Atlanta's Dining Heritage: Joe Dale's to Paschal's - A Retrospective of Iconic Restaurants

The call from a big media editor triggered memories of delicious meals, gregarious hosts and terrifically interesting venues. “What do you remember about Atlanta’s older restaurants? Were any truly distinctive?” she asked. I remembered enough to start a conversation and even surprised myself that some were still around. The idea was to produce a retrospective: Good places to dine in an earlier version of Atlanta, perhaps making the case that the city has enjoyed a rich dining heritage long before today’s boom with the revolving door of restaurant openings and closings.

Mary Mac’s Tea Room-temporarily on hiatus from roof damage-still serves to packed houses with a clientele that on occasion included Jimmy Carter and the Dalai Lama. The Colonnade on Cheshire Bridge holds strong with roots going back several generations. And Petite Violette with a legacy tied to Petite Auberge near Emory University is still serving French cuisine with live performances by the Capital City Opera Company regularly.

An Atlanta landmark restaurant. "Best chicken livers in the South," according to local gourmand Frank Spence.Photo byDown South Today

Who remembers Dale’s Cellar, a first-rate gourmet restaurant in the basement of the Imperial Hotel? The Paradise Room in the state-owned Henry Grady Hotel? Jim Sanders’ Top of Peachtree? Leb's, Herren’s, Emile’s French Café, or Ship Ahoy, all within two blocks of the Rialto and the Balzar Theatre? I can almost taste the chicken pot pie and coconut cake at Rich’s Magnolia Room, which featured a Nathalie Dupree-inspired menu. Yohannan's at Lenox Square specialized in elevated cuisine. For barbecue: Harold's was the place.

French Cuisine occasionally accompanied by performances from cast members of the Capital City Opera Company.Photo byPetite Violette

The Coach and Six was always packed and you could eat your weight in broiled lobster tails at The Crossroads in Midtown. Downtown had standard bearers like The Diplomat, a true supper club. The 70’s were the heyday of Joe Dale’s Cajun House. Sorrento’s served Italian cuisine with live Atlanta jazz by the legendary Roy Mays and the All Stars. Harry’s Steakhouse on Spring Street was a short walk from the Georgia Tech campus. And, of course, Gene & Gabes.

Jim Sanders culinary genius made this restaurant one of Atlanta's finest for years.Photo byDown South Today

Black-owned restaurants were wonderful and thrived even during the sad and tragic days of racial segregation. Paschal’s, Deacon Burton's and Shephard’s specialized in Soul Food, but there were many others.

Paschal's is a cornerstone of Atlanta dining.Photo byDown South Today

These restaurants were almost exclusively locally owned and words like fresh or local sourced weren’t needed. Customers assumed this.

Memorabilia from the restaurant that served "all you can eat" lobster.Photo byDown South Today

Located on Maple Drive in Buckhead during the 1970s, Joe Dale's Cajun House was a popular spot known for its authentic Cajun/Creole cuisine that closely resembled the flavors of the Big Easy. The menu featured a variety of classic dishes such as baked oysters, stuffed flounder, and shrimp remoulade, all prepared with traditional Cajun and Creole spices and techniques.

Patrons experienced a taste of Louisiana right in the heart of Atlanta, enjoying rich and flavorful dishes that transported them to the bayous and swamps of Cajun country. The restaurant's vibrant atmosphere, packed dining area and delicious offerings made it a favorite among those craving a unique dining experience.

The Coach and Six, a midtown mainstay of fine dining.Photo byDown South Today

Caruso's inroduced many Atlanta diners to Italian cuisine, but no Italian restaurant ever equalled Salvatore's across from the Fabulous Fox.

Note: Share some of your favorites.

Herren's served celebrities and locals in an elegant setting. Today, the acclaimed Theatrical Outfit occupies the space.Photo byDown South Today

Baked Stuffed Flounder: A Salute to Joe Dale

Ingredients:

½ cup chopped celery

½ cup chopped green onions with tops

1 clove garlic, minced

¾ cup butter, in all

1½ cups moistened unseasoned croutons

½ pound crabmeat

2 tablespoons chopped parsley

½ pound shrimp, boiled and chopped

1 egg, slightly beaten

salt, pepper, and cayenne pepper to taste

4 medium sized flounder, washed, scaled, with heads removed

Method:

Preheat oven to 375ºF.

Sauté celery, onions, and garlic in ¼ cup butter over low heat. Add bread cubes, shrimp, crabmeat, parsley, and egg. Mix well. Season to taste with salt, black and cayenne pepper. Set aside. Split thick side of flounder lengthwise and crosswise forming a cross; loosen meat from bone to form pocket for stuffing. Melt ¼ cup butter; brush fish well with melted butter, salt, and pepper.

Fill pockets with seafood stuffing mixture. Melt remaining ¼ cup butter in shallow baking pan. Place fish in pan, making sure not to overlap. Cover and bake for 25 minutes, until fish flakes easily with a fork. Remove cover and bake another 5 minutes. Serve at once.

