Getting lip filler is a personal choice, but it’s an increasingly common one among those of us who want a plumper-looking pout. However, one concern that those considering this 'tweakment' may have is how the structure and shape of our natural lips may be altered after filler use. Which begs the question, do lips wrinkle after filler is dissolved or wears off?
The question of post-filler wrinkling is a common query that aesthetic professionals encounter from their patients. There is a clear concern about how injections may impact natural lips when filler wears off or is intentionally dissolved in the clinic. But are these fears warranted? I spoke with two aesthetic professionals to establish the truth.
Is it common for lips to ‘wrinkle’ after filler dissolves or wears off?
It's first important to distinguish between the natural breakdown of filler – which happens naturally and over time – and the decision to have filler dissolved by a cosmetic doctor, which is an instant approach.
The latter often occurs because a person is not happy with their filler and wants to remove it all (either for good or to 'start again'), rather than wait for it to gradually dissolve. Another reason a patient may choose to have their filler dissolved is if the lips have been overfilled and filler migration may be occurring as a result.
Does filler wearing off or being dissolved always result in 'wrinkly' lips?
If lip filler simply dissolves over time since first being injected, wrinkling is less likely. “When dermal filler naturally breaks down, this happens over a long period of time, leaving tissues time to readjust,” explains aesthetic doctor Dr. Alicia Gonzalez-Fernandez .
However, for those who opt to have their filler dissolved instantly by a doctor, results may differ. “The enzyme used to break down dermal filler is called hyaluronidase, which breaks down hyaluronic acid – the filler turns from a gel-like blob into a droplet that is watery in consistency, which the body then excretes,” says Dr. Christine Hall , cosmetic doctor at TakTouk clinic and NHS GP. She adds that this process “only works on fillers that are comprised of hyaluronic acid ,” which most are these days.
“The biggest problem with hyaluronidase is that it can’t distinguish between hyaluronic acid in the filler and the hyaluronic acid that is naturally occurring in your skin – so you do lose some of your own hyaluronic acid to a certain extent," she continues. "This is where the amount of hyaluronidase used [and the injector's technique] is really important.”
In these cases, therefore, lips may not go back to their original state, as the patient may desire. “This is why it is not unusual for patients to find their lips became smaller and more dehydrated – and therefore more wrinkly than before any dermal filler treatment," says Dr Gonzalez-Fernandez. "The intuitive idea is that after dissolving lip filler, lips would go back to exactly what they were before they were treated with dermal filler in the first place, but this is not the case in most instances."
Dr. Hall adds that, as a result, “in the vast majority of cases, after dissolving lip filler, lips need to be refilled a few weeks later. In my experience, wrinkling after dissolving is common, particularly where patients have much fuller lips and want to revert to a more natural look, so get a lot of their filler dissolved."
It's therefore incredibly important that you choose your injector wisely and see someone qualified and experienced to ensure your lips are never overfilled or filled too quickly. Slow and steady wins the race and you can naturally build up to more filler over time if you so choose – otherwise there is a very real possibility of lip wrinkling if things go wrong and filler thus needs to be actively dissolved quickly.
How can you combat lip wrinkling?
As mentioned, the most important factors are going slow and choosing your practitioner wisely. However, the experts agree there are ways to help maintain the natural integrity and structure of the lips for those who already have filler or who have it removed.
“The easiest thing to do is make sure your lips are hydrated,” says Dr. Hall. “And I mean hydrated from the inside and the out, as signs of dehydration will result in the fine lines and wrinkles not only in your lips but your skin in general. Drink plenty of water and use hydrating lip balms and products applied topically to your lips.”
Dr. Gonzalez-Fernandez recommends products that are “rich in peptides and antioxidants” to restore lips. She also mentions that there are certain treatments you can consider if lip wrinkling becomes a concern post-filler. These most notably include polynucleotides , particularly for the area of skin surrounding the lips. “[They] are very popular at the moment and for very good reason,” she says. “They are an injectable biostimulator that stimulates our cells to produce collagen and elastin, which improves skin quality. Improving the skin quality in the area that surrounds the lips provides a good frame and support for the lips themselves.”
Hydrating and plumping lip products to invest in
As both Dr Christine and Dr Alicia agree, it is key to keep lips hydrated and healthy post-filler. There are several hydrating, plumping lip products worth trying to keep your pout in prime position.
Teoxane 3D Lip Nourishing & Plumping Care
RRP: £35
Designed specifically for use on lips post-clinic treatment, Teoxane’s 3D Lip Treatment contains plumping and nutritive ingredients (such as their patented TEOXANE RHA®, a crosslinked hyaluronic acid that also is found in some forms of filler) to help lips recover and look healthy.
The INKEY List Tripeptide Plumping Lip Balm
RRP: £11
The INKEY List’s sell-out lip balm broke the internet when it first launched, thanks to its seemingly unique ability to plump lips over time (which was said to rival subtle filler). Packed with peptides, the product now also comes in a few tinted versions, so the choice is yours.
SkinCeuticals H.A. (Hyaluronic Acid) Intensifier Serum
RRP: £115
It may not be a lip balm, but I’ve always used this serum on my lips as well as all over my face thanks to its unique ability to kickstart hyaluronic acid production in wherever you apply it, which both helps to maintain existing filler (made from hyaluronic acid) and keep things hydrated.
Ole Henriksen Pout Preserve Peptide Lip Treatment
RRP: £17
Another peptide-heavy treatment that will nourish and restore lips, Ole Henriksen’s balm also boasts kokum and mango seed butter, cloudberry oil and açai sterols on its impressive ingredients list.
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