Healdsburg winemaker reveals secret behind top-notch Sauvignon Blanc

The Point Fire, which broke out June 16 northwest of Healdsburg and spread quickly in the iconic Dry Creek Valley wine region, forced Quivira Vineyards to evacuate. But winemaker Hugh Chappelle didn’t panic.

“From my experience, the longer you’re a winemaker the more relaxed you become,” he said. “After 30-plus vintages, it takes a lot to rattle you and you have experience to draw upon when Mother Nature throws you a curveball.”

While the Healdsburg winery was unscathed by the Point Fire, it wasn’t as lucky in 2020, when it lost between 30-40% of its grapes to smoke taint in the wake of the Walbridge Fire.

“Luckily for us, we picked a lot early, so (we) still made many fantastic wines in 2020,” Chappelle said. “But all of our later ripening grapes, including Grenache, Syrah, Mourvedre and Montepulciano, were completely lost.”

The resilient Chappelle crafted our Wine of the Week winner — the Quivira, 2022 Dry Creek Valley, Sonoma County Sauvignon Blanc ($20). Riding on crisp acidity, this striking wine has notes of lemongrass, nectarine and mineral.

The house style Chappelle is aiming for is a blend of Old World and New World wines.

“It’s definitely one foot Old World and one foot New World in terms of juxtaposing bright New World aromatics and flavors alongside a lower Old World alcohol balance and 100% natural acidity,” he said.

But Sauvignon Blanc can be challenging to produce.

“It’s an aromatic white grape, so it’s inherently more fragile and sensitive to oxidation than, say, Chardonnay or many other whites,” he explained (oxidation is a chemical reaction that happens when oxygen comes into contact with the alcohol in wine).

The wine varietal also can taste very different depending on where it’s made.

“You see this when you compare a Sonoma County Sauvignon Blanc to one from Napa Valley or France or New Zealand,” Chappelle said. “It can be an easygoing aperitif style, or something very serious.”

When crafting the 2022 Dry Creek Valley, Sonoma County Sauvignon Blanc, Chappelle used wood, in addition to a stainless steel tank, to ferment the wine.

“Our Sauvignon Blanc needs some wood but, at the same time, we don’t want any hint of oak,” he said.

To avoid this, the winery uses a mix of stainless steel, Acacia wood puncheons and old, neutral French oak, which allows the winemaker to “capture amazing freshness and purity, while at the same time broadening mouthfeel and texture so the wine is both juicy and lush on the palate,” according to Chappelle.

Founded in 1981 by Holly and Henry Wendt, Quivira Vineyards is now owned by Pete and Terri Kight, who also are the proprietors of Follette Wines in Healdsburg, Torbreck Vintners in Australia’s Barossa Valley and Escarpment Winery in New Zealand.

Chappelle, 62, has been the head winemaker at Quivira since 2010.

“What people would find most surprising about me as a winemaker,” he said, “is that I’m not a morning person, so I’m usually the one shutting the winery down and locking up at the end of the day.”

Tasting Room: Sauvignon Blanc

Here are four California picks from our wine critic.

Top pick

Quivira, 2022 Dry Creek Valley, Sonoma County Sauvignon Blanc, 13.1%, $20, 4.5 stars. Riding on crisp acidity, this Sauvignon Blanc has notes of lemongrass, nectarine and mineral. It’s striking.

Tasty alternatives

Clif, 2023 RTE Blanc, Napa Valley Sauvignon Blanc, 13.5%, 4 stars. With aromas and flavors of grapefruit, peach and pineapple, this Sauvignon Blanc is top rate. Pretty.

Duckhorn, 2023 North Coast Sauvignon Blanc, 14.1%, $32, 4 stars. This feminine Sauvignon Blanc has a supple texture and notes of citrus and tropical fruit. Nice length. Impressive.

Shared Notes, 2023 Les Pierres qui Décident, Russian River Valley, Sonoma County Sauvignon Blanc, 12.9%, $85, 4 stars. Stone fruit meets citrus in this lovely Sauvignon Blanc. Well crafted.

You can reach wine writer Peg Melnik at 707-521-5310 or peg.melnik@pressdemocrat.com. On X (Twitter) @pegmelnik.