Revamped Minneapolis American Indian Center cafe expands Native foods mission

A quiet cafe at the heart of Minneapolis’ American Indian community is expanding its role as a community hub and a teacher of Native foodways.

Chef Vernon DeFoe is aiming for “approachable” Indigenous food at the Gatherings Cafe in the Minneapolis American Indian Center (MAIC). The center wrapped up a $32.5 million renovation in April, including a bigger space for the cafe and its kitchen.

DeFoe said the cafe has had a slow start since reopening June 10, but he chalks it up to its low-key presence in the neighborhood.

“The fact that we are open now is a pretty large feat,” said DeFoe. “Usually it can be between six months to a year until you actually open.”

According to DeFoe, Gatherings has operated for about eight years in a different and much smaller section of the center. The renovations included a massive update to the cafe’s kitchen and a much larger seating area for guests.

New take on old favorites

DeFoe joined Gatherings Cafe as head chef in October after stints at Sean Sherman’s Indigenous Food Lab and other restaurant gigs. He estimates about half the current menu consists of legacy items from the old Gatherings Cafe, but he’s particularly proud of the new items they can concoct in the upgraded kitchen.

“We have these new tools and machines, so we’re making a new menu.” We’re not talking about rye bread sandwiches with artisan mayo, think more like the fan-favorite bison melts, cedar maple tea and wild rice pancakes

Cedar maple tea

Steeped using the leaves of a cedar tree and sweetened with maple syrup, this cleansing drink tastes how you’d imagine a Christmas tree would. Traditionally steeped over a long period to concentrate the flavor, Gatherings Cafe cuts the brewing process short to produce a light, refreshing drink.

Wild rice pancakes with turkey sausage

Similar in texture, though less grainy, than corn pancakes, the wild rice pancakes are a hearty take on the classic breakfast. The turkey sausage, however, stole the spotlight; its rich and savory soft patty puts every other turkey sausage to shame. Where turkey tends to run dry, Gatherings’ sausage managed to create a juicy but not greasy experience.

Root veggie hash

A hominy cake and poached egg covered potato and green pepper hash brown topped with a sweet and slightly spicy roasted red pepper aioli. The potatoes will remain constant, but expect it to pair with different vegetables throughout the year, depending entirely on what colors speak to DeFoe and what Native farmers have available for him.

Three Sisters salad

A favorite of DeFoe’s, the salad features vegan friendly proteins of corn, hominy, sunflower seeds and delicata squash. These sweet ingredients pair nicely with the bitterness of the kale. Much like the hash, this dish is also likely to include rotating ingredients.

Bison melt

A blueberry horseradish aioli and gouda cheese layers a wood fired grilled hunk of bison, which pulls apart easily on its bun.

Chia seed pudding

Cocoa powder and coconut milk create a dense, fiber-rich pudding. The tart wojapi sauce on top balances out the richness.

Keeping money in Native pockets

According to DeFoe, almost every ingredient is sourced from Native communities and farms — with some exceptions originating from “the other continent” (South and Central America). DeFoe says this keeps money in Native pockets and helps other Native business owners thrive.

By utilizing Native-grown and gathered ingredients, DeFoe and his team are reintroducing healthy Indigenous dishes to their community.

“Our community is suffering from health problems . We’re trying to make [healthy Native food] approachable. People in our community are not used to eating bison, they’re used to eating Wonder Bread,” said DeFoe. “But, we don’t want it to be pretentious.”

Natalie Rademacher, the MAIC’s communications coordinator, called attention to the fact that Gatherings isn’t reinventing Native foods for a high-end experience. Organizations like the MAIC, Four Sisters Farmers Market and Dream of Wild Health, a Native-led nonprofit teaching Indigenous agricultural practices, try to reintroduce Native recipes and food practices with the community.

“This isn’t new, what we’re doing. Our ancestors hunted and gathered all of these foods. But these orgs are trying to relearn these things that were lost intentionally.”

The work at Gatherings Cafe goes beyond bison burgers and cedar maple  tea. Staff send meals to the nearby Native American Community Clinic for patients and offer community elders free breakfast from time to time. Staff also host “food demonstrations,” activity sessions where community members can visit the cafe and learn how to make some of DeFoe’s dishes themselves.

When asked about safeguarding recipes and maintaining profits, DeFoe brushed off the concept. “It’s food. It’s not property, we don’t claim it. It should be shared. We’re not trying to make a profit, it’s not for us, it’s for the people.”

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