Oysters en Brouchette.Photo byDown South Today

Oysters en Brouchette

Ingredients:

Vegetable Oil 2 Cups Whole Milk 2 Cups All Purpose Flour 12 Thick Slices Smoked Bacon, Cut In Half (24 Half Pieces) 1 Recipe Meuniere Butter 6 Toast Points, For Garnish 36 Large Oysters, Shucked 2 Large Eggs 6 Lemon Wedges, For Garnish

Meuniere Butter

1 Pound Salted Butter 1 Tablespoon Red Wine Vinegar 1 Tablespoon Fresh Lemon Juice

Directions:

Heat the oil to 350° in a large sauté pan, taking care to maintain the temperature. In a separate, medium sauté pan, cook the bacon over medium heat for 3 to 4 minutes to render some of the fat from the meat. The bacon should be lightly browned but still pliable. Drain on paper towels. To assemble the brochettes, skewer one piece of bacon, then two oysters. Repeat twice and add one more piece of bacon for a total of 4 pieces of bacon and 6 oysters on each skewer. Repeat the process for all 6 skewers. Set aside. In a medium bowl, whisk together the eggs and milk to make an egg wash. Place the flour in a shallow baking pan. Dip the skewers into the wash. Allow the excess liquid to drip off. Put the brochettes into the pan of flour and coat heavily. Shake off the excess flour and place the brochettes into the hot oil. Fry the brochettes 4 to 5 minutes, until they are golden and float to the top. Do not over cook the oysters. Remove from the oil to a plate lined with paper towels. Place the brochettes at the centers of 6 appetizer plates. Hold one end of the brochette to the plate. Grasp the other end with a paper towel and slide the skewer out of the brochette.

In a medium saucepan over medium heat, melt the butter, whisking constantly, for 8 to 10 minutes, until the sediment in the butter turns dark brown, almost (but not quite) to the point of burning, and the liquid is a deep golden color.

Remove the pan from the heat and continue to whisk slowly, adding the lemon juice and the vinegar to the browned butter. The sauce will froth until the acids have evaporated. When the frothing subsides, the sauce is complete.

Dab the sauce over the oysters, allowing it to pool at the bottom of the plate. Garnish each dish with a toast point and a lemon wedge.

The Midnight Sun: Elegant gourmet.Photo byDown South Today

Elsie Bianchi's trio entertained diners ar Chateau Fluer De LisPhoto byDown South Today

Oysters Bienville

Ingredients:

1 dozen oysters, shucked, drained and bottom shells reserved

1/4 cup oyster liquor

coarse sea salt, as needed

1/4 cup Panko breadcrumbs

1/2 cup Parmesan cheese, grated

2 strips bacon, finely chopped

1/2 cup shallots, finely chopped

2 tbsp. red peppers, finely chopped

2 tbsp. green peppers, finely chopped

1/3 cup button mushrooms, washed and finely chopped

2 large cloves garlic, pressed

1/8 tsp. Creole seasoning

1 tbsp. butter

1 1/2 tbsp. unbleached all-purpose flour

1/2 cup half-and-half

1/4 cup dry white wine (substitute low-sodium chicken broth)

1/4 lb. shrimp or prawns, peeled, deveined and chopped into small pieces

1/2 tbsp. freshly squeezed lemon juice

2 tbsp. green onions (green parts only), chopped

1 tbsp. parsley, chopped

1 large egg yolk, lightly beaten

1 tsp. mild paprika, or as needed

Directions:

After shucking, put them in a bowl and reserve its liquor in another bowl. Discard the flat top shells and keep the bottom shells as food vessels. Preheat oven to 425ºF and spread coarse sea salt on a large baking sheet; set aside. In a bowl, combine breadcrumbs and Parmesan cheese; stir and set aside.

In a cold skillet, add bacon pieces and turn the heat to medium-high. Fry until almost done, about 4 minutes. Add shallots, peppers and mushrooms. Reduce heat to medium and sauté for 3 minutes. Add garlic and sauté for only 1 minute. Stir in Creole Seasoning Add butter and when melted, add flour; cook for 2 minutes stirring constantly. Stir in half-and-half, wine and reserved oyster liquor. Cook until the mixture thickens or until the sauce coats the back of a spoon, about 4 minutes. Add shrimp, lemon juice, green onions and parsley. Stir well for 1 minute and remove from the heat. Add egg yolk to sauce and stir vigorously until nicely blended; set aside. To assemble, place an oyster in each reserved shell matching the size for each. Spoon the sauce equally among the 12 oysters. Place them onto prepared baking sheet and press the shells down in the salt to secure them. Generously sprinkle breadcrumb cheese mixture on top. Dust lightly with paprika. Transfer to the preheated oven and bake for 10 minutes rotating the pan halfway through. When the top is light brown and the oysters start curling around the edges, remove from the heat and serve immediately.

Oyster Bienville, one of a variety of baked oysters served at Joe Dale's Cajun House.Photo byDown South Today

Doc Lawrence is an Atlanta native.Photo byDown South Today