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Tracy Carbone
The last free place on earth: Slab City, California
2023-04-02
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Slab City, Niland CaliforniaPhoto byTracy Carbone
With rising interest rates, looming recession, and ever-increasing house prices, it’s no wonder that homelessness is still an issue throughout our country.
Those who choose to live in RVs, vans, or converted trucks out of necessity or as a life choice, quickly learn campgrounds can be costly, and staying on the side of the road, in a parking lot, or the woods, can be dangerous and illegal. Living “freely” without the chains of convention is never actually free.
Or is it? Turns out there is a place where anyone can live for free, as long as they like. Hundreds of people are doing just that, and have made it a sustainable community where all are welcome. So where is this place and why doesn’t everyone know about it?
Two girls walking on the road to Slab City, CAPhoto byTracy Carbone
Slab City is in Niland, California, about ninety minutes from Palm Springs. Anyone familiar with the area can attest to the fact it’s not a place most would want to live during the summer months as the temperatures from June through September have an average over 100 degrees. The rest of the time though, if you can rig power and shelter, it can be a temperate and beautiful place to spend your time.
Outside of the various RV parks in the general vicinity, that charge fees but include amenities and security, Slab City is free. What it lacks in traditional amenities it makes up for in character, uniqueness, and freedom (in more ways than one).
Slab City residence, Niland CAPhoto byTracy Carbone
Per Wikipedia, “Prior to the United States' official entry into World War II, the United States Marine Corps planned a training ground for field and anti-aircraft artillery units… 631.345 acres, were obtained.” During that time, and until 1956 when it was dismantled, the land had “fully functioning buildings, water, roads, and sewage collections.”
The first settlers to this area were veterans who had worked at the Marine base, “followed later by drifters – then recreational vehicle owners, searching for free camping spots outside Palm Springs. Current residents refer to themselves as Slabbies while tourists are called Normies.”
On October 6, 1961, a quitclaim deed conveying the land to the State of California was issued by the Department of Defense. The deed didn’t contain the restrictions so often found in California agreements. There were no, “recapture clauses or restoration provisions.”
Owl sculpture, East Jesus museum, Slab City, Niland CAPhoto byTracy Carbone
Mostly hidden from the world, this free campground was made popular in 1984 after an article Trailer Life and RV Magazine. Though the San Diego Reader reported no more than 600–700 RVs in 1983, the estimated count in 1988, per a resident, was closer 2000 trailers.
In 2018, Smithsonian magazine stated, "There are clearly people there who don’t want to be found, so there’s something about disappearing, and the desert offers that kind of opportunity."
A drive through Slab City reveals both the weekenders in luxurious RVs, as well as those who have planted roots. The full-time residents embrace their lifestyle, homes, and community as much as anyone in a more traditional situation.
Car Barbie sculpture, East Jesus, Slab City, Niland CAPhoto byTracy Carbone
Deer eating dinner sculpture, East Jesus art museum, Slab City, Niland CAPhoto byTracy Carbone
If you visit, be sure to drive through to the open- air art museum known as East Jesus, created by over 2000 artists over many years. All pieces are made of junk and are a delight to view.
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