Soul Food Restaurants in Paris Celebrate the Flavors of the American South

France is renowned for its delectable cuisine, but the African American influence has made people search for soul food restaurants in Paris more than ever before.

The first time Robin Bates, founder and CEO of Café de la Soul and founder and executive director of Maison Noire Américaine, saw Paris was during a study abroad program in 1989. The experience impacted her tremendously and shaped the foundation of her illustrious career for over three decades.

“For the past 35 years, I’ve been in a never-ending love affair with African American history as it pertains to France. I’ve made it my mission to share information not just about our history and culture but that of the Black diaspora in France as well.”

In 1998, Bates launched the award-winning Café de la Soul, a Black Paris portal . It was the first website highlighting Black Americans in Paris and the top places to experience the Black diaspora in Paris.

In 2013, Bates founded Maison Noire Américaine , a nonprofit reimagining of Café de la Soul. For over a decade, the organization has curated and organized a range of events, from film screenings and discussions at the Oakland International Film Festival and the San Francisco Black Film Festival to hosting galas, pop-up dinners, artist talks, and author book signings.

Bates, in collaboration with Maison’s assistant director Constance Bryan, aims to foster cross-cultural understanding by educating the public about the presence, history and contributions of African Americans in France. Together, their multifaceted work helps to build bridges between communities that share a deep appreciation for both the Black diaspora and French cultures.

Celebrating Black Culture in Paris

“It’s literally impossible to walk through Paris and not encounter some form of Black American culture,” Bates states. “To me, it speaks to the power of Black American culture and how influential we are globally. I would love to see that undeniable impact more prominently reflected in  our community’s footprint.”

She draws attention to how prominent French fashion brands collaborate with icons from Black American culture. “From Kilian Paris selecting Sir John (Beyoncé’s makeup artist) as their first makeup creative director, to ASAP Rocky becoming the first Black male face for Christian Dior Homme, and Lenny Kravitz and Diana Ross representing YSL, French designers frequently look to Black American celebrities for an exclusive and captivating ‘je ne sais quoi’ element.”

A prime example is Pharrell Williams, who stepped in as creative director for Louis Vuitton’s menswear line after Virgil Abloh’s passing. Interestingly, Williams’ Fall-Winter 2024 men’s show for Louis Vuitton wasn’t just a tribute to his predecessor, it celebrated cultural fusion.

The collection channeled America’s melting pot, blending Native American designs with modern luxury. Models walked the runway in a unique blend of cowboy hats and boots, cowhide travel bags, and intricately embroidered rodeo-inspired pants and jackets.

Bates notes Pharrell’s subtle nod to “Black cowboy and rodeo culture,” successfully “weaving a thread of African American history into the iconic fashion house.”  It’s no surprise, then, that Black people continue to shape Western fashion, both in the past and present.

The love of Black culture in Paris doesn’t begin and end with fashion, it also translates to soul-enriching food.

Soul Food, the Flavor of the American South

Soul food has a deep connection to slavery in the American South. Enslaved Africans and their descendants were given scraps the plantation owners didn’t want. This included tougher cuts of meat and less desirable parts, like organs.

“In the Narrative of the Life of Frederick Douglass,” the author recalls, “rations consisted of a monthly allowance of a bushel of third-rate corn, pickled port (which was “often tainted”) and ‘poorest quality herrings’ – barely enough to sustain grown men and women through their backbreaking labors in the field.”

Soul food was created out of ingenuity and fortitude. With limited ingredients, our African ancestors adapted their West African culinary traditions to their new world to turn undesirable leftovers into mouth-watering dishes like stews laden with okra. Along with chitlins, chicken feet, and gizzards, which are made so flavourful, millions of people continue to enjoy them today.

But soul food isn’t only about lesser cuts, it reflects resourcefulness and the resilience of downtrodden people who used creativity and skill to create delicious and hearty meals despite existing under harsh conditions.

That love for one another — sharing stories and culture during communal mealtimes — helped build community amongst people from different tribal backgrounds. Now, we celebrate those traditions with each generation paying homage to the last through recipes that can only come from the soul.

The History of Soul Food Restaurants in Paris

“The history of African American chefs and soul food restaurants in Paris is incredible,” exclaims Bates. “It started in 1784 with James Hemings, the first American to train as a chef in France. Born into slavery in colonial Virginia, Hemings accompanied Thomas Jefferson to Paris and after receiving rigorous training in French cuisine, served as Jefferson’s head chef until 1796.”

