Homeless Cafe in Fresno Offers Free, Dignified Dining Experience with Restaurant-Style Meals

Tables were full at Poverello House, which serves people experiencing homelessness in Fresno, California. Although the nonprofit provides hot meals three times a day to anyone in need, every few months they would do something special, offering a chef-prepared menu, including cuisine like salmon and steak, and had servers wait on the guests.

At the end of this particular night of dining, a woman came up to Zack Darrah, Poverello House chief executive officer, and handed him a note before walking away.

Thanks. It’s nice to feel normal, the humble note said.

Wow, Zack thought, his heart moved. Feeling a call from God, he realized, We should step up and do this all the time.

Loving tradition

After facing many challenges, like updating the old kitchen with $2.7 million in raised funds and the COVID-19 pandemic, in January of 2024, Zack opened Papa Mike’s Café to serve free restaurant-style meals to people in need in the community.

The café carries on a tradition started by “Papa” Mike McGarvin, a bighearted man who, in 1973, began passing out peanut butter sandwiches to hungry people nightly in downtown Fresno.

Mike had been addicted to drugs and homeless in San Francisco, but he discovered faith in God and turned his life around when he encountered a Franciscan monk who operated a coffee shop called Poverello. Mike got sober and moved to Fresno.

Mike became beloved in the Fresno community and was looked up to like a father figure to people on the streets, which inspired the “Papa Mike” nickname. He got a storefront for his charitable mission and started offering different types of food to the people in need. The operation became Poverello House, named after the San Francisco coffee shop that had served as his catalyst. The nonprofit expanded to its current building in the 1990s.

Zack couldn’t think of a better way of honoring Papa Mike, who died in 2017, than with the free café. Papa Mike’s widow, “Mama” Mary McGarvin, who still works for the organization, couldn’t agree more.

“This was his idea,” says Mary, 72. “He wanted the people who are guests to feel like they were worthy of anything anyone else is worthy of.”

Served with dignity

Making diners feel valued is what makes Papa Mike’s Café special. Patrons get a choice of five to seven entrées, plus side dishes at each meal, served from a made-to-order, restaurant-style kitchen, rather than volume meals and batch cooking, as is the norm in most shelters and soup kitchens.

They place their orders at a window, then get served at their tables, which Zack notes is very empowering. Kids get children’s meals with a toy and coloring book. Many workers at the café—which requires at least 50 volunteers a day to run—wear a shirt with the slogan: “Where dignity is the main course.”

Papa Mike’s attracts mostly people experiencing homelessness, but working people who make such low wages that they struggle to buy groceries and pay rent are also regular customers. Zack has seen people cry with joy and gratitude. Many of them have never been able to take their family out for a regular sit-down restaurant meal.

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“How’s the food? How are you doing?” Zack asks diners as he walks the floor.

“We really know that you love us when we come eat here,” a man named Floyd told Zack, a grateful smile on his face.

“I feel like I matter when I’m here!” many other people have said.

Zack feels moved and motivated to keep working hard at Papa Mike’s Café, which costs about $5,000 a day to run, when he sees how it touches people’s lives and meets a great need in his community.

“It’s incredible and heartbreaking at the same time to see families come in and eat around the dining table,” says Zack, who is also a Baptist minister. “This is not just help; it’s help that’s done in a way that really affirms the dignity and respect that all people want and deserve.”

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