Chardonnay is a polarizing wine grape. Some absolutely love it, and others will declare “ABC – Anything BUT Chardonnay.” But according to Frank Family Vineyards winemaker Todd Graff, “ When I hear people say ‘ABC’, I actually see our sales go up !” And rightfully so. Chardonnay is a neutral grape that can be made in different styles, as Frank Family does.
“ I love Chardonnay ,” said Todd Graff. “ I mean, I love all wine, but I really love Chardonnay .” He continued, “ Chardonnay is a pretty neutral variety that can be made in many styles. It is not predetermined. In my opinion, it works well with oak, whether new or used. I like the age-ability of Chardonnay, its acidity, and its richness. There is a reason that it is one of the most popular white wines in the world. It can grow almost everywhere in the world and then we winemakers get to put our fingerprint on it .”
And Todd has been putting his fingerprint on Frank Family wines since 2003. A graduate of UC Davis, Todd has spent more than 20 years defining Frank Family’s reputation as a world-class producer of Napa Valley Cabernet and Chardonnay.
Established in 1992, Frank Family has more than 380 acres across the best AVAs within Napa Valley. The Winston Vineyard, the estate vineyard, was purchased in 1990 and is in Rutherford AVA. The Benjamin Vineyard, purchased in 2012, is also in Rutherford AVA, and the S& J Vineyard, purchased in 2000, is in the Capell Valley. It is from these three vineyards that Cabernet Sauvignon, Sangiovese, and Zinfandel are grown. But Chardonnay is Frank Family’s largest production and Chardonnay comes from the Lewis Vineyard, purchased in 2000, in the heart of Napa-Carneros. In addition, Frank Family has built long-term relationships with vineyard partners, many of whom have worked with the winery for nearly a decade. Today, Frank Family is proud to work with some of the most respected Chardonnay growers in Carneros including Beckstoffer and Sangiacomo.
At Frank Family, different styles of Chardonnay are made. There is sparkling blanc de blanc as well as a late harvest style. But it is across the still wines that we can see how the site is reflected in Chardonnay, even in challenging years like 2022.
2022 was a unique year. A heat dome sat over Napa Valley reaching over 100-degree days for 10 days. But despite the challenges of the vintage, the 2022 Chardonnays came through fresh, bright, and delicious.
Frank Family 2022 Lewis Vineyard Reserve Chardonnay (SRP: $85)
Named after Rich and Leslie Frank’s eldest grandson, Lewis Vineyard is in the cool heart of Carneros. The grapes come from the two highest knolls on the vineyard where they grow in clay loam soils and enjoy morning fog, afternoon breezes, and cool nighttime temperatures. The wine offers notes of pineapple, lemon, and stone fruits. On the palate, the wine is fresh and bright. The biggest surprise is that the wine is fermented and aged for 11 months in new French oak barrels. But you would never guess that when tasting the wine. The wine has lots of acidity that lingers on the palate, making the mouth water and belying the amount of new French oak. This wine proves we cannot assume what a wine will taste like when we hear “new oak” because this wine is elegant and balanced with a bright lift.
Frank Family 2022 Beckstoffer Carneros Lake Vineyard Reserve Chardonnay (SRP: $85)
The Beckstoffer Carneros Lake Vineyard is located across the road from Frank Family’s Lewis Vineyard. The site is windy, foggy, and cool with clay loam soils like Lewis Vineyard but the nose of the wine is richer with red apple, citrus, honeysuckle, and macadamia notes. This wine spends 11 months fermented and in 40% new and 60% once-filled French oak barrels. On the palate, the wine is rounder on the midpalate but also has beautifully delicate acidity.
Frank Family 2022 Sangiacomo Vineyard Reserve Chardonnay (SRP: $85)
The Sangiacomo Vineyard is on the Sonoma Coast AVA which overlaps with the Sonoma part of Carneros. The site, set on a rolling slope with clay soils, is influenced by the cooling effect of the Pacific Ocean and a combination of summer fog, warm days, and a long growing season. The nose of the wine offers notes of lemon and tangerine. The wine is fermented and aged for 10 months in 25% new and 75% once and twice-filled French oak barrels. On the palate, the wine is energetic and fresh with persistent acidity and a mineral finish.
A celebration of the Carneros region, this wine is a mix of the Carneros vineyards, Lewis, Beckstoffer, and Sangiacomo. Each block is treated separately. Some blocks have naturally high acidity and others do not. The level of malolactic fermentation therefore varies from block to block. The wine is barrel fermented and aged for 9 months in 34% new, 33% once, and 33% twice-filled French oak. The purpose of treating each block separately is to make a balanced wine as this wine is with yellow apple, citrus, butterscotch, and spice notes. On the palate, the wine has a creamy midpalate with acidity that rushes across the palate.
The Frank Family Chardonnays are balanced, offering flavors, depth, acidity, structure, and richness. It is understandable why winemaker Todd Graff loves Chardonnay. I know I do as well.
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