The Week

Stout revival: a new chapter for the dark beer

By Irenie Forshaw, The Week UK,

10 hours ago

Beer drinkers are "turning to the dark side", as sales of stout continue to soar, said Adrian Tierney-Jones in The Telegraph .

No longer seen as the preserve of old men in pubs, the dark, velvety ale is appealing to a wider base of consumers than ever before. Tesco announced sales of stout have risen by 35% in the last year, reported Sarah Marsh in The Guardian , making the beverage the fastest-growing beer variety in the UK.

There's also been a slew of new entries to the market in recent years. The biggest is Brewdog's stout, Black Heart, which bosses say has "significantly disrupted" Guinness' 100-year grip on the market, reported Scott Reid in The Scotsman . Now Tesco's most popular stout after Guinness, it's already reached 12.6% of Guinness' sales in pubs and bars across the UK since launching in March 2023.

And Guinness itself also appears to have shaken off its "rugby lad" image, added Daniel Woolfson in The Telegraph , with sales surging among younger women. Even Kim Kardashian was snapped sipping a pint of the "black stuff" in a London boozer last year.

Originating in London in the 18th century, "stout" was first used as a term to describe a stronger version of porter (a dark, flavourful beer so called because it was said to be popular among the capital's porters). Prior to 1759, when Arthur Guinness set about creating his own stout at a brewery in Dublin, imported English porter was most popular in the city.

Stout "dominated" the British beer market until the end of the 20th century when its popularity dipped as lager began arriving from mainland Europe, said Andrew Ellson in The Times . The recent uptick in sales has been spurred on by the introduction of the Guinness Nitrosurge – a device that uses vibrating technology to release nitrogen, enabling customers to pour a pub-worthy pint from the comfort of their home – as well as the introduction of a popular alcohol-free alternative , Guinness 0.0.

Add to the mix the rise of independent breweries crafting exciting new stouts in a variety of styles and it starts to become clear why the flavourful ale is having a moment. Here are some of the best brands to try.

Siren: Hard Pour Broken Dream

Brewed with coffee and dosed with nitrogen, Siren's Hard Pour Broken Dream "could pass for a Guinness", said John Bett in The Mirror . "Smooth" and "velvety" with a subtle flavour, it's "got quite the punch" at 6.5% ABV.

£42.50 per 12-pack, sirencraftbrew.com

Loch Lomond Brewery: Silkie Stout

Scottish oats give Loch Lomond Brewery's Silkie Stout a "creamy texture" that perfectly complements the rich chocolate flavour and notes of roast barley, said Mark Dredge in delicious .

£33.50 per 12-pack, bestofbritishbeer.co.uk

Elusive Brewing: Morrisman

Morrisman "smells like a chocolate truffle but remains dry and roasty", said Dredge. Brewed with cacao nibs, cocoa and a hint of vanilla, the moreish stout is ideal with a slice of chocolate stout cake.

£4.40 per can, elusivebrewing.com

Ilkley Brewery: Nowt Mary

This "surprisingly full-bodied" alcohol-free milk stout from Yorkshire has a "creamy" mouth feel and "satisfying swish of milk chocolate", said Tierney-Jones in The Telegraph. Rich notes of cortado coffee are expertly balanced with a hint of caramel sweetness.

£20 per 12-pack, ilkleybrewery.co.uk

Hook Norton Brewery: Double Stout

Based on an original Victorian recipe, this "rich" stout has "aromas redolent of roast coffee beans" and liquorice, said Tierney-Jones, with a long, dry finish and refreshing hoppy aftertaste.