunch counter at Murphy’s on Allen Street, and HiWay Pizza and the Deli on Hiester Street. People’s Nation, a jumble of shops that occupied the site of the former Peoples National Bank, had a counter that sold food and there I had my first taste of “alternative” cuisine — which made a profound impression in 1972.

The ‘70s and ‘80s brought many natural food options to the area. Dandelion Market on Beaver Avenue was famous for the Dandelion sandwich, a thick slice of whole wheat bread, spread with mayonnaise, topped with shredded carrot, a pile of alfalfa sprouts, and Muenster cheese, toasted under a broiler. New Morning Market sold bulk natural foods and pre-made sandwiches like Hummus, Italian Tofu, and Miso Pate on whole wheat pitas loaded with sprouts.

Sunseed Café opened in 1975 and was a magnet for those who envisioned a gentler cuisine, free of animal products, and not aligned with the establishment that supported the Vietnam War. In those days, your food choices defined your political convictions, and the further you were from the mainstream, the purer your spirit.

The Granary and Nature’s Pantry were the natural food stores back then. The Granary closed in 2017 after 29 years in business but Nature’s Pantry is more robust than ever in its location on the Benner Pike. Owner Michelle Briggs is a member of the Independent Natural Foods Retail Association, and her buying power through the cooperative keeps prices very low compared to other stores.

Centre Markets is the latest purveyor of natural and local foods to enter the arena, with a store in the Nittany Mall while they work on a Pine Grove Mills location.

Today there is a juice bar downtown on Garner Street, K2 Roots , as well as a Roots on Beaver Avenue, part of a mid-Atlantic regional chain of “fast-casual” natural foods restaurants.

One notable vegetarian restaurant that has endured and thrived since 1999 is Webster’s Bookstore Cafe . Owner Elaine Meder-Wilgus is the driving force behind this community hangout, with Josh Ferko’s Stax of Trax vinyl business and the Tigers Eye Vintage Shop, run by Jenn Dashem, with clothing, jewelry and housewares. While in Webster’s check out the photo above the door to the restroom that was taken of the natural foods community at a St Paul’s Church dinner hosted by Frank Cianflone of New Morning Café in the late ‘70s.

If you are in that photo, you know what I am talking about.

Meder-Wilgus moved to State College in the ‘70s as a child and remembers the vibe of the old natural food restaurants and stores. She has recreated that same sense of community at Webster’s where flyers for all sorts of events are displayed. She also runs the Vegan Epicurious Supper Club, which seriously elevates the natural foods options in town. Forty diners choose from 20-22 items for a full-on fine-dining experience that is BYOB.

For a sample of the goodness possible in vegan cuisine, try the Barbecued Tofu wrap on her standard menu. It may prove to be a game changer — the tofu is meaty and lusciously drenched in a sauce sweetened with dates but with some spice.

Sample the vintage life at Webster’s and relive the good ole days!

Below are two recipes from the archives for sandwich spreads that were served at New Morning Café.

Miso Paté

Miso is a fermented soybean paste that is used as a seasoning. It is very rich in flavor and adds an umami sensation of deliciousness, thanks to its salty and savory nature. It is available at natural foods and international markets.

Makes about 2 cups

• 4-6 slices whole wheat bread, dried out
• one half cup water or vegetable stock
• one clove garlic
• one small onion, in quarters
• one half cup tahini (or make your own ground toasted sesame seed paste)
• one and a half tablespoons red or barley miso
• one tablespoon of regular (untoasted) sesame or sunflower oil
• one half cup parsley
• Dash each of thyme, rosemary, and sage

Tear up the dry bread and pour on the water or stock. Place the garlic in the bowl of a Cuisinart and mince it. Add the onion and pulse to mince. Add the soaked bread, the tahini, the miso, oil, parsley and herbs. Pulse until the mixture is homogenous. Taste and adjust for seasoning. If it is too strong for your taste, add more bread. Alternatively, this recipe can be made by chopping everything very well and mixing it together by hand. Allow the mixture to stand for an hour or overnight and serve with pita bread, shredded carrot and alfalfa sprout to make a sandwich, or with crackers as a spread.

Italian Tofu Sandwich Spread

Makes about 3 cups

• 1 clove garlic
• half a small onion
• one fourth cup parsley tops
• one fourth cup basil leaves
• one sprig of thyme, leaves only
• one sprig of marjoram, leaves only
• 1 teaspoon dried oregano
• one half teaspoon salt
• one third cup tomato paste
• 2 tablespoons Romano cheese
• 1 tablespoon olive oil
• one pound tofu, in chunks
• Whole wheat pita halves
• grated carrot
• alfalfa sprouts

Place the garlic clove in the Cuisinart and pulse until it is minced. Add the onion and pulse again. Add all the rest of the ingredients and process until smooth. Serve on pita bread, topped with shredded carrot and alfalfa sprouts.