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The Standard
Are British beauty brands now better than French? The 12 must-buys from the serum to the scent
By Madeleine Spencer,
19 hours ago
Evening Standard
The year is 1990, and I’m tucked up in my mum’s bed reading my beloved Just So Stories book. The pages smell faintly musty in the way that well-thumbed books always do, but the scent is soon replaced by the cloud of expensive skincare surrounding my mum as she emerges from the bathroom.
Her penchant for luxury meant that she always smelled expensive, and whenever she would go out I’d stealthily sneak a peek at her collection. Sisley. Chanel. Annick Goutal. Estée Lauder. Lancôme. It was a veritable treasure trove, and I vowed that as a grown up I too would waft around in the finest France had to offer.
My shelf is now populated by all those brands – but they’re increasingly being nudged into a tighter space by their British rivals. There’s a Victoria Beckham eyeliner that is unparalleled. I’m very partial to a Jo Malone London perfume that always garners compliments. And really a bath wouldn’t be anywhere near as agreeable an experience without a good glug of Neom’s bath foam.
It seems I’m not alone in my ardour for British luxury brands. Far from it; a Circana study recently revealed that sales of luxury British beauty brands increased by almost 11% over the past year, making them worth £1.53 billion, while France lagged behind with growth of 6%. And, yes, France is still ahead at £1.62 billion – but for how long if British brands continue to create covetable products?
Unsurprisingly, London’s at the epicentre of the great British beauty boom, with the British Beauty Council telling me that “London’s personal care businesses employ more than 40% of all those working in beauty in the UK – and it is responsible for over a third of the total income generated by England's beauty businesses. (6.5bn of 18.2bn total).”
To celebrate the best in British beauty, here are my top picks from my stash…
If you’ve yet to use one of these liners, you’re absolutely missing out. Creamy, yes. Easy to blend, yes. but then – and here’s the magic – once they’re on they jsut stay absolutely put, meaning the halo of black or gunmetal grey or sparkling gold just stays absolutely put until it meets eye make-up remover.
When Audrey Hepburn needed something to stop her lengths looking frazzled, trichologist Philip Kingsley stepped in with Elasticizer which, as the name suggests, helps reduce brittleness but also adds this sense of heft and health that hair that’s been processed too much lacks. All these years later, it’s still peerless.
You’ve got two West end performers to thank for this cult deodorant balm; when realising mainstream deodorants didn’t offer them the sensorial joys alongside the efficacy they wanted, they decided to make their own. The result: AKT, aka deodorant balms that are a pleasure to use, and that seriously, seriously work.
A friend who once stayed at mine described this as ‘elite’, by which they told me they meant the bubbles are tiny and cluster gently round knees emerging from the depths of the water, and the scent is perfection, all lavender and rosewood and calmness. I quite agree.
In honesty, I’d buy this handwash for the receptacle, which looks very chic next to my kitchen sink. That said, what’s within is also worthy of praise, cleaning hands gently but, as promised, without exacerbating tightness, while the scent is herbal and refreshing.
Charlotte Tilbury Pillow Talk Matte Revolution Lipstick
It’s impossible to think of the British beauty scene without thinking of Charlotte Tilbury, who has steered her brand to its iconic status in the past ten years. Perhaps the most feted of all her products is this Pillow Talk lipstick, a nude that contains just a hint of pink, that’s beloved by fans of barely-there lipstick.
Michael Van Clarke LifesSaver UV Leave-in Styling Treatment
If ever you’ve felt let down by styling products, if you feel they weigh your hair down, or are sticky, you must try Michael Van Clarke. All the products are well curated and well executed, and this one-stop styling treatment protects, smooths, adds shine, and generally makes hair healthier and happier.
Jo Malone London describe this as a modern classic, and they’re bang on the mark; I’d know this scent that opens piquant thanks to the lime, then releases herbs and pepperiness, anywhere. Unlike some perfumes that become tiresome when you smell them repeatedly, this one seems to never grow tedious, and I wouldn’t be surprised if I’m shuffling past people doused in it when I’m of a very advanced age.
It’s rare that I blanket recommend skincare; needs differ, and so do desires. But i’ve yet to meet anyone who wouldn’t like healthier, juicier skin, or a serum that achieves it more resoundingly well than this one. Think of it as stronger, bouncier skin, bottled. It can be used morning and/or at night, (I use it at both times), and you can use it alongside any other skincare.
Buy now £85.00, Mortar & Milk PHA Barrier Repair Serum
Oh I could’ve really put any of the Aromatherapy Associates oils here – they all command attention and deserve a place, but I have decided this is the one because it creates the sense of being outdoors in a vast, vast forest while I sit in my bath in the middle of London. Quite a feat.
While recently researching a piece on LED face masks , one of the founders of The Light Salon talked me through the reams of research and studies they had proving that of course there are different qualities of LED device – and The Light Salon uses the very best to reduce inflammation and boost collagen with each wear. I should probably mention that I find lying under the lights incredibly relaxing, like sleeping in the sun, but instead of damaging my skin, I’m improving it.
In an act of make-up wizardry, Lisa Eldridge has created a base that adds glow but isn’t too shiny, covers redness but not character of skin (my freckles are still decidedly there with each wear), and slips on with astonishing ease. I’ve worn it repeatedly since it launched and have no plans to replace.
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