Orr column: Fried zucchini takes basic cacio e pepe dish to new level

I love summer for the fresh locally grown produce.

I no longer have my vegetable garden after selling the Inn, but I do have my herb gardens. I can also find local produce at our farmers market as well as at Bunch’s farm stand, and many other stands that pop up throughout our area.

With a dozen zucchini on hand the other day I was mulling over ideas for a quick dinner. I decided to make a pasta dish.

Similar pasta recipes by Stanley Tucci and Gwyneth Paltrow have been popular on social media, but spaghetti alla Nerano is an old dish which chef Maria Grazia originated in 1952 in her restaurant on the Sorrentine peninsula, in southern Italy.

Her recipe includes the local cheese caciocavallo but I have also seen grated Provolone used for the dish here in the U.S. I used grated Pecorino Romano and Parmigiana Reggiano. Never use pre-grated cheese and always grate your cheese from a good quality block.

This fried zucchini recipe has the same preparation instructions as cacio e pepe pasta. Cacio e pepe is an ancient Roman staple said to have been created by shepherds. It is a simple dish of sheep’s milk pecorino romano cheese or “cacio” and pepper or “pepe.” The only other original ingredients are pasta and its salted starchy cooking water.

Contrary to many pasta cooking directions, it’s important to use less water when boiling pasta to ensure a starchy water. The key to this dish is the preparation which takes only minutes but requires constant stirring and adjusting the ratio of hot pasta cooking water and cheese to create a creamy peppery sauce.

Many recipes toast the pepper in olive oil, but I actually like the velvety feel of using butter as I observed when in Italy. The addition of fried zucchini, garlic and fresh basil bring the basic cacio e pepe to a new level.

This week I have included my recipe for cacio e pepe alla Nerano. Enjoy!

Cacio e Pepe alla Nerano

Serves 8

Ingredients

• 16 ounces dry linguine

• 2 cups avocado oil, or vegetable oil

• 8 medium zucchini

• 6 tablespoons unsalted butter

• 6 cloves whole garlic

• 6 ounces finely grated Parmigiana Reggiano

• 6 ounces finely grated Pecorino Romano

• 1 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

• Salt to taste

• ¼ cup fresh basil, cut into thin ribbons

Preparation

1. Heat avocado oil to 350 degrees in a large heavy deep skillet. While oil is heating, slice zucchini into ⅛-inch thick rounds. In small batches fry the zucchini rounds, turning until browned. Remove to a paper-towel lined plate. This step can be done in advance and refrigerated for up to three days.

2. Bring a large pot of salted water to a boil over high heat.

3. In a deep heavy skillet over low heat melt the butter. Add the pepper and stir constantly a few minutes. Stir in the fried zucchini and whole garlic.

4. Cook pasta in the boiling water stirring occasionally, until very al dente (pasta will finish cooking in the sauce). Add a ladle of pasta water to the zucchini mixture and stir to combine.

5. Using tongs, transfer linguine to the skillet with zucchini and turn off the heat. Cook, tossing often, and adding cheeses little by little, until melted, and sauce is creamy. Continue to add ladles of pasta water and continually stirring as the sauce tightens up to maintain a creamy texture. Adjust seasonings to taste. Stir in basil and serve immediately.

If you have a cooking question, contact me at cher.orr@gmail.com and I’d be happy to assist!