Our Rich History: From Green Derby to Purple Poulet, a tradition of great food in Newport

By Raymond G. Hebert, PhD
Special to NKyTribune

Part 6 of an occasional series about Casual & Fine Dining

In 2009 the distinguishing features of the Green Derby Restaurant were aptly described by
family member Lori Haller with these words: “The Green Derby Restaurant has long been a fixture at the northwest corner of Ninth and York Streets in Newport. Its history is tied to the importance of family and friends, which are as essential to a visit there as any ingredient in the food” (Lori Haller, “Green Derby Restaurant,” in Paul A. Tenkotte and James C. Claypool, eds. Encyclopedia of Northern Kentucky , University Press of Kentucky, 2009, p. 421; hereafter ENK).

Sadly, the Green Derby did not survive the COVID-19 pandemic but nevertheless has a wonderful, storied history worth retelling before the site became the home of the Purple Poulet Restaurant that resides there today.

Helen Azbill Haller Cummins (1912–1986) opened the Green Derby Restaurant in 1947 with her second husband Wilbur Cummins, an experienced restaurant chef. It is worth noting that her first husband, Jacob Haller, was the father of their four children: John (Jack), Glen, Ron, and Mollie. Closest to Helen, though, was her sister Lula North. While the name of the restaurant likely came from the Brown
Derby in Los Angeles, at the time one of the most famous restaurants in America, the substitution of
”Green” in the name was a nod to her Irish ancestry” (ENK).

Much of the ENK entry focuses on the role of the family in the early years of the restaurant, including that “Helen, her mother, and two sisters served food,” and that “during the Ohio River Flood of 1937, the water rose to the second floor” (ENK). There are, moreover, interesting stories about menu items such as “potato puffs” and where they came from, but always the history account returns to the role of the family over the years, with all four children at one point or another working in the restaurant.

It talks about expansions such as the addition of a bar/lounge and large non-smoking dining room, but emphasizes, as it should, the reputation for having “the best fish sandwich in town,” all served in a “family atmosphere.” In a community with a large Catholic population, that fish sandwich became a major favorite during the Lenten season in the spring.

Also significant was the reputation, built over decades, for “comfort” foods. The Green Derby was known for its homemade soups and pies (especially coconut cream pie) and “hard to get” favorites like beef and chicken liver, as well as country ham with true redeye gravy. They became a favorite location, according to Lori Haller, for “Cincinnati Reds and Bengals players, judges and lawyers, and celebrities . . . who made regular visits” (ENK).

In 2009 when the Green Derby was still flourishing, Haller concludes that: “The restaurant’s lasting impression is as one of the few places remaining where customers frequently stop at three or four tables to visit with other diners before sitting down at their own table. A visit to the Green Derby Restaurant, customers seem to feel, is as much of a social event as an eating experience. The restaurant is regarded as a truly unique Northern Kentucky business and appears to live up to the motto ‘Good Food, Good Friends, Good Times’ ” (ENK).

Anecdotally, a close friend has shared stories of trips to the Green Derby with her mother in her younger days, since it was her mother’s favorite place, always for the “fried fish sandwich, Derby Slaw (like hot slaw with bacon and a warm sugar and vinegar dressing, but made with iceberg lettuce instead of cabbage), and coconut cream pie to die for” (Anecdotal memories from Dr. Judith Marlowe).

As evidence of the good years prior to the surprising initial closing in 2009, there were numerous articles over the years reminding readers and the community that the Green Derby was viable and not to be forgotten. In 1997, for example, the “Dining” Section of The Kentucky Post featured the owner, John Haller, and his family. The author, Amy Culbertson, whose primary aim was to “revisit local diners’ longtime favorites,” was reminding readers that the Green Derby had been around successfully for over 50 years. Her emphasis was on the “homey favorites” on the menu, such as “chicken livers, pork chops, and home fries” along with those already mentioned. The famous fried chicken was described as “the realthing” and many other items were simply added as “also mandatory.” (Amy Culbertson, “The Green Derby: 50 Years of Family,” The Kentucky Post , July 24, 1997, p. 60).

