Raising a Glass to Nature: The Biodynamic and Natural Wine Movement

Moe Momtazi at MaysaraPhoto byCourtesy Andrea Johnson

In recent years, the wine world has been buzzing with a shift towards more sustainable and eco-friendly practices. Biodynamic and natural wines are leading this movement, and they are winning over winemakers and wine lovers with their unique methods and distinct flavors.

Biodynamic Winemaking: A Holistic Approach

Back in 1924, a group of concerned farmers in Central Europe noticed their soils were losing vitality due to the heavy use of synthetic fertilizers, herbicides, and insecticides. Seeking a solution, they turned to philosopher and social reformer Rudolf Steiner who introduced them to biodynamic agriculture. Steiner (who you may know as the creator of the Waldorf system of education) proposed a farming method that treats the farm as a self-sustaining ecosystem with a rich biodiversity rather than a monoculture. This approach avoids synthetic chemicals and incorporates lunar and astrological cycles for planting and harvesting.

Biodynamic farming goes beyond organic practices by emphasizing that the farm should provide all necessary resources, creating a rich, diverse environment. Today, renowned wineries like Domaine de la Romanée-Conti in Burgundy and Château Palmer in Bordeaux use biodynamic methods. Organizations such as Respekt-BIODYN in Austria and the Biodynamic Federation Demeter International in Germany certify thousands of farms worldwide, promoting these holistic practices.

Photo byNyetimber sheep

Natural Wines: Minimal Intervention, Maximum Expression

Natural wines, affectionately known as ‘natty,’ embrace a philosophy of minimal intervention. Typically beginning with organically or biodynamically farmed grapes, these wines shun synthetic additives and chemicals, relying on natural processes throughout production. There isn’t an official definition for “natural wine,” so it ultimately depends on the winemaker’s interpretation. However, the common thread is a commitment to preserving the land and expressing the true essence of the wine through eco-friendly practices.

Natural winemakers avoid pesticides and herbicides, opting instead to hand-pick grapes rather than using machines. They often rely on wild yeasts naturally present on the grapes and in the winery for fermentation, which produces wines that reflect the unique character of the grapes and the terroir where they were grown. This hands-off approach celebrates the grape’s natural character, producing wines that many enthusiasts find more expressive and truer to their origin.

These natty wines are known for their unique and complex flavor profiles, often focusing on freshness and acidity rather than sweetness or oakiness. They are the wine equivalent of #nofilter, sometimes appearing cloudier in the glass than traditional wines — but not always. This unpredictability and authenticity appeal to wine drinkers who appreciate these wines' artisanal nature and environmental benefits.

Scenes from the making of La Garagista natural wines in Vermont.Photo byPat Piasecki

Scientific Support and Market Growth

Biodynamic farming’s benefits are backed by science. A review in the journal Organic Agriculture found that biodynamic practices enhance soil quality and vineyard biodiversity. A study in the American Journal of Enology and Viticulture showed that biodynamically farmed vineyards had higher levels of brix (a measure of grape sugar content) and phenols (compounds affecting bitterness, color, and antioxidant properties) compared to organic vineyards. The soil in these vineyards was also richer in anthocyanins, which have health-boosting properties.

The demand for biodynamic and natural wines is on the rise, driven by a growing interest in health and sustainability. Millennials and Generation Z consumers, in particular, are championing this trend, prioritizing authenticity and environmental responsibility. Wine bars and retailers specializing in these wines are popping up in major cities, making them more accessible.

Market data reflects this surge. A report by Grand View Research predicts the global natural wine market will grow at a compound annual growth rate (CAGR) of 10.4% from 2021 to 2028. Even large wine producers are exploring biodynamic and natural practices to meet this growing demand.

Despite their popularity, biodynamic and natural wines are not without controversy. Critics argue that the lack of standardized definitions and regulations can lead to inconsistencies and mislabeling. The unpredictable nature of natural wines can also be off-putting to those who prefer consistency.

Winemakers face challenges too, including higher labor costs and the risk of crop failure due to reliance on natural processes. Yet, many are willing to take these risks for the sake of sustainability and quality.

Photo byBonny Doon Vineyard

The Future of Winemaking

As the wine industry evolves, the rise of biodynamic and natural wines represents a significant shift towards more sustainable and authentic production methods. These wines offer a new way to experience the complexity and diversity of viticulture, attracting a new generation of wine enthusiasts. Whether for their environmental benefits or their unique flavors, biodynamic and natural wines are set to play a central role in the future of winemaking.