Paddle club takes on unpredictable water around Petit Manan in pursuit of puffins

I’ve organized a Penobscot Paddle & Chowder Society late June sea kayak trip to visit the puffins on Eastern Egg Rock in outer Muscongus Bay for many years.

Having navigated all of the primary routes in the past, this year I was unsure of my itinerary. Fellow Chowderhead, Norm Olsen, solved my dilemma. He proposed a sea kayak trip to another puffin colony off the Maine coast, Petit Manan Island.

Petit Manan Island is located about 2.5 miles south of Petit Manan Point in the Washington County town of Steuben.

The swirling waters around the island have a reputation for being treacherous and unpredictable. Of particular concern is a notorious underwater bar between the point and island that often causes turbulent conditions. Fog is another common problem and there are no convenient launching points to travel to the island.

Norm had a strategy to deal with the various obstacles. He identified a rare day when light winds and calm seas were forecast. Although some showers were possible, seasonal temperatures were predicted.

His plan included remaining on the east side of the bar, thereby avoiding any potential hazards of a crossing. For additional safety, he decided to follow the group in a 19-foot motorboat.

The closest public launching area for a trip to Petit Manan is situated on the Pigeon Hill Road in Steuben, five nautical miles from the island. The landing is surrounded by mud flats at lower tides and is only suitable for use for about four to five hours before and after high tide.  Completing the voyage during that time frame was the goal.

On the day before the scheduled trip, the coastal waters forecast added a chance of patchy fog to the weather equation. Since we would not attempt the long open water traverse in the fog, Norm devised an alternative coastal itinerary should that eventuality arise.

Seven kayakers and a two-person motorboat team met at the Steuben Landing two hours before high tide on a cloudy morning. The water was calm, winds nonexistent and Pigeon Hill Bay free of fog.

We could see the 123-foot Petit Manan Lighthouse, second tallest on the Maine coast, in the distance. Our quest to visit the puffins was on.

Recognizing the need to complete our journey in less than five hours, the entire group paddled at a vigorous pace from the outset. The lighthouse seemed a long distance away. The calm water allowed for friendly conversation as we progressed through the bay between Bois Bubert Island on our left and Petit Manan Point to the right.

Passing Egg Rock off the southern end of Bois Bubert, we emerged into open water. The kayaks stayed relatively close together to maximize safety.  From my vantage point, the area where the bar is located appeared free of turbulence.

Following a bearing of 180 degrees, we rapidly advanced toward our destination. Norm and my wife Nancy motored nearby, taking pictures and providing words of encouragement.

Shortly beyond a horseshoe-shaped collection of barren ledges called Green Island on our right, we approached the distinctive Petit Manan Island and impressive lighthouse. We began searching the water and sky for puffins.

Nearing the eastern end of the island, we spotted our first puffin. Then the handsome little seabirds were all around us. Fluttering above, floating in gentle swells and curiously staring down at us from ragged ledges.

We spent as much time with the entertaining sea parrots as our limited schedule allowed. Two tour boats visited during our stay.

Paddlers are prohibited from landing on Petit Manan, but we stopped for a much needed break on rocky Green Island. Norm correctly predicted we would likely find a colony of gray seals in a cove on the northern end. We counted approximately 25 seals.

Probably due to the change in tide, the bar had become unstable during our stay with the puffins. We quickly moved away and completed a pleasurable trek back.

We arrived at the landing just in time to avoid wallowing in mud; the perfect conclusion to a truly exceptional day.

My book, “Maine Al Fresco: The Fifty Finest Outdoor Adventures in Maine” narrates eight more exciting sea kayak trips along the Maine coast.