In 1989, it was the Cincinnati Enquire r’s “reluctant spender” Randy Allen who visited the Green Derby, which he described as “dressed up” and asserted in a bold opening that it “still serves a fine meal . . . (including) fine frog legs.” Among his emphases were: the “updated décor” the “best fish sandwich” and what he referred to as the “signature dish,” the Derby Salad (Randy Allen, “Old Friend, New Suit,” Cincinnati Enquirer , November 12, 1999, p. 150). In the following year, the Enquirer noted that the Green Derby had been selected as the “best fish sandwich in Greater Cincinnati for the second taste-off in a row,” elaborating on how the fish sandwiches were “rated” and even added a “history of fish sandwiches” (“Still the Champion of Fish Sandwiches,” Cincinnati Enquirer , March 10, 2000, p.111).

Even later, in January 2006, in the “Life” section of the Sunday Enquirer , the review spoke of the Green Derby as “A good fit for the regulars.” The owner at that point was Jack Haller, whose mother Helen and stepfather Wilbur Cummins had been the prior owners. There was pride in the growth from one dining room with 40 seats to multiple dining rooms and 168 seats but with one consistent pattern – “that many of the diners had been coming there since they were kids and now were bringing their own kids and grandkids, some up to 5 times a week.” According to the article, the restaurant’s menu of comfort foods, “satisfied the ‘blue plate’ special appetites of the regulars” (“A Good Fit for the Regulars,” Cincinnati Enquirer , “January 5, 2000, p. 36).

Ironically, it was in 2009, when The Encyclopedia of Northern Kentucky was published, that the Green Derby went out of business for two years. Purchased by new owners (the Brauninger family), there was a revival with the goal of “making the restaurant what it used to be in the 20 th Century” (Pamela Mitchell, “The Green Derby Celebrates its 70 th Anniversary with Classic Comfort Dishes and Great Cocktails,” City Beat , February 15, 2017). Mitchell emphasized the long history of the Green Derby, even comparing it to Arnold’s in Cincinnati – 1861, Mecklenburg Gardens in Cincinnati – 1865, and NKY’s Greyhound Tavern – 1921; thereby reminding us why it was so important that the Green Derby had been revived. Jason Brauninger, son of the owners Mike and Melody, said the family’s goal at that point was “to take a struggling gem, polish it up, and bring it back to what it used to be.” He added, excitedly, that it was important to celebrate the 70th anniversary of the restaurant on April 1, 2017.

Further, it was clear the emphasis would continue to be with a “comfort food menu, which then relived the mob era by displaying dozens of reframed, vintage photographs from the Newport ‘Sin City’ days in its main dining room.”

Looking to the future and the potential of younger patrons, “the Brauningers ramped up the bourbon offerings to more than 60 and beer drinkers were said to have appreciated the 20 taps, mostly local and regional breweries” (C ity Beat ). The bulk of the rest of Mitchell’s article emphasized the menu items that the restaurant had been known for, such as the liver dishes, the fried chicken, and the pastas in the “Italiano” section of the menu. The author added that the “Derby’s version of a hot brown went down easy as well, thanks to a cheesy house made mornay sauce and plenty of applewood-smoked bacon.”

Several years later, totally without warning, in November 2018, John Matarese of WCPO in his “Don’t Waste Your Money” segment reported to the surprise of most, that the “historic Green Derby restaurant closed suddenly,” adding that he had heard from a restaurant neighbor about closed doors, but had no response from owner Michael Brauninger, nor from his wife after his inquiries. One of the former employees, when interviewed, said that “a group of employees hopes to reopen the restaurant in 2019.” Yet Matarese reminded his listeners that we should not “rule the Derby out: It’s closed twice in its 80 year history, most recently in 2009, and was rescued both times” (John Matarese, “Historic Green Derby Restaurant Closes Suddenly,” WCPO9 , posted November 6, 2018). Then, as we all know too well, the COVID-19 epidemic struck early in 2020 with, among other results, a devastating impact on the restaurant industry.

