A Dermatologist Rates Different Natural Hairstyles

Styling and managing Black hair is an art form. When you aren’t sure what your hair goals are, it can feel more like a struggle. However, identifying your goals can help you determine the best way to get there. Many Black women opt for natural hairstyles to restore their health.

While they can be beneficial, not all natural hairstyles are great. However, there are tips for natural styles to maintain and protect your hair . Dr. Oyetewa Oyerinde , dermatologist and director of Skin of Color Clinic at Baylor Dermatology, explained that not all natural hairstyles are created equal.

“Natural hairstyles vary in impact due to differences in tension, manipulation, and maintenance,” she told 21Ninety. “Some styles promote growth and health by reducing stress on the hair and scalp, while others may cause damage if not done or maintained properly.”

What to Consider When Going Natural

There are key factors to consider when picking a natural hairstyle:

• Tension: Is there too much tension or tightness on your scalp? Tight styles can cause traction alopecia.
• Manipulation: How much manipulation will this style require? Frequent styling can lead to breakage.
• Moisture Retention: Are you able to moisturize hair easily and regularly? Styles that allow easy access to your hair strands for regular moisturization promote healthier hair.
• Scalp Health: Can you access your scalp easily to clean it? Styles should allow the scalp to be easily accessed and regularly cleaned. This reduces inflammation in the scalp that can lead to hair loss.

Do Natural Styles Help or Hurt?

According to Oyerinde, a hairstyle that is truly protective allows for infrequent, low manipulation. One of Oyerinde’s favorite natural hairstyles are two strand twists without extensions). Once the style is set, this look requires low manipulation. It usually doesn’t add tension to the edges. It also allows easy access to the scalp and doesn’t cause breakage from extensions rubbing on the ends.

“This is one of my favorite styles for hair and scalp health and length retention,” she said. “When I do this style on myself, I typically braid about 1-2 centimeters at the roots before starting to twist, which also allows me to wash my twists in the style without getting significant frizz.”

However, Oyerinde explained that if someone braids the roots too tightly, it can lead to traction alopecia. Another thing to look out for is if you are constantly putting your twists into a tight bun. Leaving the twists in too long can lead to matting and tangles over time.

“Any style can become unsafe if it is too tight, too small, left in for too long, or if you are not washing or moisturizing your hair regularly,” she said.

How to Grade Natural Styles

When considering the health of certain styles, Oyerinde uses the following grading rubric:

• A – Very likely to promote hair health
• B – Generally safe but can be harmful
• C – Potentially harmful but can be safe if done correctly
• F – Very likely to cause harm

Here’s a look at how Dr. Oyerinde would grade popular natural hairstyles in order from best to worst. Keep in mind that most styles don’t fall perfectly into one category. It all depends on how a stylist does your hair and how you maintain it.

Grade A

• Two-strand twists – low tension, low manipulation, excellent scalp access, and the ability to moisturize the ends
• Headband wigs – low tension (especially on edges), low manipulation (hair typically braided underneath), excellent scalp access (daily removal of wig)

Grade B

• Baldie braids – Potential for traction alopecia if the hair is pulled too tightly into braids. Otherwise, low manipulation and no chance of shaft breakage from extensions rubbing as long as done without added hair.
• Twist outs – Moderate level of manipulation, moderate risk of tangles and dryness as time goes by in the style. No tension, excellent scalp access.
• Knotless braids – Little to no tension and excellent scalp access. Risk of breakage due to synthetic extension fibers rubbing against the hair shaft.
• Locs – Excellent for length retention. No hair is lost due to shedding or breakage. Risk of significant tension/traction from re-twists.

Grade C

• Wash ‘n Go – Moderate level of manipulation, high risk of tangles and dryness as time goes by in the style. No tension, excellent scalp access.
• Sisterlocks- Excellent for length retention. No hair is lost due to shedding or breakage. High risk of significant tension/traction from re-twists.
• Box braids – High risk of tension at the frontal edges and crown. Risk of breakage due to synthetic extension fibers rubbing against the hair shaft.

Maximizing Natural Hair

Before selecting a natural hairstyle, it is critical for Black women to understand their hair goals and the state of their hair currently. They must also understand how to properly care for natural hairstyles to prevent damage, maintain moisture and promote self-love.

“Embracing and caring for natural hair fosters self-love and confidence in one’s natural beauty,” Oyerinde said.

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