Mano A Mano

Mano A Mano calls itself “a pasta project,” which might explain why this Logan Square spot (from people behind Asador Bastian and Andros Taverna ) feels like such a work in progress. Its decor style is unfinished dark old basement, with wood paneling and a few seashell lamps. And the inconsistent pastas don’t make the stale space worth it—the homemade pappardelle are too firm, and the squid ink tagliatelle is one-note. Red chili flakes make a recurring appearance, whether in a just-fine corn agnolotti or a much worse, very salty insalata verde salad. Mano A Mano also has a limited drink menu of a few Negronis and house wines by the glass—it’s all about the bottles here, even though the place won’t make you want to hang around.

Food Rundown

photo credit: Akane Matsumoto

Panino Alla Mortadella

The thick pile of mortadella makes this starter taste like a typical bologna sandwich with a little cream. The choux pastry is soft, but the sandwich itself is tough to split.

photo credit: Akane Matsumoto

Meatballs

When an Italian restaurant can’t properly season their meatballs, or make the accompanying sauce more exciting than Chef Boyardee’s, it’s a major red flag. Skip this.

photo credit: Akane Matsumoto

Pappardelle

The braised rabbit is fine, if a bit oily. But the noodles are oddly al dente, to the point of almost being crunchy.

photo credit: Akane Matsumoto

Agnolotti

Red chili flakes have a big presence on this buttery dish, as if to lazily spice up the very sweet cheese and corn pillows.

photo credit: Nick Allen

Gelato Alla Minuto

This OK dessert comes with creamy gelato, caramel, and corn cob kernels. When everything is in the same bite, it also tastes just like a vanilla ice cream cone you could order for cheaper at a certain Golden Arches five minutes up Milwaukee.