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The Sacramento Bee
‘Magical’ West Sacramento cafe embodies farm-to-fork with fruit grown on site. What I ate
By Brianna Taylor,
5 hours ago
About the Writer
Brianna Taylor covers affordability on The Bee’s service journalism team.
Tucked on a tree-lined street in West Sacramento sits a storybook cafe that embodies the region’s true farm-to-fork spirit.
The food pulls you in at Tree House Cafe on Third Street near the Ziggurat building , and the enormous backyard that produces fruit for its dishes makes you want to stay awhile.
“I’m happy this part of town has something,” said West Sacramento resident Han Vu, who asked me to try the restaurant as part of The Sacramento Bee’s reader-driven series On a Budget.
When Han is at Tree House Cafe, she said, “I’m right across the river from Sacramento but I’m also sitting in this orchard of trees.”
The restaurant, which opened its doors in 2019, is a nature lover’s haven, from the potted plants and fruit trees to the playful squirrels and lazy outdoor cats.
Ballads such as “Caminando Por La Calle” and “Habla Me” by Gipsy Kings set the serene tone of the place on a sunny Friday morning in July.
The restaurant served a revolving array of early morning customers with orders ranging from avocado toast and salads to burritos and coffee drinks.
Look inside West Sacramento restaurant
Location : 630 Third St., West Sacramento
Stay at Tree House Cafe long enough and it’ll make you feel like you’re inside someone’s private backyard. That’s no coincidence.
Trees around the property were planted by Filipino immigrant Bonifacio Ulatan starting in the early 1940s, Ulatan’s daughter Monica Guillen told me via text message.
He and his family lived at the home at 630 Third Street until racial discrimination forced them to move — first to a tent along the Sacramento River, then to farmworkers’ housing in what is now Linden Acres.
“They’re daddy’s trees. He planted them. A bit of him went into each of them. And I still see him,” Guillen previously told The Sacramento Bee.
The family’s West Sacramento home was eventually converted into a popular restaurant destination with a lush outdoor patio.
The man behind Tree House Cafe is owner Jeff “Fro” Davis, a restauranteur with an unapologetic confidence that works in his favor.
After opening restaurants across the Sacramento region — including Sushi on the River in Natomas and Tokyo Fro’s in Arden Arcade, both now closed — Davis said he wanted to create a “magical” space for customers.
Ulatan’s fruit trees were part of that plan.
“I ... want people to experience the incredible feeling of sitting under these trees in the summertime,” Jeff told me via phone. “It’s almost magical.”
What’s on the menu at Tree House Cafe?
Fruit grown on the property appears in a variety of dishes.
Persimmons are plucked for creations such as baked goods and sauces, while mandarins and apples are destined for fruit and yogurt bowls.
Pomegranates are harvested for dishes such as grilled halibut and paninis.
One of Han’s favorite meals is the Yo Adrian sandwich made with marinated chicken breast, provolone, tomatoes, red onion and aioli.
She also enjoys the BLTA sandwich, featuring bacon, lettuce, tomatoes, avocado and cheddar piled on a brioche bun with a healthy slather of gochujang aioli
The Korean-inspired condiment is featured in a couple of sandwiches: the Black Unicorn, made with bean mash and pickled onions, and the Egg Pig’Cante with bacon and mint habanero sauce.
Breakfast offerings include a burrito with bacon or ham, eggs, tater tots, cheddar, jack and sweet peppers.
I settled on the $15.50 BLTA and a $4 unsweetened iced hibiscus tea. My total was $24.28 after an 8.25% sales tax and tip.
It took about 10 minutes for my order to be called. In the meantime, I took a gander at the backyard, which was overflowing with greenery.
A sign posted to the outside of the kitchen warned people of “occasional bouts of foul language, loud rock music or a combination of both.” Noted.
I thought about what Han told me about the space: It’s a nice place to relax.
Han and her family immigrated from Vietnam to Sacramento in the 1970s after the end of the Vietnam War. She’s lived in West Sacramento for the past 17 years and loves it.
“There’s not a lot that draws people from Sacramento to West Sacramento,” she told me. “I think (Tree House Cafe) is a cute detail.”
Once my food was placed in front of me I wasted no time in trying the sandwich. Then I moved on to the tea, which was light but full of flavor.
The sandwich took me by surprise.
Heavy in my hands, the cross-section revealed a perfect melody: three pieces of thick crispy bacon, crunchy lettuce, tangy tomatoes and a cheddar cheese skirt. The brioche bun was toasted panini-style with familiar grill markings.
It was cheesy, savory and decadent.
After about three hours of nibbling and reading the final chapters of the novel “It Ends With Us” by Colleen Hoover — I highly recommend it — I cleared my table and headed out.
There are also five different breakfast options, ranging from a $11 avocado toast to a $13.65 burrito.
Tea served at Tree House Cafe comes from Sacramento-based Temple Coffee Roasters , a business with eight locations in the region, while the restaurant has two sources for coffee: Temple Coffee Roasters and Insight Coffee Roasters, based in West Sacramento.
The drink list includes a cold brew, espresso, latte and cappuccino. Hot and iced tea are also available.
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