Sendo

Sendo is modeled after the standing sushi counters in Tokyo. And if this were a city without wait lists and high prices, it might even function like one. You’d waltz into their casual walk-in counter in Koreatown, eat some fancy cuts of toro and buttery shrimp, and then leave in less than 30 minutes without spending more than $50. For the most part, you can still accomplish this goal at Sendo, as long as you’re not too hungry and the wait isn’t too long.

On paper, Sendo’s hand roll and sushi sets—the only things offered on the menu—are pretty good deals. Go for the sushi, and you’ll eat bouncy scallops, fatty toro, and vinegary rice sourced from Hokkaido, all for around $30 or $40. Pieces lean on the smaller side and toppings are restrained to a squeeze of lemon here, a dot of yuzu there. You’ll have the option of adding a la carte hand rolls or nigiri at the end of your meal. In our experience, we’ve felt hungry enough after our set to order two extra hand rolls and some nigiri, jacking the price up to around $65. That’s still not bad for a total of 16 pieces, but there are plenty of sub-$100 omakase spots with more exciting selections.

If you’re not bothered by the price, or you’re in the area and want something light-ish, Sendo is a great option for lunch or dinner, in large part because of the speakeasy-esque, quick-service set-up. We walked past the entrance, marked only by a palm-sized sign, a couple of times before noticing it. But once you find the staircase, head up a flight of steps and into the first door to your right. The tiny room is gently lit like an aquarium, with just enough space for a host stand and a 12-seat black marble counter. Chefs stay in continuous motion, palming pre-sliced fish and serving each person two pieces at a time. This pace keeps anyone from lingering too long, as does the lack of booze.

If Sendo is meant to be a secret though, it isn’t a well-kept one. During dinner, there’s usually a 30- to 60-minute wait. Put your name down and head somewhere else in the neighborhood while you wait for a text. If you want a true, Tokyo-style quick stop, you're better of coming for lunch on the weekends instead.

Food Rundown

photo credit: Franceso Sapienza

Sushi Sets

Sendo serves three sushi sets, ranging from $32 to $47. The most expensive set is the best deal, with nine pieces of nigiri, three hand rolls, and one mini kaisendon with chopped toro. For the most part, they stick with crowd-pleasing salmon and tuna cuts, but expect some delightful interludes of buttery shrimp and sea bream. You won’t leave super full without some add-ons. We like the unagi hand rolls from the a la carte menu that they pass out at the end.

Hand Roll Sets

Hand rolls come in sets of three to six, with base prices ranging from $18-$28. You can choose your own rolls from a list of eight, including three luxury options (toro, scallop, and botan ebi prawn) for an extra charge. If you’re here for a quick lunch, the hand rolls are the way to go.