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The Infatuation
Burger & Lobster
By Molly Fitzpatrick,
2 days ago
Molly Fitzpatrick
You have to admire a restaurant that lets you know exactly what to expect, right in its name. Burger & Lobster is the only U.S. outpost of an upscale international chain that originated in London. Though you may be seated beside multiple families of tourists, the vibe here is, disconcertingly, a little sexy: artfully distressed metal lobster tails and claws hang overhead in the spacious dining room, which also features red leather banquettes and a sculptural wall of lobster traps. A neon sign of a Samuel Beckett quote glows on a wall near the (slightly depressing) tanks in the lobby.
We have a very specific prescription for you here: Skip the burger altogether, and proceed directly to the Classic Lobster Roll. It’s neither a particularly good nor a particularly bad lobster roll, but it comes with a silver sauce boat—nearly the size of the sandwich itself—filled with creamy lemon and garlic butter. Douse anything in that stuff, possibly even one of those decorative metal lobster claws, and it will be delicious.
Served with fries or salad (get the fries, and dip them in that butter), it’s $30, which, this close to Times Square—and in the context of New York City lobster prices in general—isn’t wildly unreasonable. There are much worse options for convenient pre-Broadway meals, especially when you consider that Burger & Lobster is in the very same building as the Stephen Sondheim Theatre.
Food Rundown
photo credit: Molly Fitzpatrick
Original Burger
It’s a great-looking burger, studded with black and white sesame seeds and stacked with a couple thick slabs of bacon, but the bun is way dry. If you’re craving beef around these parts, we’d sooner send you to the Shack Shack inside Grand Central.
Connecticut Lobster Roll
The warm, buttery lobster has its charms, but it’s slightly overcooked, and a little mushy.
photo credit: Molly Fitzpatrick
Classic Lobster Roll
The chilled filling is refreshing, tossed with bright lemon mayo and sprinkled with chives, but the brioche is a bit of a dud. This would be a fine, if unexceptional lobster roll, if not for the cheat code that is the side of lemon garlic butter. Not for purists, but—wow.
Truffle And Parmesan Chunky Fries
These fries are pleasantly fluffy on the inside, but the truffle is overpowering. Try the rosemary and garlic flavor instead.
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