Kojin 2.0

Kojin’s food is full of little surprises. They take the mundane and add a couple details that make their dishes pop: nori and roe in a caesar salad, and St. Germain beurre blanc with lacto-fermented barbecue sauce plated beneath the halibut. It’s a level of unexpected creativity that makes some flaws—like marginally overcooked proteins—feel more forgivable. You might remember Kojin’s first edition from its days as a pop-up in Little River, but this updated version (hence the “2.0”) feels like a permanent home, with a coffee table by the entrance, loveseats with plush pillows, and servers who feel like attentive hosts. Kojin has a la carte options as well as two tasting menus ranging from eight courses for $85 to about 12 for $145. We’ll be back to check those out (and have the key lime pie ice cream sandwich again).