Like the legendary phoenix, though, on January 20, 2021, it was announced that the Green Derby space in Newport would house a new restaurant later in that year after what was described as a “full renovation” by the owners of the property at 846 York St. Brothers Dean and Shane Gosney said “they had found an “operator” adding, with a touch of humor that, “whether a fish sandwich will still be on the menu is to be determined” (Mark Collier, “Green Derby Space in Newport Became New Restaurant in July,” Link NKY , January 20, 2021).

The Gosneys quickly added in their interview, interestingly, that “the reason we bought it was the history of the building . . . but we’re not restaurant people, we’re building people.”

In the repairs meanwhile, a hand-painted “Green Derby” sign on the front of the building was discovered, “likely dating back to the 1947 opening . . . details they wanted to preserve and highlight, even if the new restaurant is not named the Green Derby” ( Link NKY ). They valued that “name recognition (and probably location) carries a lot of weight.” The Gosneys reflected that “the two iconic Newport restaurants are Pompilio’s and the Green Derby and everybody knows them, and they’ve been around forever.” That mattered to them. In a cryptic conclusion to the interview, the Gosneys described themselves as “a couple of geeks . . . engineering geeks who like bringing things back to life—like old broken watches.”

Appropriately, it was the Northern Kentucky Tribune that published a story about the Purple Poulet leaving Dayton, Kentucky, to move to the Green Derby space, led by Chef Richard Zumwalde. Judy Clabes, Editor of the Tribune , authored the piece on February 16, 2022. She emphasized the partnership between the Gosney Brothers and Chef Zumwalde, adding that it “polished a diamond-in-the-rough into the perfect place for Chef Richard Zumwalde to spice it up a notch or two.” As Chef Zumwalde perceived it, in talking about the “Gosney Brothers’ magic . . . and devotion to Newport’s history,” they took an 1876 historic building in the York Street Historic District and made it the perfect space for the Purple Poulet, which had inadequate space in its Dayton, Kentucky, location. Chef Zumwalde concluded his comments by saying that “theirs is a match made in heaven” (Judy Clabes, “New Purple Poulet Opening in Terrifically Renovated Green Derby; Chef Zumwalde has Surprises in Store,” NKyTribune , February 16, 2022).

When looking carefully at the Purple Poulet and its offerings, “all with an ongoing and consistent emphasis on elegance and ambiance, there will be a Charleston-themed room, an Old Fashioned room, a Sazerac room, a Speakeasy room and, of course, a Mint Julep room, named for the famous Kentucky Derby drink” ( NKy Tribune ). The most popular menu items, such as the famous fried chicken, voodoo shrimp, shrimp and grits, country-fried tenderloin with redeye gravy, and ribeye pepper steak would all continue to be available – but sadly for some, not likely the fish sandwich of years gone by.

Proudly, in more recent times, the Purple Poulet was recognized by Southern Living Magazine as having the “Best Fried Chicken in Kentucky” (Purple Poulet website, https://purplepoulet.com ) — a good sign that the glory days from previous decades are indeed in the hands of a talented team and being recreated today.

Dr. Raymond G. Hebert is Professor of History and Executive Director of the William T. Robinson III Institute for Religious Liberty at Thomas More University. He is the leading author of Thomas More University at 100: Purpose, People, and Pathways to Student Success (2023). The book can be purchased by contacting the Thomas More University Bookstore at 859-344-3335. Dr. Hebert can be contacted at hebertr@thomasmore.edu .

Paul A. Tenkotte, PhD is Editor of the “Our Rich History” weekly series and Professor of History and Gender Studies at Northern Kentucky University (NKU). He can be contacted at tenkottep@nku.edu . Tenkotte also serves as Co-Director of the ORVILLE Project (Ohio River Valley Innovation Library and Learning.

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