You gotta try ... Chopped cheese at Frazier's Long & Low

Frazier's Long & Low has everything I'd expect to find in my dream dive bar: vintage beer signs; button-backed leather banquettes; dim honeyed lighting; '70s Houston sports pennants; billiards; wood paneling; Leon Russell on the jukebox; shuffleboard; a friendly face behind the bar; and — a chopped cheese?

The fits-in-your-palm burger is great, with its cap of cheese obscuring much of the caramelized edges of the patty, but you're hard pressed to find a chopped cheese in Austin. The sandwich, a bodega specialty in New York City, is a hoagie roll, here both crunchy and flossy, stuffed with chopped up hamburger meat enmeshed in gooey cheese. I don't like lettuce and tomato on a burger, but it works just fine as a confetti'd textural counterpoint to this flattop smorgasbord of a sandwich.

The sandwich was one of the Best Things I Ate in June. Read about the 7 other places in my recent article .

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This article originally appeared on Austin American-Statesman: You gotta try ... Chopped cheese at Frazier's Long & Low