Santa Cruz Firefighter Benefits from Mavericks Bathymetry

One of the remarkable things about surfing, especially big-wave surfing, is its accessibility. It's downright impossible to keep up with the groms going airborne at Lower Trestles, but (in theory) a competent surfer can paddle out on a pumping day, rub shoulders with legends, and have a dig at the wave of their life.

But just because anyone can grab a gun off the rack and paddle to the peak doesn’t mean anyone should. I once heard Mavericks pioneer/OG Jeff Clark say that if you were serious about surfing Mavericks, you should be able to surf maxing Steamer Lane and Ocean Beach without making a mistake. These waves are dangerous, and it takes a certain mental and physical capacity to handle these situations. Not only do you have to be an expert surfer, there’s a level of ocean awareness that must be honed.

Kyle Marty, a firefighter EMT with the Central Fire Protection District, knows his way around the ocean. In addition to his firefighting duties, Marty is also one of the district’s certified rescue swimmers. Each year certified swimmers must pass an annual test of 1,000 yards in the open ocean in under 20 minutes, according to the agency’s website .

Marty put himself in line with the Mavericks bowl on the day of the year in December 2023. He even tucked into the pocket and got blown out by the spit for good measure. Props to you Marty, and thank you for making the Santa Cruz beaches a safer place.

Related: FULL VIDEO: Surfers Brave ‘Biggest Day in Years’ at Mavericks