Johnson County BBQ joint closed. Now it’s an Indian place, selling dozens of desserts

A large pastry case at the front of Bikanervala sells dozens of creamy, colorful desserts.

Half of the restaurant customers are peeking at the sweets on Tuesday. The rest are sitting at tables enjoying dinner: paneer, tandoori, naan and more.

The international Indian chain, with locations in New Jersey, India, Canada, Nepal and New Zealand, opened its first Kansas City area location this week at 8669 W. 135th St. in Overland Park — the old Smokey’s on the Blvd. BBQ spot.

To celebrate, colorful balloons hung from the rafters of Bikanervala (pronounced Bee-kan-er-wala).

Kapil Jain, the restaurant’s owner, hurried around the dining room, checking on customers and making sure dinner service was running smoothly.

“We were pretty busy yesterday,” he told The Star, as several customers filtered in and out before 6 p.m.

Jain has been recommending customers try the raj kachori, a hollow shell filled with yogurt, chutney, sprouts and potatoes.

In a previous interview with The Star, Jain described the restaurant as “an Indian version of The Cheesecake Factory,” due to its variety of sweets.

Treats include malai gulab jamun (like Indian doughnuts), laddu rose (fruity balls covered in rose petals) and butterscotch rolls.

Lunch and dinner options include the tandoori platter for $15.99 (paneer tikka and tandoori aloo served with butter naan and lentil soup) or the chhole for $12.99 (chickpea curry served with rice).

Also on the menu: a wide variety of chaat (snack or small-bite) options, like samosas or momos (filled dumplings). To wash it down, customers can order Indian sodas or smoothies.

Bikanervala is fast-casual. Its workers wear matching shirts, much as they would at an American fast-food restaurant, and some customers order their food to-go. Entrees are served on trays with plastic forks and spoons.

Manager Arbida Siaghaa said that, so far, customers are happy.

“It’s been good. I’ve been having all kinds of people coming in here, and they love it,” Siaghaa said.

The restaurant is open from 11 a.m. to 10 p.m. daily.

Smokey’s, which opened in the space in 2012, closed in 2021. At the time, the owner told The Star the pandemic was partly to blame.