Abbott’s on Broad Creek has been serving up “new American” flavors for over a decade in downtown Laurel. That means making the basics really come alive.
“America was meat and potatoes, but when you have an infusion of ethnic people coming to the country, you start evolving or involving different ingredients into the equation,” said owner Kevin Reading, who partnered with now-wife Laura (Burton) Reading for this restaurant.
“So, you could end up taking beef … but using soy sauce. You could take Greek or African … and include it in an American culture cuisine. Take the meatloaf: we use andouille and chorizo so we have that garlic paprika that carries all the way through.”
Recipes are carefully crafted, but the Abbott’s vibe is easygoing. “The food would be fine dining in casual relaxed atmosphere,” said General Manager Kim Shipe. “The chefs really take pride in their dishes.”
The menu changes about four or five times a year with the seasons. Many of the little things are made in-house, like salad dressings, desserts, croutons and some cocktail bases.
Light and reflections of the gentle Broad Creek permeate the dining room, shining on glossy wooden tables, black wooden chairs and red booths. The bar is open at lunchtime, but you could definitely imagine the bustle of a Friday night. Outside, the waterfront deck opens with warm weather.
“This is really good!” said a nearby woman, as her friends dug into crab cakes, hand-cut fries, salads and steak sandwiches. They reminisced over their last visit here with the winter menu.
When my own order arrived, it was certainly photo-worthy. There was color in every bite, and the flavors blended with intention in each bite.
Frog leg meunière came with four pieces, flour-dipped and fried, with herbs and tangy lemon on sourdough toast. When I say that frog legs taste like chicken, I mean it as a matter of fact and as a compliment because I can only imagine that Abbott’s fried chicken would also receive high treatment here. The difference between frog and poultry was truly miniscule.
Although I was tempted to try the Big Sussex sandwich (fried oysters on chicken salad), I took the house recommendation of scallops. Pan-seared scallops were arranged with bacon-like pancetta, wild mushrooms, sunchokes (like artichoke) and a spring pea puree.
Here, the classic Caesar salad was massive and colorful with fried capers, tomato, red onion and croutons. There’s also a version with fried oysters, lardons (fried ham/bacon) and avocado.
“Any seafood, the fellas do a great job,” said Jessie Gainer, my server/bartender. Pot roast is a big seller because “it falls apart like butter.” Kevin’s Key Lime Pie is popular in all of Reading’s restaurants.
She loves the shrimp and grits, made with andouille sausage, cherry tomato, spinach, lemon and garlic. The menu also includes grilled churrasco steak, served with a sunchoke and potato hash, crispy catfish, pork schnitzel, a unique spin on chicken and dumplings, softshell crab BLT and steak frites salad with steak and blue cheese.
Appetizers range from loaded nachos (think roasted corn, chipotle aioli and fresh jalapenos) to crab tostada, fried green tomatoes, crispy duck egg rolls.
Look for live music, art and productions on weekends, plus dinner specials, holiday buffets and more.
“I feel like this is a place for our community to get great food and get great service, and we do get a lot of support from the community of Laurel,” said Shipe.
Travelers tend visit Abbott’s as a crossroads stop, while locals from Routes 1 and 113 even drive to Laurel to escape the busy beach.
With about 50 years in restaurants, chef Kevin Reading is also known for Brick Works Brewing & Eats, Espuma and also Nage in Rehoboth Beach, Fox Point Grill in Wilmington and now Belly Up food truck. Although the original Abbott’s location has closed in Milford, a new Milton location has just opened.
“I still have the passion for the business. I love cooking. My favorite days are in the kitchen.”
Abbott’s on Broad Creek is located at 111 Delaware Avenue, Laurel, Del., with a second location at Paynter’s Mill near Milton, Del. Learn more at (302) 280-6172 and abbottsgrill.com .
Bay to the Beach: Byways is a regular column in which we explore interesting places and projects on the Delmarva Peninsula. Videos and more photos at baytobaynews.com/bay-to-the-beach-byways
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