FUBU and Coogi’s runway resurgence headlines Atlanta Fashion Week

Often when casual retail consumers think of fashion capitals, New York, Paris, Milan and London come to mind.

Why not Atlanta?

It’s a question and muse for Angela Watts, founder and producer of Atlanta Fashion Week . “My goal has always been for Atlanta to be the fifth fashion capital of the world. Everything that we’re doing to produce the programming for this show, we’re positioning to be just that,” she said.

Watts, an Augusta native, is also founder of Ragtrade Atlanta, a creative agency that works with designers of color. She believes having Atlanta mentioned alongside other international style epicenters involves creating showcases for homegrown talent and bringing legendary brands to Atlanta.

In an effort to do that, this year’s ATLFW — happening Wednesday-Oct. 7 at Interlock Tower and other venues — features runway returns of iconic brands FUBU and Coogi after nearly two decades.

Though Atlanta has a strong claim to hip-hop’s seat of power and a firm grip on Hollywood, Georgia ranks near the bottom in arts funding. Watts hopes events like ATLFW will promote local talent and showcase the need for more investment in creative industries not tied to music, film and television.

ATLFW has existed since 2006 as runway shows and other events organized by Watts, but it launched as a multiday event in 2014. This year will feature designers representing Atlanta, Houston, Dallas, New York, Senegal, Ghana and the United Kingdom, gathering for installations, interactive pop-ups, panels and after-parties.

Credit: Courtesy

This year also marks the second-annual pop-up experience at Bloomingdales, where attendees can shop from more than a dozen emerging fashion and beauty lines. The two-day event brought in more than $70,000 in sales last year.

Speakers include Dennis Murphy, host of “The Conference Room” podcast, fashion influencer Monica Awe-Etuk, industry executive Edwina Kulego, and Keinon Johnson, an Atlanta music executive who created the popular “ Never Sold Dope ” T-shirts and hoodies.

During runway shows Thursday and Friday, models will strut the catwalk in Coogi and FUBU for the first time in almost two decades. Carlton Brown, Daymond John , Keith Perrin and Jay Martin cofounded FUBU in 1992. The four friends from Hollis, Queens, started out designing hats and tees before building a luxury streetwear empire that grew beyond $350 million in annual sales, eventually hitting $6 billion worldwide.

Like Watts, the FUBU team wanted to create lanes for Black designers to get into retail spaces, knowing representation in stores was essentially nonexistent.

“When we first started our company, the runway was the place for us to showcase who we are, what we had to offer to the market,” Brown said. “What we did with FUBU, we saw an opportunity. We saw a situation that needed to be addressed instead of complaining about it and then going back to our corner. We decided to do something about it.”

From the late 1990s to the early 2000s, FUBU — along with Pelle Pelle, Mecca, Enyce and others — held steady as a hip-hop-bred brands, highly coveted by artists and their fans. FUBU, with its collections of jerseys, denim and large logos, stood out. In Atlanta, artists from Lil Jon to Jermaine Dupri could be seen rocking the brand’s “Dirty South” jersey or Platinum FUBU threads.

“Atlanta has always been a huge supporter of FUBU, and it’s just only right for us to make our reentry into the market in Atlanta,” said Brown, who along with his FUBU co-founders received a proclamation from the city of Atlanta earlier this year. “We basically launched our business in Atlanta,” he said.

In 2003, FUBU decided to remove most of their line from U.S. retailers, focusing on overseas accounts. Not long after, FUBU acquired Coogi and expanded into licensing, real estate and hospitality. In 2020, the brand returned to its fashion roots, launching a new collection .

Making its official stateside return at ATLFW, Brown said longtime fans can expect classic FUBU looks while also witnessing how the brand evolved to embrace Generation Z consumers seeking ’90s-style nostalgia.

“We are who we are. Either you’re going to like it or you’re going to hate it,” he said.

Coogi, at its height, was known for knit sweaters made popular by rap stars like The Notorious B.I.G.

“I wouldn’t call this a comeback but rather an evolution — an exciting new chapter where we’re reconnecting with loyal fans and introducing Coogi to a new generation,” said Antoine Tutt, Coogi’s president of sales who spent years running various divisions within FUBU.

Tutt said to expect new takes on the signature knitwear and a wider range of apparel and accessories blending classic Coogi colors and textures with modern, street-inspired designs.

“Coogi’s story, especially after the FUBU team’s acquisition, shows the value of recognizing a brand’s heritage and leveraging it to stay relevant in changing markets,” Tutt said.

As a kid who grew up wearing FUBU, Watts agreed. “Its resurgence back to popularity excites me and makes me very happy again to be part of this story for FUBU and to see where it’s going to actually go,” she said.

Another ATLFW highlight will be the FUBU Archive. The installation, curated by Atlanta-based pop artist Jiggy Korean , explores FUBU’s rise and resurgence.

Jiggy Korean remembers growing up as an aspiring musician in Washington, D.C., before moving to Atlanta and seeing FUBU everywhere. “FUBU was one of those brands that represented the culture and the richness and the success and the creativity,” he said. “Having a background from music as a kid, watching videos, LL (Cool J), Busta Rhymes — everybody’s wearing this.”

An interior designer for restaurants, art galleries and other Atlanta spaces, he said the installation gives Brown and FUBU’s co-founders their flowers. “I want people to see who they are,” he said. “I wanted to tell the story of these four guys that molded, created and pushed this into our culture.”

Credit: Courtesy

Watts, who originally funded ATLFW with her own money, said more investment is needed for the next FUBU to potentially emerge from Atlanta.

Today she is a member of Mayor Andre Dickens’ arts advisory committee and ATLFW has sponsorship from BMW, Jack Daniel’s Gentleman Jack and Patron. There is also funding from Fulton County Arts and Culture.

“I find it interesting that we continue to be ranked low. Our creativity has brought in a lot of different companies and businesses and drove economics for the city,” she said, noting that ELEVATE Atlanta, Atlanta Art Week, Atlanta Art Fair , Atlanta Design Festival and the Atlanta Fashion Fair are all happening in the same month.

She also warned that without continued funding, Atlanta risks losing creatives who make these events possible.

“These artists choose to stay in Atlanta or stay in the state of Georgia to build their brand. They can go anywhere else,” she said. “They chose Atlanta for a reason, and we need to support these artists.

Atlanta Fashion Week

Wednesday-Oct. 7. $20-$359. Interlock Tower. 1042 Northside Drive. atlantafashionweek.co .

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