One of the first soul food restaurants, Chez Haynes , closed its doors in 2009. The restaurant was founded by World War II veteran Leroy Haynes, who remained in Paris after the war. Located in the 9th Arrondissement, Hayne’s touch made soul food restaurants the talk of the town, with celebrities (Black and White) frequenting the establishment.

She continues, “Haynes was a living library and a place for African Americans to gather in Paris.  The wall was lined with photos of celebrities who had frequented the restaurant: Cab Calloway, Louis Armstrong, Elizabeth Taylor, Richard Burton, Ray Charles, Warren Beatty, and Sidney Poitier, just to name a few.”

Percy’s Place, which closed in 2005, was another contender, founded by Virginia native Percy Taylor. Taylor’s culinary beginnings started in his kitchen to owning one of the most popular soul food restaurants in Paris.

“The magic of Percy’s Place was Percy’s ability to translate American and soul food classics into dishes that resonated with neighborhood locals.  When kids start stopping by for cookies and brownies after school and moms are picking up fried chicken for dinner, you know you’re doing something right.”

Bates fondly recalls Bojangles, founded by Chicagoan Sharon Morgan in 2000, as one of the pioneering soul food restaurants in Paris, particularly popular with Parisians and Americans due to its lively and culturally rich atmosphere. Though closed today, Bojangles Paris stands as a testament to the enduring appeal of soul food and its ability to create a welcoming space that transcends borders.

Actor and dancer Benny Luke (of La Cage aux Folles fame), running with the esteemed likes of Josephine Baker and James Baldwin, worked at Haynes and later Bojangles, serving as Morgan’s business partner and wingman.

“Sharon was an absolutely brilliant chef and cultural visionary,” states Bates, “While Benny — known for his warmth and hospitality — kept the front of the house happy and entertained.  They were an amazing team.”

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Popular Soul Food Restaurants in Paris

Regarding soul food restaurants in Paris, you’ll find staples like crispy fried chicken and creamy macaroni and cheese. Bates reveals several places where you can find chicken and waffles in Paris. Still, it’s challenging to find collard greens, with kale or the occasional mustard greens being the closest substitution.

“There isn’t a lot of street food in terms of the unique fusion you may find in the States,” says Bates. “Not to say there isn’t a market for that, I think it’s more about what is trending, what people are most familiar with and also what ingredients are readily available in France.”

With that acknowledgment, she reveals there are still a couple of eateries where you’ll find the influence of the African American soul.

Gumbo Yaya Chicken & Waffles

Lionel Chauvel-Maga wasn’t quite 30 when a wave of nostalgia hit him, washing him back to summer mornings spent visiting his aunts in Macon, Georgia. These weren’t just any visits; they were filled with the soul-warming comfort of Sunday brunches – crispy chicken and fluffy waffles, laughter echoing around the table. Fast forward to 2015, and that yearning for those cherished moments translated into Gumbo Yaya, a restaurant in his Parisian neighborhood.

Though Lionel’s roots lie in France (his father is French, and his mother is from Benin), the inspiration for Gumbo Yaya is undeniably American soul food. It’s not just about replicating the dishes, though. He captures the essence of those Macon mornings – the warmth, the sense of community, the pure joy of good food shared with loved ones.

This translates beautifully for Gumbo Yaya’s clientele. Black American tourists and expats find a taste of home, a familiar comfort in a foreign land. At the same time, French customers get an exciting introduction to the world of chicken and waffles, a chance to experience a new culinary tradition with the same welcoming spirit that first captured Lionel’s heart.

Mama Jackson’s Soul Food Restaurant

Founded in 2015, this popular eatery presents a cozy atmosphere consistently lauded for its chicken and waffles, sweet potato sides, and flavorful rice. Although the owners aren’t American, they have perfectly captured the essence of Southern hospitality with friendly, laid-back service.

The restaurant also offers “new soul food” options like the Bamako Soul Plate, which features crispy, skewered chicken served atop a bed of rice resting on a pool of Mafé sauce and a side of sweet plantains.

“That’s what we’re really about, bringing people together and creating a sense of community  while recognizing and appreciating the contributions of African Americans, not just in the United States, but also in France.”

Bates feels honored to give people a new way to experience Black culture, which she does so eloquently through her initiatives and indelible love for African American and French culture.

If you’d like assistance or support with planning your next trip, book a “Black Paris Concierge” service through Maison Noire Américaine and connect on Instagram .

This story originally appeared in Cuisine Noir Magazine