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Cuisine Noir
Soul Food Potato Salad — One of America’s Most Controversial Side Dishes
By Quia Bethea,
2024-05-26
We all know that soul food potato salad, aka Black people’s potato salad, is one of the best side dishes for any occasion. We also know that not everyone in the family can make it.
This article will explore how this classic dish came to be at the top of the soul food menu list, which ingredients are mandatory, plus those we should never include. Sorry, we know each family has their recipe, and conversely, some things just aren’t up for debate.
Who Made the Potato Salad?
“Who made the potato salad?” It’s a common question most folks aren’t shy about asking. I once cooked a feast of barbeque chicken, collard greens, red rice and cornbread for three of my colleagues.
They all declined the containers of potato salad I thrust in their direction, stating that they only ate their mother’s potato salad. Even though the rejection stung a bit, the emotion quickly subsided as I recalled I had hesitated to pack the potato salad because I felt the same about my mother’s recipe.
Deep down inside, I applauded them — after all, I would have unabashedly done the same had the shoe been on my foot. Naturally, I completely demolished the untouched potato salad when I returned home. I ate well for days.
Realizing how particular so many Black folks are regarding this side dish caused me to ponder its origin.
But first, we need to understand why the term “soul food” is integral to turning a mundane potato salad recipe into a well-seasoned, beloved, and somewhat polarizing masterpiece.
The Origin of Soul Food Potato Salad
Soul food is more than a mouth-watering expression; it evokes powerful imagery dating back to slavery in the United States of America. In addition to the inhumane treatment enslaved people suffered, they were forced to eat what could be considered undesirable parts of animals for sustenance.
As expected of Black creativity, they turned those parts and other scraps of food into delectable meals U.S. Americans continue to enjoy today.
An amalgamation of African, European and Indigenous cultures, soul food is a relic of tumultuous times and the embodiment of “turning lemons to lemonade.” These meals weren’t just food; they were a way to nourish the body and soul and celebrate their heritage and resilience in the face of hardship.
Wanda Ellis, a home cook and mother of four from the Bronx, New York, is the trusted potato salad maker within her family, with many people impatiently waiting all year to get a taste during the holidays.
“My siblings and I learned to cook early due to our mother’s health condition,” Ellis shares. “She was left partially paralyzed after two strokes and depended on us to keep the household running.”
She reveals, “My mother’s family was from the Carolinas, and she was an incredible cook and teacher, ensuring we followed her instructions thoroughly. Lucky for me, I eventually mastered her red rice and potato salad recipes. They’re what I’m known for today.”
Pictured: Bowl of potato salad | Photo credit: MSPhotographic
Soul food potato salad presents us with the perfect balance of savory and sweet flavors. What are the tell-tale signs of a worthy dish? The color usually consists of a slightly golden tinge and dusted with paprika.
While recipes may vary, we can agree on what’s typical in the traditional soul food-style recipe. You can’t go wrong with the basics: Russet potatoes, mayonnaise, yellow mustard, celery seeds, sweet pickle relish, yellow or white onion, green bell pepper, hard-boiled eggs, and paprika for color and a sophisticated garnish.
Texture Matters in a Great Potato Salad Recipe
What’s the key to making the perfect potato salad? Ellis is adamant that the potatoes should be slightly firm and that the pieces shouldn’t be too large or too small. “Some people like to see small, uniform chunks of the potatoes and other vegetables while others go for a more creamy and smooth texture.”
She concludes, “The textures and presentation influence how you experience food as much as the flavor does.”
Ingredients That Should Never Be Included in Soul Food Potato Salad
As one of America’s most celebrated yet controversial recipes, respectfully, green peas, carrots, garlic, fruit, meat, raisins, and seafood in soul food potato salad could get your invitation rescinded from the cookout. That’s right, banned.
As delicious as they are, these ingredients just don’t belong in the recipe for this classic dish.
That’s soul food – a symphony of simple ingredients, cooked with love and seasoned with stories of Herculean people. It’s a taste of history, a reminder of where we come from, and a celebration of how delicious overcoming challenges can be.
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