Mori Nozomi

Considering this minimalist eight-seat omakase spot took over the longtime Mori Sushi space in West LA and there's a Nozomi Sushi in Torrance, you’d be forgiven for mixing up its name. Here’s an easier way to remember it: Mori Nozomi is one of the few high-end sushi spots in LA with a female head chef and kitchen staff—a rarity in the male-dominated sushi world. The 18-course omakase here costs $250, which, despite the investment, is fairly reasonable for the parade of Japanese sashimi, seared seafood, and nigiri served on gold-lacquered plates.

The sushi here leans traditional and is delicious across the board, though definitely on the understated, nuanced side—like listening to a public radio jazz program or watching a professional curling match. Highlights include a wedge of braised monkfish liver served warm over sushi rice, a rich risotto-like dish made with live Japanese hairy crab, and a snappy giant grilled clam presented taco-style in toasted nori. Expect plenty of fancy sushi standbys, too: chu-toro, golden snapper, and plump curls of Hokkaido uni. Our lone quibble is the pacing of the meal slows to a drip between certain courses, though the warm and generous service makes up for it (the elegant red bean mochi and matcha you’re presented at the meal’s end are nice touches). While we might not suggest it as a first stop for the omakase newbie, Mori Nozomi is a strong addition to the city’s luxury sushi roster that should be on any serious sushi fan's checklist.