Floridians Get the Big Bottles!

COURTESY PHOTO

As I began to think about a topic for this week’s column, a major event occurred in the Florida wine world. It suddenly became legal to sell wines in larger bottles. Turns out that a law passed in 1939 made it illegal to sell wine in bottles that contained more than three liters. There were some exceptions for the trade, but wine lovers were limited to the familiar 750ml bottles and magnums.

But today, we can purchase glamorous and festive larger-format bottles containing up to six liters, which is equal to eight regular-sized bottles.

This battle is not new. For quite some time, the House of Representatives has been puzzling over the issue, finally passing in June. Governor DeSantis signed it last week.

For some reason, the sizes of wine bottles are named after biblical kings and other figures from ancient history. The photo above, which I took outside a wine store in St. Emilion, France, shows all the sizes that are now available to lucky (and well-resourced) Floridians.

Starting at the right with the tiny splitand half bottle, next is the standard-size bottle, which we all know and love. Then, the magnum that holds 1.5 liters. Next comes the Jeroboam, Rehoboam, Methuselah, Salmanazar, Balthazar, and the big boy, the Nebuchadnezzar, which holds the same amount as 20 regular bottles and weighs about 85 pounds.

There are bigger ones, too, but you’ll probably never see them. The Melchior holds the equivalent of 24 bottles, and the Solomon holds 26 bottles. Even larger, the Sovereign holds 35 bottles, and one was specially produced for the christening of the cruise ship Sovereign of the Seas in 1988. It probably took two or three people even to lift it up.

But why put wine in such huge containers? First, they’re very eye-catching and have huge labels. Winemakers like that kind of recognition and visibility on the wine store shelf. Second, if you’re having a party, the large size offers plenty for everyone and definitely puts the special in the occasion. Third, fine wines age better and more slowly in larger bottles, lasting longer. Many collectors prefer at least magnum sizes for this reason.

It’s reasonable to ask, what’s the big deal about sizes? Why have large bottles been illegal in the state for so long? The matter has been brought up in the Florida Senate annually for years and kept getting stalled. Well, apparently, there was some major (and well-funded) opposition from some very large wine distributors concerned that the law would open the door to wines being packaged in other types of containers, like plastic bags and bladders. Sounds strange to me.

Anyway, don’t expect to see all that many 80-pound bottles on wine shelves any time soon because they pose some interesting problems. They’re really heavy, and one wine professional suggests that it’s easier to siphon the wine out of the bottle instead of pouring. Put a plastic tube in, suck on it until the wine starts to flow, and then pour it into decanters or glasses. Actually, that sounds like fun.

Even more fun is sampling through our latest discoveries.

Robert Mondavi Pinot Noir Carneros 2022 ($14) – A characteristic California Pinot, with snappy strawberry right up front and tiers of black plum and cherry. A bit of mocha or chocolate around the edges and hints of rose and purple flowers. Wine Whisperer Rating on a scale of 100: 91-92.

Ramey Syrah Rodgers Creek Vineyard 2017 ($65) –Winemakers often blend a bit of Viognier into a Syrah, and there’s 12% Viognier co-fermented in this example, which creates a smoother mouthfeel. The 25 months in new French oak imparts more savory characters rather than fruit, so expect aromas and flavors of smoke, pepper, bacon, and even a bit of citrus. Much more subtle than some fruit bomb Syrahs. WW 93.

Fort Ross Pinot Noir “FRV” Sonoma Coast 2019 ($54) – On the nose, you’ll enjoy alluring scents of raspberry and cherry, along with some distinctive meaty notes and a touch of violets. The flavors are robust, including characteristic raspberry, red cherry, and gentle hints of warm earth and spice. WW 92.

Ask the Wine Whisperer

Q: What does the French word “terroir” mean?

– Sharon C., Parkland

A: The word is widely used to describe the unique characteristics of a vineyard, including the climate, soil, elevation, and topography.

— Jerry Greenfield is a wine author, educator and consultant. Order his books, “Secrets of the Wine Whisperer” and “Ask the Wine Whisperer” and read his blog at winewhisperer.com .

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