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Cuisine Noir
Where to Experience Black Culture in Paris
By Quia Bethea,
2024-07-03
Paris, the undisputed capital of art, cuisine, and romance, cradles an emerging gem: a thriving Black cultural scene brimming with creativity, history and resilience.
Often overshadowed by the city’s traditional offerings, Black Paris boasts a rich narrative waiting to be explored. Whether you’re a cultural connoisseur or a travel novice, this article delves into where to experience Black culture in Paris, intricately woven into the very fabric of the City of Lights.
Where to Experience Black Culture in Paris
From those escaping oppression to the diverse African diaspora that continues to shape the city’s character, the historical presence of Black communities has been threaded throughout Parisian society for centuries.
Paris comprises 20 arrondissements, or municipal districts, with the 18 and 19 arrondissements boasting the largest concentration of African communities.
“People are more aware of the various populations of Black people here now,” says Monique Y. Wells, VMD, originally from Houston, Texas, who recently celebrated her 32nd anniversary in France.
Regarding the perceived “evolution” of Black culture in Paris, Wells believes it’s not necessarily an evolution but merely a more worldly recognition resulting from the co-mingling of cultures and increased social consciousness.
“Over the past twenty or so years, France in general — and Paris in particular — are having to come to terms with the multicultural nature of the population.” Regarding how African Americans experience Black culture in Paris, Wells reveals there may be a notable disconnect.
Pictured: Monique Wells of Entrée to Black Paris leading a tour | Photo credit: Entrée to Black Paris
“African Americans, because of our conditioning and our history, tend to look at Black people in one pot, and we want to feel like we’re connected to everybody. That’s not the reality.”
Regarding social acceptance, Wells acknowledges that the general population is becoming more informed about immigrant populations and their issues. Due to the exposure and having those hard conversations, overcoming cultural barriers is becoming increasingly less challenging.
She continues, “When you come from a place where you never have to think about being Black because everyone else is Black, that whole mindset doesn’t exist for many people.”
In essence, how connected one Black person feels to another Black person, especially if they don’t share a culture varies from person to person. It’s a nuance Wells feels is important for African Americans to understand.
There’s a simple formula to help anyone overcome those cultural imbalances: it starts with curiosity and open-mindedness. Combined with empathy and sincerity, you can strive to build relationships on an individual level before embracing diversity within a community.
The 18th arrondissement, specifically the Goutte d’Or neighborhood, is known as a cultural hub of African and Black culture in Paris. It has a long presence of populations hailing from the Caribbean and African countries like Algeria, Ivory Coast, Mali, Senegal, and Tunisia, tracing back to the 1950s (with North Africans tracing back to the 19th century).
“There’s a neighborhood called Chateau Rouge [located in the 18th arrondissement ], which is also known as ‘Little Africa,’ says Ninja , a professional dance and yoga instructor of African-American and Japanese heritage, referring to the ubiquity of boutiques, grocery stores, restaurants and salons mostly owned by Africans.
It’s easy to get lost among shops selling aromatic spices, beauty supplies, garments and groceries. Amongst an eclectic mix of languages and nostalgic and fragrant scents, you’ll find a most welcoming community.
The 19th arrondissement is a multicultural hub bustling with attractive new developments and a younger population, offering a fresh perspective on the Parisian lifestyle. Although there aren’t any landmarks or museums dedicated to African or Black cultures, the influences are intrinsically woven into the fabric of everyday life.
Tours that Highlight Black Culture in Paris
Platforms like Airbnb Experiences are becoming more popular with travelers seeking local experiences. “Before moving to Paris, I took a Little Africa tour that I found on Airbnb where the hostess explained the history of this specific neighborhood,” shares Ninja.
After moving to Paris in 1992, Wells co-founded Discover Paris, a travel company, alongside her husband, which advertised personalized itineraries for independent travelers. The couple eventually rebranded their company to offer guided tours under Entrée to Black Paris in 2018.
Entrée to Black Paris partners with the Wells International Foundation, a U.S. nonprofit organization, through the Entrée to Black Paris Cultural Awareness Program. The Wells International Foundation collaborates with local and international organizations to support women, children and youth, and people of African descent through intersecting initiatives, including women’s empowerment, S.T.E.A.M. (science, technology, engineering, art, and math), travel, and study abroad opportunities.
Another program Wells leads is the African Diaspora Cultural Impact in Paris (ADCI), which offers a unique opportunity for college students throughout the United States of America to connect with the contemporary art, culture, and history within the African Diaspora of Paris.
Pictured: City Guide Africa in Paris by Jacqueline Ngo Mpii | Photo credit: Little Africa
Little Africa founder Jacqueline Ngo Mpii curates local experiences that allow groups and individuals such as Ninja to explore African history and culture in Paris. Her City Guide Africa in Paris , which you can purchase, takes you through neighborhoods, restaurants, public transport, shops and unique stories.
In addition, Mpii is also the founder of Little Africa Village, which is a hub for art exhibits, events and a boutique for crafted goods made by the African community.
Lastly, Maison Noire Américaine (MNA ) is a nonprofit founded by executive director Robin Bates in 2013.The organization is dedicated to educating and inspiring people about the African American presence and influence in France through the arts and cultural programs.
It aims to foster cross-cultural understanding and build community between African American, Afro-Francophone and French cultures by promoting collaborative projects, cultural resources and educational events.
How to Experience Paris During the 2024 Olympics
The city is much more than noshing on croissants and visiting cathedrals; it’s about Josephine Baker captivating audiences at the Folies Bergère, Senegalese writers finding their voice in the cafes of the Left Bank, and food and music from the diaspora permeating the air.
Wells recommends visiting the cultural event space called Africa Station in Île-Saint-Denis, a tiny island in the Seine River near the Stade de France. Throughout the Olympics, there will be a focus on African athletes and their achievements.
“The event is designed for African athletes, presumably the winners of competitions, to interact with the local people.” From there, spectators can watch the Olympics for free on large monitors. There will also be African-themed pop-up restaurants in the space.
Details are also unfolding for events scheduled during African-American Weekend starting July 26, which will center around food, music, art and more.
We all know that there is an abundance of options to choose from when visiting the City of Lights, but tapping those who live there for suggestions can be a game changer, such as grabbing a copy of Mpii’s City Guide Africa of Paris.
The menu offers classics like juicy fried pickles, pan-fried chicken in biscuits, and sweet-tooth satisfying desserts like pecan pie. Vegetable lovers can rejoice in options like the veggie bowl laden with avocado, baby spinach, cabbage and vegetarian gumbo.
Pictured: Brothers Rudy and Joel Lainé of New Soul Food in Paris | Photo credit: New Soul Food
Ninja frequently dines at the Afro-Asian fusion hotspot, Deepsea. A halal institution, the innovative restaurant offers atypical dishes like Momo À Tokyo, succulent beef marinated in a combination of African and Asian spices, sautéed with bacon and peanuts, and roasted eggplant and served over a fricassée of lentils.
Brothers Rudy and Joel Lainé enjoy using food as a connector to share their roots from Cameroon and Guadeloupe at their restaurants New Soul Food, Le Marquis and La Darkana.
By venturing beyond the well-trodden tourist path, you’ll discover a Paris pulsating with a unique energy, where African rhythms mingle with Parisian elegance and where history whispers through bustling streets and energetic art scenes.
Where to experience Black culture in Paris is more accessible than ever. So, ditch the beret and typical guidebooks and immerse yourself in the new soul of Paris – Black Paris.
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