‘Even in the teeth of a gale, she has time for a hula’: the sailor breaking barriers on the Pacific ocean

In the middle of the Pacific Ocean, about 100 miles from Tonga, the winds began to intensify. Sail master Ivanancy Vunikura was helping lead the Uto ni Yalo, a vessel that had set off from Fiji days before.

“The weather completely changed; the waves went up to four-metre swells and the wind went up to 25 to 30 knots. It was not easy sailing against the direction of the wind,” Vunikura says.

After seven days at sea, the boat arrived in Tonga’s capital Nuku’alofa, on Sunday, in time for the Pacific Island Forum leaders summit . The Uto ni Yalo blends various Pacific traditional and modern boat designs and its journey was in part symbolic – representing the unity of the region gathering in Tonga. The group hopes to meet leaders at the summit and will also launch a project to share traditional boating skills and knowledge with Tongan communities.

Vunikura was one of two sail masters on the vessel – and the first Fijian woman to be given the role. Working alongside the captain, sail masters are skilled at navigation and understanding winds, currents and how to manage sails to power the vessel.

“We need more female sailors; there was an all- female crew that sailed from New Zealand to Tonga not long ago; it is beautiful to watch that, and sailing can be challenging, but we need to encourage women to partake,” she says.

The crew on the Uto fondly called her “Mama Uto” and Vunikura felt the challenge in what was “one of the hardest voyages” she had undertaken.

“I was emotional because you are being handed a responsibility that our forefathers once held; they navigated using the stars, the moon, and traditional knowledge … it was still a great honour,” she says.

Depsite 12 years experience as a sailor, Vunikura had to earn the trust of her colleagues. In Fiji, men are typically the ones who take on the sail master role and the 43-year-old had to prove herself.

“There were still some men that doubted my capabilities … I’m so happy they get to see that we can do it too.”

Members of the crew that journeyed from Fiji to Tonga under her guidance were impressed with her performance.

“She was an inspiration; in her manner, her antics, the way she ran her watch, I feel privileged to have had her on what I hope is my first international voyage with the Uto ni Yalo,” says crew member Ian Chute.

Vunikura loves to dance, and she breaks a move or two keeping everyone entertained, Chute says.

“Even in the teeth of a gale, she has time for a hula,” he adds.

The down-to-earth sailing master never dreamed that she would one day be a voyager. With no formal sailing training, she was introduced to the Uto by a friend. It took a few trips before she got over her sea sickness, but soon decided she never wanted to be away from the ocean for too long.

“I just love the ocean. I know it can also be scary, but I’m in love with the peaceful feeling of just being out in the ocean,” she says.

Now, the crew will spend time in Vava’u in Tonga, teaching people to sail, build canoes and travel between islands sustainably. They will begin their journey back to Fiji in late September.

Vunikura values the importance of protecting Indigenous knowledge of navigation and voyaging – and also hopes women will continue to play a role in this field.

“That is why I’m here, trying to pass down the knowledge and teach young female sailors to come out; the ocean is a beautiful place to be.”