Long Island’s Newest Head Winemaker Is A Creative Force To Be Reckoned With

Marin Brennan has been on Long Island’s wine scene for a minute. But, since she’s been there, she has been raising the bar on the North Fork AVA — and let’s be real, Long Island winemaking in general. Her tenure at Corey Creek Taproom , of which she’s been winemaker since 2019, saw her create unique renditions of rosé and Malbec, as well as a white version of Long Island’s flagship grape, Cabernet Franc (which scored 93 points). This wine has become a fan favorite and a cornerstone item. She followed this up with Coquillage, a wild foraged, sea-shell aged Chardonnay that received the highest score for a dry white wine from Long Island at 94 points.

Now, Brennan is taking her career a step further, as she has recently been named Winemaker for Bedell Cellars (which owns Corey Creek) and Corey Creek Tap Room. Humble about the appointment, Brennan feels lucky to follow in the footsteps of her mentor, Richard Olsen-Harbich , but is eager to continue creating buzzed-about wines. Her latest, Golden Hour, is a skin-contact sipper made of 100 percent Pinot Gris, and will be released this Spring through Corey Creek.

We got a chance to chat with Brennan about her new role at Bedell Cellars, the importance of her small batch wine creations and what she’s doing when she’s not making wine:

Men’s Journal : First of all, congratulations on the promotion! However, let’s go back to the beginning. When did you decide that winemaking was the career choice for you?

Marin Brennan : My first harvest was an inspiring adventure. Playing a role in crafting the wines of that vintage was very exciting to me — it was hard work, but I soaked up every moment of it. Despite my degree in Hospitality from Johnson & Wales University, I found myself uncertain about embracing winemaking as my career path without an Enology degree.

Working alongside Kip Bedell, a self-made success story in the wine industry, was eye-opening. His journey from a home winemaker to building one of the most esteemed wine brands on the North Fork was truly inspiring. However, it was Rich Olsen-Harbich, winemaker and mentor, who provided the encouragement I needed. His words reassured me that if winemaking was truly my passion, I could carve out a path for myself in the industry, regardless of my academic background. Since then, I’ve received an Enology certificate from Washington State University.

MJ : What is your general winemaking philosophy?

MB : My winemaking philosophy centers around showcasing the distinct characteristics of both the grape varietal and the terroir of the North Fork. This maritime climate has a unique expression of saline minerality that peaks through all our white and rosé wines, imparting a sense of place that is truly special.

One of the defining features of the North Fork is its tendency towards lower alcohol, a quality that enhances their suitability for food pairings. Rich [uses] the term, “what grows together goes together.” A belief that local produce pairs beautifully with our wines, creating memorable experiences.

Our wines are crafted to be balanced, fruit-forward, and crisp. We strive to let the natural characteristics of the grapes and the unique terroir shine through, resulting in wines that are both elegant and expressive of their origins.

MJ : Can you tell me a bit about North Fork wine’s evolution since you have arrived on the scene?

MB : Embracing the essence of the North Fork has always been central to our winemaking philosophy at Bedell. We’ve chosen to amplify the distinctive character of our terroir, celebrating its unique expression.

During the past decade, I’ve witnessed a significant shift in the industry, particularly with more women entering the winemaking scene. It’s encouraging to see this evolution unfold. In fact, I’ve had the privilege of experiencing two harvests where our crew was entirely composed of women-a testament to the growing diversity within our field.

When I first stepped into the industry, rosé was beginning to emerge as a trend. Since then, it has transformed to become a staple in every wine portfolio. Crafting rosé wines has been a personal joy for me, the creative process of bringing out their unique flavors.

MJ : What inspires you as a winemaker and where do you draw your inspiration?

MB : Channeling the tranquil allure of the North Fork’s natural beauty, I decided to craft something truly exceptional: ‘Coquillage’, a chardonnay aged with seashells, named after the French word for ‘seashell’. Fascinated by the distinct saline notes found in our white wines, I wanted to elevate this quality even further. Collecting shells from the shores of both the Long Island Sound and Peconic Bay, I placed them in a stainless-steel tank with our chardonnay, allowing the flavors to integrate and evolve over a three-month period. However, my muse isn’t confined to our coastline. Traveling serves as a wealth of inspiration, exposing me to a lot of new flavors that kindle my creativity and enrich my palate.

MJ : What should people know about North Fork wine and why this region is so important to the U.S. wine market?

MB : The North Fork stands out as a boutique wine region, characterized by its unique maritime climate. This climate affords us the opportunity to cultivate a diverse array of grape varietals that thrive in our conditions, setting us apart from other wine regions. Our proximity to New York City, one of the world's largest wine markets, ensures ample tourism and exposure for our wines.

Our wines embody the essence of the North Fork winemaking style- innovative, diverse, and deeply connected to the land. I believe that as our region evolves and gains more recognition, its influence on the U.S. wine market will continue to grow. Despite our size, we shouldn’t underestimate the quality and uniqueness of our wines; after all , we celebrated 50 years of winemaking on the North Fork last year. With the changing climate working in our favor, we’re producing some of the finest wines around.

MJ : You’ve been making some really cool and experimental blends for awhile. In fact, one of the wineries even has a ‘small batch’ wine club. Can you explain why this is so important to you and how it helps you grow as a winemaker?

MB : I’m incredibly fortunate to have the opportunity to craft wines for two distinctly different tasting rooms. Corey Creek has been instrumental in allowing me to explore small-batch productions and experiment with new ideas. Bedell is renowned for its consistent delivery of world-class wines, providing a solid foundation for my winemaking endeavors.

Corey Creek has become a major part of my winemaking journey, offering a platform where I can push boundaries and create innovative wines while keeping with my winemaking philosophy. It’s not uncommon for the wines I craft for Corey Creek to change from one vintage to the next. This has allowed me to break free from the constraints of a ‘traditional’ wine portfolio and explore unconventional blends and techniques.

One example is the Old Vine rosé, a wine that exemplifies thinking outside the box. Comprising 75% Gewurztraminer, a white grape varietal, and 25% Malbec rosé, this rosé undergoes barrel fermentation in neutral oak. Gewurztraminer, with its distinctive floral notes of rose petal or orange blossom, can be polarizing for some palates. However, through Corey Creek, I’ve had the opportunity to introduce customers to the beauty of this grape and expand their wine horizons.

Corey Creek has been a jumping off point for my growth as a winemaker, providing a space for creativity, and boundaries are challenged. It’s a place where I can truly express myself through the wines I craft, pushing the envelope to create unique and memorable experiences for people.

MJ : What are you doing in your downtime?

MB : I love hiking and spending time by the water on the North Fork with my husband and our 8-year-old yellow lab, River . Even when we're outdoors, wine always manages to find its way into our adventures, adding an extra layer of enjoyment to our experiences beyond the cellar.

MJ : We hear there is a cool wine and music combo that you’re working on. Can you give us a little sneak peek?

MB : In our cellar, music is always playing, with a diverse range of genres. One of the wines, aptly named ‘Aux.’, draws inspiration from the idea of an auxiliary cord. The concept behind this wine's name stems from the Auxerrois grape, predominantly found in France's Alsace region, and known as a sibling of Chardonnay. We take pride in being pioneers on the East Coast for planting and crafting wine with this grape variety. To complement ‘Aux.’, I've curated a Spotify playlist featuring easy-listening tracks from a wide array of artists. It's the perfect way to enhance your tasting experience.