Sophisticated 6th Ave. restaurant that brought Tacoma national recognition set to close

The Table, the only restaurant in Tacoma that has caught the attention of the national James Beard Awards , will close after service on Saturday, July 27, chef-owner Derek Bray announced over the weekend.

A pop-up dinner and wine sell-off with snacks is possible in the coming weeks, but details are yet to be determined.

“Nothing is more exhausting than writing a goodbye note,” wrote Bray on Saturday . “And believe me, this week has been exhausting.”

The news marks a lamentable end to a thrilling year for the 9-year-old restaurant. In January, Bray was named a regional chef semifinalist in the 2024 James Beard Awards , the first time a Tacoma establishment has earned such an accolade from the prestigious culinary showcase. A highly competitive category with chefs from Seattle, Orcas Island, Honolulu and Juneau, the prize ultimately went to Portland’s Gregory Gourdet of kann. But the honor of being nominated, as they say, is no less remarkable, and its impact on Tacoma — proving that it is possible for a mid-sized city, stuck a short drive from one of America’s best food destinations , to be so worthy — is no less significant in its moment of no-more.

“I’d love if more people came to Tacoma to eat,” Bray said in February, reflecting on the nomination. “If I had a billboard sign, I would say, ‘Find your independent restaurants. Eat at places that are owned by people in Tacoma.’”

Those awards don’t just consider the food but also the connection the business has with its community, its commitment to sustainability and equity. With its hyperseasonal approach and focus on sourcing from local farms to small wine producers, The Table personified that mission arguably better than any other restaurant in Tacoma or Pierce County. (Now I would tag their neighbor, Field Bar and Bottle Shop, to that echelon.)

In 2015, it also challenged Tacoma’s notions of what modern dining could be. “I both refused and thought it was necessary to have a burger on the menu in Tacoma,” joked Bray in an earlier conversation. The kitchen trimmed their finished cuts of meat in-house, so scraps would occasionally find their way into a between-buns special. They also attempted brunch for a spell, but 7-day-a-week dinner sustained the winning formula.

A NEW ERA FOR TACOMA DINING

The menu changed frequently, but the signature braised elk shoulder, enrobed in an ancho-huckleberry cream sauce to be sopped up by grilled sourdough, remained a must-order, as did the ricotta gnocchi in a mornay sauce built with aged white cheddar and “magic” that playfully resembled mac’n’cheese. Salads were textural and well-dressed. Vegetables often dominated the plate, before that was in vogue. Wine was the central beverage — the bar eschewed cocktails while everyone else leaned in. The atmosphere felt sophisticated yet approachable, pared-down yet comfortable.

The July closure appears to be the result of both professional and personal circumstances. Bray did not immediately return a request for comment.

As TNT Diner reported last week, his chef de cuisine Craig Tronset will shift to a new venture with The Table’s longtime sommelier Trevor Hamilton. Hamilton recently sold his partnership stake in the Sixth Avenue restaurant to focus on Corbeau, his new “Franco-Tacoman” eatery and wine bar that will replace Pomodoro in the Proctor District . There, Tronset will lead the kitchen, and Megan Henson will run the cocktail program.

“Derek built something that didn’t exist in Tacoma, and something that Tacoma needed,” said Hamilton this week, who also praised Bray’s dedication to ensuring his staff had a life outside of work. “He was able to give a lot of talent in this town an opportunity.”

Bray and Hamilton opened Incalmo at Museum of Glass in 2022, where the rustic Italian fare was wonderful but, it turned out, not fitting of the location. The timing was also rough. It closed a year later, and the location became a more streamlined cafe, La Finestra .

“Over the last few years I’ve had many ups and downs in the restaurant life,” wrote Bray on Instagram. “The hardest best choice came after the closing of our second restaurant Incalmo. When I chose to be home more with my wife and kids … and again I am choosing the best hard choice. I choose my family over the success or continuation of the restaurant.”

Speaking after the James Beard nod, Bray alluded to the difficulty of the pandemic and its effect on the always-volatile restaurant industry. He and his staff cooked free meals for their peers in 2020 . In addition to supporting the likes of Tacoma Farmers Market’s annual fundraising dinner and a free Thanksgiving meal with the City of University Place, The Table strove to create a great space for its employees.

“That was part of our ethos when we opened the restaurant,” he said, referring also to his wife Holly Bray. “We wanted it to be something in the community where we were doing good work, people always felt welcome and the food was at an excellent level really consistently.”

Amid dozens of comments that flowed into last weekend’s Instagram post, many noted The Table as their top choice for special occasions and for impressing out-of-towners. Guests praised the food, the ambiance and the service, which in my opinion set a new standard for a city that needs more restaurants like it.

THE TABLE TACOMA

▪ 2715 6th Ave., Tacoma, 253-327-1862, thetabletacoma.com

▪ Open 5-9 p.m. through final service on Saturday, July 27