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Sunset Magazine
This Is the Reason We’re Seeing Caviar Everywhere These Days
By Kelsey Mulvey,
11 days ago
Once upon a time, caviar was the culinary-equivalent of a diamond: Beautiful, rare, and only reserved for upscale events. Well, until recently, that is. While these fancy fish eggs once only made cameos at Michelin-starred restaurants , black-tie galas, and anywhere with an endless bounty of Cristal, a new class of innovative chefs have been working to revolutionize the revered roe. Suddenly, caviar is everywhere: Sprinkled over pastas, added to sandwiches, doused over ice cream—you get it, everywhere .
“Caviar has always had a place in fine dining, but within the past couple years diners’ appetite for it and where it’s been found now, in not so traditional places, has really opened up ways of using it,” explain Chef Brandon Jew , who is best known for his innovative Chinese-American cuisine at San Francisco hotspots like Mister Jiu’s and Mamahuhu . “It’s a fun luxury ingredient that I think has been stuck in boring blinis for too long.”
But just because caviar is becoming more commonplace doesn’t mean it’s become any less covetable. In fact, Chef Jew argues that caviar’s perpetual “wow” factor is what makes adding caviar to a menu so appealing. “Could be because of the Instagrammable bragging of nature or its instant association to luxury,” he shares. “It’s [also] a very simple addition for chefs to help increase check averages in the last couple years when staffing has been hard and inventories needing to be tight.”
Looking to think beyond the traditional caviar blini? Here are seven innovative eateries that are offering their own take on the delicacy.
Mamahuhu
Mamahuhu
Chef Jew is leaning into Mamahuhu’s elevated, fast casual reputation with its limited-edition Double Happiness Meal, a crispy, rice-battered sea bass sandwich paired with a half ounce of Tsar Nicoulai’s Estate white sturgeon caviar.
“The name is both a nod to the iconic Happy Meal, as well as a reference to the traditional Chinese character for ‘double happiness,’ often used with regard to marriages,” Chef Jew explains. “This is a marriage between Mamahuhu and Tsar Nicoulai Caviar.”
While supplies last, locals and traveling foodies can swing by one of Mamahuhu’s two San Francisco locations—one in the Inner Richmond and another in Noe Valley—to place their order. (Bonus points: The $49 caviar-laden sandwich comes with a caviar spoon, stickers, and a collectible box similar to a traditional fast food order.)
Holbrook House
All Day Social
Tucked in San Francisco’s Financial District, this buzzy bar might be known for making it possible to order a martini or glass of champagne with the simple flip of a switch, but make no mistake: There is plenty of caviar to be had. Though you can order heaps of White Sturgeon or Kaluga on its own, spring for a dynamic dish with Holbrook House’s caviar service with deviled egg. Sold for $21 for a trio, this spread of organic pasture-raised eggs, kewpie mayo, dijon mustard as well as salt and lemon is topped with Hackelback Caviar. (The miniature caviar service pictured here features duck fat hash browns, chives, and a deviled quail egg.) If you want to get fancier, you can upgrade to Kaluga or Golden Osetra for $20 or $30 extra, respectively.
SPQR
Stephanie Amberg
As far as we’re concerned, caviar goes with every cuisine. If you’re craving some Italian, SPQR in San Francisco has you covered. The eatery’s offerings include a scrumptious spinach raviolo with crema fresca, chives, and ACCA caviar, a $72 “semi-evergreen” dish with a $40 supplement. “The caviar eventually runs out until I make the next batch,” explains Chef Matthew Accarrino . “The hand-cut noodles are a high egg yolk dough with poppy seeds, glazed in a lemon butter and my ACCA caviar, which I make from scratch with only my hands.”
Gary Danko
Maren Caruso
“Every chef has a signature dish that guests love and look forward to enjoying with every visit,” Chef Gary Danko explains. Seafood lovers will find a lot to love about Danko’s pièce de résistance: Glazed oysters topped with white sturgeon from Tsar Nicoulai. As part of Chef Danko’s culinary repertoire for over 30 years, this delicacy was on the menu during his time as chef of The Dining Room at The Ritz-Carlton.
And now? It remains a must-order at his eponymous restaurant in San Francisco. The seafood power couple is deftly paired with leek fondue, zucchini pearls, and lettuce cream—offering a flavor explosion with every bite. The oysters are served as an appetizer à la carte at the bar for $44, while an entrée portion is available for $55.
Momofuku Las Vegas
Momofuku Las Vegas
Though the Bay Area might have the lion’s share of excellent caviar restaurants, there are plenty of other West-Coast eateries designed to dazzle. Case in point: Momofuku’s outpost in Las Vegas, which serves its popular Caviar Bun. Inspired by Momofuku’s fried chicken & caviar large format meal served at Momofuku Noodle Bar East Village, this roe-filled bun features buttermilk fried chicken, crème fraîche, and chives.
Ernest
Annie Rainero
The sweet versus salty debate is over: At Ernest , you can have the best of both worlds with an order of its Aonori Doughnuts and Kaluga Caviar. A new evergreen to the San Francisco hotspot, the $57 dish features yeasted doughnut holes that are made in-house, fried to order, and dusted with Aonori powder. You’ll also get Kaluga caviar served in half ounce increments over its house-cultured butter. “Our butter is cultured with yogurt then steeped with Époisses cheese and kombu for 24 to 48 hours before being finished with honey,” says Brandon Rice, chef and owner of Ernest. “Together, these give our honey butter a sweet, slightly funky, savory pairing for the caviar.” Presented in footed crystal serveware, this dish epitomizes the beauty of caviar: Luscious, fun, and a little over the top.
The Caviar Co.
Joseph Weaver
With a name like The Caviar Co. , it’s safe to say the Tiburon location is running rampant with a repertoire of roe. But if you’re looking to sidestep the basics—and indulge your sweet tooth—its Ice Cream and Caviar is not to be missed. Sold for $15, this pick is a dessert-equivalent to a classic caviar combo: The Caviar Co.’s classic white sturgeon caviar is sprinkled over a helping of crème fraîche ice cream. Talk about a double scoop of delicious!
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