Louis Vuitton S/S 25 Is Rethinking What It Means to Be "Soft" in Fashion

For Nicolas Ghesquière's 10th anniversary at Louis Vuitton, the designer presented a story that wove past and present. By placing a large reflective tent in the Cour Carrée, one of the main courtyards of the Louvre, he highlighted the surrounding French Renaissance columns and sculptures. The runway itself, which was a mosaic of vibrant monogrammed trunks, highlighted his constant dedication to blending the brand's traditional craftsmanship with contemporary aesthetics.

It wouldn't be a Ghesquière design without taking risks, which was evident in the looks that opened the collection—18th-century silhouettes like strong shoulders, pulled-in waists, and peplum hems were styled with biker shorts and chunky sandals that brought them back to the present. Despite pulling inspiration from the Renaissance, he didn't let that box him in, also adding '80s-inspired skater skirts and ruffled dresses to the offering. The five final looks featured a collaboration with French artist Laurent Grasso from his series Studies Into the Past , in which modern and celestial phenomena are inserted into Renaissance paintings, proving there was no shortage of historical and futuristic references at Louis Vuitton S/S 25.

Without context, these combinations might feel confusing to some, but when you take a look at his history of the designer's futuristic undertones and how it's changed the course of fashion in the grand scheme, there's a strong sense of direction found in the decisions. “I think if you don’t put yourself in aesthetic danger every season, you’re not playing the game of fashion," he told Vogue about his risk-taking before presenting the 2025 collection.

To get an even closer look at the latest collection from Louis Vuitton, keep scrolling.

Zendaya Stole the Show

Would it be fashion month without a Zendaya sighting? As one of the faces of the brand, the actor arrived at the 2025 show wearing an exaggerated blazer and ruched bubble skirt, a powerful retro look that could only be conjured up by the mind of Law Roach. On theme with the show's references, the boxy blazer with oversize lapels was reminiscent of the suits worn by working women in the '80s. To carry the theme of finding innovation and beauty in sartorial differences, contrast was created with the pairing of a bubble-hem miniskirt. Even wearing parts of a striking suit, Zendaya managed to emulate the "soft power" that was centered in the 2025 collection.

An Ode to the Trunks

Innovation is key to bringing a luxury brand into the future, but it's always important to make sure the essence and history of the brand is not completely lost, which is never the case with Louis Vuitton. The runway was made of multicolored trunks, reminding the audience of the brand's beginnings as a luggage and packing shop founded in Paris in 1854. Vuitton's trunks, which have been continuously sought after as the epitome of true luxury, have become synonymous with the brand's craftsmanship, so it only made sense to include this historical element in the time-travel journey Ghesquière took attendees on.

Clashing Prints, Peplums, and Long Necklaces Dominated

In the show notes, Ghesquière declared that he was mirroring a form of "soft power" but aimed to re-create the standard of what it means to be soft in fashion. His version of softness is found in the movement and fluid nature of how each piece is designed, like coats and jackets designed to feel unstructured and airy like blouses. Each look played with geometry, asymmetry, texture, and prints—1920s necklaces were paired with striped gowns, tweed-like peplum jackets were layered over colorful breeches, and lace dresses were dramatized with feather-adorned shoes.

After all, why couldn't chaotic prints and color-blocking also be blended with exaggerated balloon sleeves and 3D embellishments? When these boundaries are stretched, it makes room for a future of diverse design possibilities we may not even think to imagine currently. "Sartorial soft power can also be a striking back-and-forth between two contradictory yet harmonious opposites. The suppleness of structure. Intractable lightness. Mastering vibrations. Spidery depths. Ethereal opulence. Razor-sharp delicacy. Resolute femininity. The mechanics of fluidity," he wrote.

All Eyes on the Bags

The handbags are always a focus at Louis Vuitton, and along with the clothes, they managed to continue to blend traditional and contemporary designs. Iconic silhouettes like the Speedy were included but modernized with tricked-out details like a bold chunky chain and crocodile handles. The GO-14 also made an appearance on the runway but with a maximalist makeover, presented in sleek leather and adorned with metal fringe scattered across the bag and silver chain weaved into the quilting pattern of the bag, adding dramatic flair to the classic design.

Newer styles were also sprinkled in, like a bag that offered the same east-west shape as the Speedy but was crafted with a softer and more fluid leather, leading to a slouchier effect. Double-bag layering has been spotted plenty on the runways this year, and Vuitton’s take included large structural totes in neutral leathers and LV-monogrammed shoulder bags in punchy colors like fuchsia and magenta.

More Notable Attendees

The venue was also surrounded by screaming K-pop fans, there to cheer on Blackpink's Lisa, who was named Louis Vuitton's global ambassador earlier this year. As she grew further into the fashion circuit, many luxury partnerships were always suspected, but the superstar had been dropping hints about the partnership with Louis Vuitton through her outfits. With her recent solo expedition away from Blackpink, Lisa has leaned into the full rock-star look, evident by her outfit choice for the show, which featured an oversize leather trench and bag decked out with LV charms. Along with Zendaya and Lisa, other notable attendees were Cate Blanchett, the Haim sisters, Ana de Armas, and Who What Wear's October cover star, Hoyeon Jung.

WHO: Lisa

WHO: Cate Blanchett

WHO: Hoyeon Jung

WHO: Jaden Smith

WHO: Da'Vine Joy Randolph

WHO: Ana de Armas